Let's bring the pundits out...

[drpreposterous]

In Spring, 2018, two tremors will shake my automotive world. My daughter will graduate from the mega-bucks private university that has made me eat Ramen for four years. And the lease on my 2015 Jeep Renegade will end. When the ground stops trembling from those events, I will have $12K stashed by then and will need a daily driver. A C-body or perhaps a A-body will be that car.

Let's get this much out of the way...

Yeah, I know no upgrade will make it as safe as a '98 Civic. Yeah, I know even a solid example that is aggressively undercoated will be toast before long. Yeah, I'm aware of the reliability challenge for a guy who is a dynamite RN but has zero aptitude and experience with a wrench. But look, everyone...I figure the government is going to eventually make us all sit smiley-faced in self-driving cars or go-karts that go nine years on a battery charge and/or get 432 mpg. I had a ball before my kids started college running about (in succession) in a '64 Dart, a '60 Studebaker Lark and a '77 LeBaron. I loathe the Jeep and anything built after 1990. I have seven years to go before retirement (six in Spring, 2018). And I have all of four miles to traverse to the hospital I work at. So, with no further ado, I am tapping your collective experience and wisdom.

I want to find out what would be the first three things you'd do to make it safer and more reliable. I figure on spending enough to get a solid-bodied and solid running number 3 car. Don't mind more doors at all. Probably can't do a 2-door anyway, since that $12K is all I have budgeted to get going, including the initial outlay. I don't get too worked up if originality has gone away like Madonna's virginity. From what I've seen just as a lurker, I already figure on:

1. Converting to disc brakes,
2. Electronic ignition,
3. Better headlghts/3rd brake light (paging Daniel Stern),
4. Boidling out the fuel tank, replacing fuel and brake lines/hoses/etc.
5. Installing shoulder belts, maybe a seat swap for head rests.

You may agree those are essentials.. But what would you consider highly desirable beyond these? If you are so inclined, give me the three things you would do after what I listed. II truly appreciate all responses.

 

[saylor]

1.) front power disc brakes and any needed front end work
2.) MAD nacho ammeter wiring bypass
3.) fire extinguisher

i disagree that electronic ignition would be safer or more reliable.
better headlights = stick them onto a relay
you gonna have to boil th tank on any car that has sat for any length of time. at least flush it.

after 68 you will get shoulder belts. 68 was optional year. pre then is only lap belts. i wouldnt sweat belts unless you are installing harnesses. you gonna have to figure out new mount points, etc, and in a real wreck probably will not hold anyways. besides, the non collapse steering column will be in your chest. or the metal dash. or something else. maybe the triangle window will stab you in the neck. i wouldnt worry about more belts.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Big_John]

First, thanks for your career choice. We had a big discussion about medical care etc. at a picnic we had with my wife's family and the consensus was that male nurses are more empathetic and generally better at their jobs than the females.

OK.. Onto cars. As a wise man once told me, when it comes to old cars, "buy as much car as you can". Buy the best car that you can afford.

If I were you, I would look at the 73 and up New Yorkers. The disc brakes are there... the shoulder belts are there.. the electronic ignition is there. With a $12K budget and a willingness to take a car with more than 2 doors, you can now buy something really nice that is running and driving. So... No need to flush the fuel system or tank. There's a lot of bang for the buck and for $12k... That's not too far away from buying two of them.

 

[cantflip]

In Spring, 2018, two tremors will shake my automotive world. My daughter will graduate from the mega-bucks private university that has made me eat Ramen for four years. And the lease on my 2015 Jeep Renegade will end. When the ground stops trembling from those events, I will have $12K stashed by then and will need a daily driver. A C-body or perhaps a A-body will be that car.

Let's get this much out of the way...

Yeah, I know no upgrade will make it as safe as a '98 Civic. Yeah, I know even a solid example that is aggressively undercoated will be toast before long. Yeah, I'm aware of the reliability challenge for a guy who is a dynamite RN but has zero aptitude and experience with a wrench. But look, everyone...I figure the government is going to eventually make us all sit smiley-faced in self-driving cars or go-karts that go nine years on a battery charge and/or get 432 mpg. I had a ball before my kids started college running about (in succession) in a '64 Dart, a '60 Studebaker Lark, an '82 Volvo 242 GT and a '77 LeBaron. I loathe the Jeep and anything built after 1990. I have seven years to go before retirement (six in Spring, 2018). And I have all of four miles to traverse to the hospital I work at. So, with no further ado, I am tapping your collective experience and wisdom.

