oliver
Senior Member
Has anyone here used Black Star rust converter and if so, what are your impressions? Thanks!
Rust converter
- Thread starter oliver
- Start date
3C's & a D?
Senior Member
Never used that exact product however I'm willing to bet it's the same as Por 15 or any other rust converter, which is a certain type of acid and quite effective.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
I'm not trying to be picky but I believe that POR15 is a rust encapusulator , not a converter...
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Actually their (POR15) metal prep is the rust converter.
Their metal prep is a mild acid. It etches the metal and will remove surface rust, but it doesn't convert it. It's also supposed to leave a zinc-phosphate coating. It's pretty much like any other bare metal surface prep. Like other acids, leave it on there long enough and it will dissolve the rust.
The POR-15 does encapsulate rust. I've used it and it's good stuff if used correctly.
If the part is small enough, soaking it in vinegar for a couple days will remove all the rust. Some guys use molasses and some use electrolysis to remove rust. It all works. I like the vinegar myself.
To the OP, I've never used that product, but it's probably as good as any of the others out there.
bulldogchesty
Senior Member
POR-15 sucks getting off your hands. It has to wear off. Yes, I did have gloves on.
67Monaco
Go Woke, Go Broke.
Pretty sure that's what a rust converter is. Phosphoric acid. That's the phosphate black color on the metal is when it's washed off. Metal Prep, Ospho, Concrete etch, Naval Jelly, yada yada, all pretty much the same thing. Only difference between them is concentration and branding.
bluefury361
Old Man with a Hat
This is what I'm using on Virgil.
Rust converters are chemical solutions or primers that can be applied directly to an iron or iron alloy surface to convert iron oxides (rust) into a protective chemical barrier. These compounds interact with iron oxides, especially iron(III) oxide, converting them into an adherent black layer that is more resistant to moisture and protects the surface from further corrosion.
Commercial rust converters are water-based and contain two primary active ingredients: Tannic acid and an organic polymer. Tannic acid chemically converts the reddish iron oxides into bluish-black ferric tannate, a more stable material. The second active ingredient is an organic solvent such as 2-Butoxyethanol (ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, trade name butyl cellosolve) that acts as a wetting agent and provides a protective primer layer in conjunction with an organic polymer emulsion.[citation needed] Some rust converters may contain additional acids to speed up the chemical reaction by lowering the pH of the solution. A common example is phosphoric acid, which additionally converts some iron oxide into an inert layer of ferric phosphate
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I prefer to use Ospho to convert the rust first and then paint with Rustoleum or something similar.
Actually, THE BEST paint for this is called Insl-X but it's impossible to find locally.
By using the converter-only product, you can be assured that with multiple applications ALL the rust is converted before painting.
Actually, THE BEST paint for this is called Insl-X but it's impossible to find locally.
By using the converter-only product, you can be assured that with multiple applications ALL the rust is converted before painting.
Last edited:
oliver
Senior Member
Thank you for the info. Is this product water thin? I'm thinking about spraying some inside rockers and rear quarters as a rust prevention measure.
Black Star sells for $85 a gallon; this one is more affordable.
Similar threads
