1966 new yorker sway bar linkage

chrisgriffin

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So yesterday one of the front sway bar links broke causing the sway bar to puncture the oil filter ! barely made it home on just over a quart or so. wallowing through google and ebay is a nightmare of autofill crap of non specific parts. Anyone have a line on one or a pair ? think the bushings are fine.
This is the car that was hit in March. Just back from paint and will be posting pics next week !
thx, chris
 
Ok just one :)
IMG_3746.JPG
 
i gotta learn to put mopar in the search instead of chrysler :-(
yes the nos one seems to be it if 67 = 66 too
which it prob is...thanks !
 
If these don't work for you, I still have my original '66 sway bar. I switched it out because I couldn't find the correct bushing.
 
I agree, a FF bar is a *HUGE* improvement, both in size and in more robust (meaning, more responsive) mounting hardware.

If you can afford the $109 for that McQuay kit Big John posted, just put that toward a FF bar instead.
 
I bought the nos part,this car is close to done. keeping it simple. I've window motors to get out to replace the clutches. I am unsure how to extract them yet. need my fingers.
My 66 newport should have been torn down in the spring but for this March accident of the new yorker but I have a body restore, paint and a huge amount of new knowlege. these cars are perfect, but everyone here knows that :)
Coming to terms that I will never get to the 67 Sport Fury III which I've driven for 20 years and will be listing it here first. 6.5k seems reasonable for an unrestored southern car.
 
So the 1966's are welded around the bushing and may not even slip off the sway bar as the ends are bigger. If anyone wants this NOS 67 link for my $40 here it is :)
the FA1672 kit seems to be the smartest money.
Napa has the RPC18110 for $40 X2 but I'm unsure of the fit.

For now I've removed the sway bar as I destroyed another oil filter in the quest.
 
How did the bar move that much? My bushings were shot at the ends and at the frame brackets, hut it didn't move around that much, or did the actual metal piece break. I read this when you posted Thursday but didn't catch that part.
 
dunno, there is about an inch plus of free space. bushings were ok n tight. think it flops up n down as link broken is closest to filter.
I guess my suspension education is about to begin.
 
If the upper donut bushings at the frame bracket are shot also it might allow the bar to move that much, evidently something hit your filter.

Last I knew the original square bushings were still at the parts store, but they cannot install back into the factory bracket, you just can't mash the lip-edge thru the bracket with the bar running thru it, and if you try to install the bushing in the bracket and then poke the bar thru, the swaged end of the bar is too big.

The old trick is to drill out the 2 spotwelds on the bracket where the square bushing goes, put the bushing on the bar, nudge it into the bracket, and bolt that flap of bracket back on. Cheap and easy - as easy as drilling thru a spotweld, anyway.
 
exactly. we ended up welding the shaft back on to the bracket/bushing on the sway bar. quickly as to not melt the bushing :)
Now we see how long that lasts.
 
So the 1966's are welded around the bushing and may not even slip off the sway bar as the ends are bigger. If anyone wants this NOS 67 link for my $40 here it is :)
the FA1672 kit seems to be the smartest money.
Napa has the RPC18110 for $40 X2 but I'm unsure of the fit.

For now I've removed the sway bar as I destroyed another oil filter in the quest.
Chris-
This just happened to me yesterday. Broken link under radiator. I bought the FA1672 kit. Easy to do?

Dan Plotkin
 
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