I want to find out what would be the first three things you'd do to make it safer and more reliable. I figure on spending enough to get a solid-bodied and solid running number 3 car. Don't mind more doors at all. Probably can't do a 2-door anyway, since that $12K is all I have budgeted to get going, including the initial outlay. I don't get too worked up if originality has gone away like Madonna's virginity. From what I've seen just as a lurker, I already figure on:

1. Converting to disc brakes,
2. Electronic ignition,
3. Better headlghts/3rd brake light (paging Daniel Stern),
4. Boidling out the fuel tank, replacing fuel and brake lines/hoses/etc.
5. Installing shoulder belts, maybe a seat swap for head rests.

You may agree those are essentials.. But what would you consider highly desirable beyond these? If you are so inclined, give me the three things you would do after what I listed. II truly appreciate all responses.

My best thought for a man with your admitted skill level who wants a good driver... connect with @Carmine and buy whatever he has working good, but needs to move for space.

There are a number of great guys in reasonable distance from you.

 

[live4theking]

I don't know that I would do the third brake light. I would upgrade the brake lights to LED's which would make you more visible. You really did cover the basics for what my first three points of maintenance would be.

My one thing when purchasing would be to avoid any car with ATC.

 

[drpreposterous]

I don't know that I would do the third brake light. I would upgrade the brake lights to LED's which would make you more visible. You really did cover the basics for what my first three points of maintenance would be.

My one thing when purchasing would be to avoid any car with ATC.

Thanks, King. BTW, does that stand for Automatic Temp Control?

 

[Davea Lux]

Here are a couple of other things to think about. From 1970 on, most 383 or 440 cars will have disc brakes as standard. Starting in 1973, factory electronic ignition and disc brakes became standard on most models. Shoulder and lap belts were standard starting about 1970, but they were the split type belts. The standard grouped shoulder and lap belts started about 1973. Avoid anything that has the factory lean burn electronic ignition. It was unreliable at best and is now all but impossible to find re-man units. Most any after market Quartz or other high intensity headlights that will fit the factory enclosures are better than the factory units. Factory headlights were not all that bad if properly adjusted unless you are planning to tool around the Desert at 100mph after dark. You might want to consider a new fuel tank if the factory unit has rusted as this tends to be an unending problem with trashed fuel pumps and clogged filters, especially if you plan to use ethanol blend fuels. Replacing the factory fuel pump and rubber fuel lines is a good idea as these do not play well with ethanol blend fuel. You are talking about vehicles that are now 40 plus years old. Replace all of the brake hoses, replace or rebuild the disc brake calipers and rear wheel cylinders. A new or rebuilt master cylinder is also a must. Run a vacuum leak check on the power brake booster, if in doubt have it rebuilt. Replace the vacuum hose to the brake booster as well. Have the front end inspected. At 40 plus years old, most of the rubber parts are likely to be hard as a rock and in need of replacement especially the strut rod and stabilizer bushings, upper and lower control arm bushings also go south with age. Same is true for ball joints and tie rod ends. Rubber rear spring bushings should also be checked. A set of new shocks front and rear is a good thing to do to improve driving quality. A fresh set of radiator and heater hoses is also a good idea. Have the transmission and rear end serviced to get rid of old, degraded oil.

If you do not do your own wrench work, all of this is going to cost you. Find a rust free western or southern car to start with so your investment will last.

Dave

 

[drpreposterous]

Here are a couple of other things to think about. From 1970 on, most 383 or 440 cars will have disc brakes as standard. Starting in 1973, factory electronic ignition and disc brakes became standard on most models. Shoulder and lap belts were standard starting about 1970, but they were the split type belts. The standard grouped shoulder and lap belts started about 1973. Avoid anything that has the factory lean burn electronic ignition. It was unreliable at best and is now all but impossible to find re-man units. Most any after market Quartz or other high intensity headlights that will fit the factory enclosures are better than the factory units. Factory headlights were not all that bad if properly adjusted unless you are planning to tool around the Desert at 100mph after dark. You might want to consider a new fuel tank if the factory unit has rusted as this tends to be an unending problem with trashed fuel pumps and clogged filters, especially if you plan to use ethanol blend fuels. Replacing the factory fuel pump and rubber fuel lines is a good idea as these do not play well with ethanol blend fuel. You are talking about vehicles that are now 40 plus years old. Replace all of the brake hoses, replace or rebuild the disc brake calipers and rear wheel cylinders. A new or rebuilt master cylinder is also a must. Run a vacuum leak check on the power brake booster, if in doubt have it rebuilt. Replace the vacuum hose to the brake booster as well. Have the front end inspected. At 40 plus years old, most of the rubber parts are likely to be hard as a rock and in need of replacement especially the strut rod and stabilizer bushings, upper and lower control arm bushings also go south with age. Same is true for ball joints and tie rod ends. Rubber rear spring bushings should also be checked. A set of new shocks front and rear is a good thing to do to improve driving quality. A fresh set of radiator and heater hoses is also a good idea. Have the transmission and rear end serviced to get rid of old, degraded oil.

