Fusible link questions

Not sure where this purist stuff is coming from. I do like to keep it as original as possible, but ordered the fusible link on Amazon prime for $7. They didn't have 14 gauge fusible links at local auto parts stores. No wonder Amazon is taking over the world.
 
Oh my critiques of "originality purism" are mostly theoretical, though you can see how our admittedly antique vehicles are being bought up a bit here and there and put out of common reach. I'm glad you were able to find the link on Amazon. I had to use them 20 yrs ago to replace a broken steering arm on my 1959 IH Travellall. NOBODY ELSE had one, and what I got came from Toronto, Ontario.

Yes, Amazon, and Walmart are leading the crapitalist charge to ELIMINATE HIRED HUMAN HELP! Those with $$ can then happily CONSUME what the rest of us will PRODUCE IN PRISON LABOR CAMPS. God-willing, maybe Chump will get the U.$ into some catastrophic military defeat that will enable the overthrow of the regime before the pigs get their way in this....
 
Question - unless you are concerned with originality why not replace the fusible link with a blade fuse set-up?
 
AdamH said:
Question - unless you are concerned with originality why not replace the fusible link with a blade fuse set-up?
Click to expand...
Not a good idea, a fusible link is a really "slow" blow and is sized to protect the wiring harness, not the loads. A blade fuse is designed to protect a load, ie your radio.If a fault in the radio occurs, the fast acting blade fuse will blow hopefully before your radio cooks. The fusible link has to be much slower such that it will melt with a continuous fault but it won't react to short term heavier loads. For example your monster amplifier, when it runs, it only draws say 10amp, but on startup it charges a bunch of big capacitors with a surge current of 30amps. In this case a blade would blow, but the fusible link wouldn't. Does that help or just make it worse?
 
Fury440 said:
Not a good idea, a fusible link is a really "slow" blow and is sized to protect the wiring harness, not the loads. A blade fuse is designed to protect a load, ie your radio.If a fault in the radio occurs, the fast acting blade fuse will blow hopefully before your radio cooks. The fusible link has to be much slower such that it will melt with a continuous fault but it won't react to short term heavier loads.
Click to expand...

^^^This^^^
 
Fury440 said:
Not a good idea, a fusible link is a really "slow" blow and is sized to protect the wiring harness, not the loads. A blade fuse is designed to protect a load, ie your radio.If a fault in the radio occurs, the fast acting blade fuse will blow hopefully before your radio cooks. The fusible link has to be much slower such that it will melt with a continuous fault but it won't react to short term heavier loads. For example your monster amplifier, when it runs, it only draws say 10amp, but on startup it charges a bunch of big capacitors with a surge current of 30amps. In this case a blade would blow, but the fusible link wouldn't. Does that help or just make it worse?
Click to expand...

I understand the fundamentals of a fusible link and agree with what you shared. However while I do agree a blade fuse set-up will blow before a fusible link will I value the ability to quickly, easily, and cheaply replace a blade fuse versus a link. Because of this I don't mind the nuisance. I converted mine a week after I purchased the car utilizing the correct size wire and fuse and haven't looked back. As long as the fuse and new wire harness/socket is within tolerances of the factory wiring I see no safety issues. I carry plenty of extra fuses and also know I can pick one up at almost any gas station, Wal-Mart, auto-parts store if needed.
 
I did have a 1992 Grand Caravan I replaced the cooling fan fusible link with a 30 amp blade fuse after the third time the fan motor shorted out and burned up the liink.
 
Jeff said:
I didn't disagree or ignore what you said. It's just that the NOS parts and the parts manual don't identify the gauge. I think I need a # 14 fusible link, but that information is not given for the parts. How do you know if the one pictured is a 12 or a 14? My guess is part number 2889419 is a 14 and part number 2822692 is a 12. That's why I said I should avoid 2822692.
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Fusible links normally come in colors to identify them. I use #8 AWG from my alternator to the battery with #12 AWG fusible link in light blue, the standard color. If you stick w #10 AWG, get a 14 ga fusible link. You can buy fusible link wire in a roll. A 10 ft roll runs from as little as $3 to $10, depending on who you buy from. Most Mopar links were 6 inches of insulation with 1/2" of conductor exposed on each end, crimped by the factory into their female slide connectors. I make my own links out of the right wire. THAT is an important point, use ONLY fusible link wire of the proper size. You can solder and crimp the connector onto the link, then use shrink wrap to protect any bare conductor, making a professional grade link.

