Ignition wire order on distributor cap

[Zymurgy]

I'm doing a little tune-up before attempting to start my car. I have a 383 in a 1966 300. I pulled the ignition wires thinking I marked them well but the greasy wires and the sharpie marker didn't work out that well.

I have a back-up plan because a have a service manual, however I want to clarify the wiring schematic.

They have the distributor cap numbered with 9 o'clock as 1 and going counterclockwise around the cap 2, 7(bottom), 5, 6, 3, 4(top), 8.
The corresponding numbers are spark plugs left bank 1, 3, 5, 7.
The right bank is 2, 4, 6, 8.

Here is where I need the clarification, I know the left side is the driver's side, but does the spark plug numbering start at the firewall on each side?

 

[commando1]

#1 is driver's side at the front.
#2 is pass. side at the front.
#7 is driver's side back of the engine.

(Sent using Forum Runner)

 

[Zymurgy]

#1 is driver's side at the front.
#2 is pass. side at the front.
#7 is driver's side back of the engine.

(Sent using Forum Runner)

Thanks again Stan. I am glad I asked I had it backwards.

Mike

 

[Newp]

They have the distributor cap numbered with 9 o'clock as 1 and going counterclockwise around the cap 2, 7(bottom), 5, 6, 3, 4(top), 8. [/QUOTE]


No. 1 on a Big Block is at the 4/5 o'clock position.( no. 1 being the first wire terminal clockwise of the cap hold down strap) ( radiator side of the cap) and the wires go counter clockwise 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.

 

[Zymurgy]

They have the distributor cap numbered with 9 o'clock as 1 and going counterclockwise around the cap 2, 7(bottom), 5, 6, 3, 4(top), 8.

No. 1 on a Big Block is at the 4/5 o'clock position.( no. 1 being the first wire terminal clockwise of the cap hold down strap) ( radiator side of the cap) and the wires go counter clockwise 1 8 4 3 6 5 7 2.[/QUOTE]

Thanks I didn't have that right either.

 

[commando1]

A pic is worth a 1000...

 

[has2bmopar]

A pic is worth a 1000...

Stan is a huge help around here, always finding a relevant attachment. ....:reading:

 

[polara71]

He is a huge help as a retired teamster he has the time and is excellent with pictures

 

[1978 NYB]

He is a huge help as a retired teamster he has the time and is excellent with pictures

Roger that!

An IT proficent retired Teamster!

:sFl_america2:

 

[commando1]

An IT proficent retired Teamster...

...often mistaken for Brad Pitt.

 

[1978 NYB]

...often mistaken for brad pitt.

ok!!!!!!!.............lol!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Haz]

I have a curly one. I drove my cay into my shed to change leaking water pump. After that and couple of other things. I lifted the dizzy cap and noted the rotor had been hitting/rubbing the base of the brass posts, no sign of the usual arcing/pitting you should see on the vertical face of the post. I checked to ensure rotor was seated correctly and cap was seating onto base. All correct. Logic suggests the rotor or cap had been replaced and the dizzy was a "bitsa". I ordered new dizzy. I drew a birdseye view of the dizzy showing position of clips, position tag and each post. I then traced each lead from the cylinder (which also have lead numbers on them) to the post connected to and noted onto diagram. Using clockface as follows
1) Clip with position tag 10-11 o'clock (rear of dizzy)
2)Other clip 4-5 o'clock (nearest radiator)
cylinder leads as follows;
1@ 10 o'clock, 8@ 8 o'clock, 4@ 6-7 o'clock, 3@ 5 o'clock, 6@ 4 o'clock, 5@ 2oclock, 7@ 1 o'clock, 2 @ 11 o'clock.

The lead positions appear to be approx. 120 degrees out of wack. How is it even running?
Do I just mimic the existing setup?