Dave

Good nuggets, Dave. Thanks! I am a bit leery of the 4-piston discs. Dunno if that's for a good reason. I thought Lean Burn didn't start till late 70s?

 

[65sporty]

Maybe I am being too optimistic but with 12k to spend you should be able to find a very nice driver C-body. You just need to decide what you really like. Are you going to look in or out of state? Or are you open to all options?
Good luck with your search and I hope we can help

 

[Davea Lux]

Good nuggets, Dave. Thanks! I am a bit leery of the 4-piston discs. Dunno if that's for a good reason. I thought Lean Burn didn't start till late 70s?

Started in 1976 or 77 with the lean burn, I had a 77, total POS. Was not sure what ranges you are considering.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

Good nuggets, Dave. Thanks! I am a bit leery of the 4-piston discs. Dunno if that's for a good reason. I thought Lean Burn didn't start till late 70s?

The 4 piston calipers were nice when they worked, but they were a pain in the nether regions to rebuild and had problems with uneven pad wear. I would stick with single piston calipers if for no other reason, they are easy to work on.

Dave

 

[drpreposterous]

Maybe I am being too optimistic but with 12k to spend you should be able to find a very nice driver C-body. You just need to decide what you really like. Are you going to look in or out of state? Or are you open to all options?
Good luck with your search and I hope we can help

Thanks, Sporty!
I'm hoping you can, too. I am open to all options (out of state, especially if it's a forum member's car). When I first came to the forum I had a marked preference for the cars I grew up with: Dad had a '59 Savoy, then a '65 New Yorker, then a '74 Dart (ah, austerity) and a '77 Volare before he turned away from domestics. But going through the forum, I've really come to like Fusies as much as slabs. Not too familiar with Formals, yet. And FL is out of reach price wise.

 

[mdh157]

buy this:
For Sale - Chrysler New yorker brougham - $4500

or this:
For Sale - 1978 Chrysler Newport -LOADED- EXCELLENT - $5500

 

[Turboomni]

I may be totally wrong but depending on your driving style and if you don't drive alot on highways I have found my 4 corner drum brakes good enough for tooling around in my big 69 fury. I don't work on cars much anymore but had the whole brake system rebuilt. They work fine. Also I find a points distributor very good for my kind of driving on my 440. My 69 has shoulder belts too from the factory but I don't use them,,just the lap belts. I just cruise around in this old girl. I am in no hurry when I drive her.

 

[drpreposterous]

I may be totally wrong but depending on your driving style and if you don't drive alot on highways I have found my 4 corner drum brakes good enough for tooling around in my big 69 fury. I don't work on cars much anymore but had the whole brake system rebuilt. They work fine. Also I find a points distributor very good for my kind of driving on my 440. My 69 has shoulder belts too from the factory but I don't use them,,just the lap belts. I just cruise around in this old girl. I am in no hurry when I drive her.

You know, that's actually pretty encouraging. I don't usually hit freeways, and being a nurse means no rush hour driving. Michigan's drivers are tame compared to other states. I just might be able to get away with well maintained drums...

 

[live4theking]

Thanks, King. BTW, does that stand for Automatic Temp Control?

Yes, that is exactly what I was referring to.

 

[Turboomni]

You know, that's actually pretty encouraging. I don't usually hit freeways, and being a nurse means no rush hour driving. Michigan's drivers are tame compared to other states. I just might be able to get away with well maintained drums...

I am just speaking from my own experience and your reply of your possible driving style which is not performance oriented like me indicates a wider range of possible cars that will float your boat stock. C body enthusiasts many times don't realize how good we got it still in this day and age of the internet.
I feel still it is a buyer's market on C bodies compared to other cars of this era ,,even when they[C body enthusiasts] balk at the price which is usually under 12,000.00. In the classic car market ,this is absolute peanuts...Check out Impala prices lately?? If you do your homework a rust free beautiful C body could be at your door for much less than any other USA car maker of that time. You will need a good mechanic but in Michigan I can't see that as a problem.
Best of luck to you.

 

[Wollfen]

If I had 12K to burn I would go out and buy myself a 72 or 73 Imperial loaded to the hilt and in very good condition. If I was lucky I would have money to spare too. The cars aren't that expensive to find in very good condition. Plus all the things you want minus the third light will already be in it. Just ask Paul Amato or Stan to find one for you!

 

[detmatt]

Third break light?? What are you crazy???
I will say it over and over, I love my Budd brakes. I didn't have any problems before the one caliper started to leak and now that I've had the calipers rebuilt and have new rotors and pads they are outstanding performers.
I do agree that drum brakes can be fine for the kind of driving that we do these days but not on a car that's pushing 5K lbs..
It's time you came by to go for an Imperial ride.

 

[detmatt]

Oh yeah, and shoulder harness? Pffft.