For heavy loads, fusible links are the BEST overcurrent protection. I've used breakers and slo-blow fuses to no avail for that run from the battery to your starter relay. Don't waste your money or time on such. For pennies, you can make a good link which should serve you for a long time.
 
I see they have the usual 10 ft rolls for about $9-10, depending on gauge. That's the way to get the stuff. Then, make your own.
 
Big_John said:
The fusible link needs to be 4 gauge numbers smaller than the wire you are protecting. Example #10 wire needs a #14 fusible link. It also needs to be 9" long maximum.
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Gerald Morris said:
Do as I do. Buy yourself a small SPOOL of fusible link wire in the size(s) you need. I use #12 with my 60A alternator, which I've wired in #8 AWG from the alternator charging post to the fusible link, cut to 6" under insulation, + an additional .5" stripped at each end for termination.
Click to expand...
@Big_John @Gerald Morris
I'm going to be bypassing my amp gauge in the next few days.

So, I'm a curious cat and would like to know why the two lengths were mention. 9" maximum? Or the 7" recommendation. I have a guess in regards to the max length, but would like to know. What was available locally was a 10' spool of fusible link. Looking at the one on my 68 it seems to be in the area of about 6".
 
live4theking said:
@Big_John @Gerald Morris
I'm going to be bypassing my amp gauge in the next few days.

So, I'm a curious cat and would like to know why the two lengths were mention. 9" maximum? Or the 7" recommendation. I have a guess in regards to the max length, but would like to know. What was available locally was a 10' spool of fusible link. Looking at the one on my 68 it seems to be in the area of about 6".
Click to expand...
I don't think it matters a lot, but the 7" length will work just fine.
 
live4theking said:
@Big_John @Gerald Morris
I'm going to be bypassing my amp gauge in the next few days.

So, I'm a curious cat and would like to know why the two lengths were mention. 9" maximum? Or the 7" recommendation. I have a guess in regards to the max length, but would like to know. What was available locally was a 10' spool of fusible link. Looking at the one on my 68 it seems to be in the area of about 6".
Click to expand...

Cut it at 7", strip 1/2 inch from each end, giving yourself 6" insulated conductor, and use what you need of the bared ends, trimming excess. I buy my fusible link wire in the 10' spools too and that's the only way I will. I tin the ends to keep the strands together and insert one end into a ring terminal usually, then make a mechanical joint into a split bolt or even a Scotchlok wire nut when joining it to the 2 sizes larger conductor its protecting.

I would hesitate to go as far as 9" in length, given the higher resistance of a conductor 2 sizes lower than the standard ampacity which is supposed to be protected by the fusible link. Longer links will in fact melt SOONER than shorter ones, given their higher resistance.

I rejoice in knowing you're bypassing that amp gauge! Be very careful of conductor lengths if you run any in parallel as major current sources. You shouldn't need to. I also re-wired the welded junction Mopar used, although if permanence is desired, that's a good way to attain it. I like almost all my junctions to be readily disassemble-able as I oft have cause to modify circuits. Ma Par didn't foresee most folks keeping their wares for 5 decades, so.....

Best Wishes!
 
I just rewired a 67 GTX got all my parts from classic Industries it was perfect fit no problems I was blown away now every thing works perfectly
 
Just read through the whole post and the part about getting a extra fusible link: it's one of those 'Pocket Pulls' when your leaning into a engine bay at the junkyard that you grab and keep around. On my first PK21 I kept one in the glove box for awhile but in a car clean out (prob after I rolled it :eek:) it was never transferred to my next PK21. I had plenty as I thought that they would be a item that I would use is servicing vehicles, nope can't remember ever having to replace one even on (I think) my 68 Fury III that had the bulkhead meltdown to which I just ran a wire through the bulkhead replacing the toasted spade connectors with fresh wire and soldered connections. I feel for you guys with 50 year old cars that have who knows what mickey mouse messing with them.

:thumbsup:

(edit) oh and HOSE!
 
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