Wont Run #%*??

Dodgy Dick

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Took my 69 Dodge Phoenix 318 ( ACA 69 Fury 111) out for a Mothers Day run, ran beautifully but after our enjoyable creek side picnic it didn't want to go home!
Started up fine but wouldn't run, after many try's had to have it towed home.
It was not low on fuel but I haven't looked under the bonnet yet, any clues what to look for?
 
Ballast_Resistor.jpg
 
Typically it will act like its going to start and you release the key to run position and it dies. There is a inexpensive tool out there that is attached onto the plug wire, crank it and the LED light shows if a spark problem or not. It will hold the light for like 30 seconds after you stop cranking. For me being alone it has helped a lot. Remember spark or fuel typically is the problem. Start simple and go from there.
 
Another possibility is the condenser, if you still have points on your car. Especially if you changed it recently, the crap from China is crap. I had 2 fail in a relatively short period of time, totally different issues, one wouldn't start and the other ran like total crap.
 
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You can test the resister simply with a test light. The test light will glow brightly at the input end and about half as bright at the output end. As long as you get a lit test light at both ends, the resister is working. You can also use a multi-meter to do the same test, you should be getting at least 12.6 volts on the input side and something close to half that on the output end. FSM has the exact number if you want to look it up.

Next use the multi-meter to test for excessive point resistance. Often badly corroded points will start a car but the high resistance fails to fire the coil once the voltage drops after the key is moved to the run position.

Dave
 
Thanks Guys I have ordered a new Ballast resistor and its on its way. Now I may as well replace coil condenser, what part number is ok please !
 
Thanks Guys I have ordered a new Ballast resistor and its on its way. Now I may as well replace coil condenser, what part number is ok please !

You need to order the points and condenser that are specific to your application. Each manufacturer will have their own part number for these items. As long as you purchase high quality items, they should work fine. Avoid the crap made in China, Taiwan or Brazil.

Dave
 
Here Down Under parts for Yankee cars aren't all that common, I have checked two specialist Chrysler outlets but neither stock an ignition condenser. I have spotted an AL 118 and a AL 115 which are supposed to be Ok,,,But??? is there a Chrysler part Number which I can X reference? A reminder my car is a 1969 Fury 111, I.E Aussie Dodge Phoenix auto with a 318 Ci In.
Rich
 
Here Down Under parts for Yankee cars aren't all that common, I have checked two specialist Chrysler outlets but neither stock an ignition condenser. I have spotted an AL 118 and a AL 115 which are supposed to be Ok,,,But??? is there a Chrysler part Number which I can X reference? A reminder my car is a 1969 Fury 111, I.E Aussie Dodge Phoenix auto with a 318 Ci In.
Rich



www.mymopar.com has the parts manual with the part numbers. This is a free download. Look in the tools/reference section, it will take some digging but the numbers are there.

Dave
 
Sheeesh I've been throwing them out! Not worth my time to sell them.

You could put a Pertronics point eliminator in there too. Never have to do the points again. Just make sure you wire it correctly.

Other things to look at is the Carb needle and seat, fuel pump and possible plugged fuel line. You can also do a quick test on the ballast by jumping across the two poles with a wire with the power plugs on, and trying to start it. Don't leave it on long, it will hurt the coil. A paper clip will work.
 
I have nos delco points and condenser sets if needed X2 the new condenser's they have a 50/50 fail rate when I test them hot.
 
Definitely take Halifaxhops up on his offer for NOS. Your best bet if you're keeping your points. I had a member here send me NOS set. Haven't had any problems since, and I never did install my electronic ignition I bought earlier.
 
Could be the ignition coil too. If you don't have a spare coil I would get one.
 
Thanks Guys I have ordered a new Ballast resistor and its on its way. Now I may as well replace coil condenser, what part number is ok please !

The condenser you see bolted to the coil mount is for radio interference; it is not the condenser associated with the points. That condenser is mounted under the distributor cap near the points. That Halifax guy (member here) has the the points / condenser set you need.

Also, is the coil on your car original or has it been replaced? Some aftermarket coils are also crap; they die when they get hot. An old original coil might do the same.
 
Old coils are the best all of the new condensors are junk with the exception of blue streek and accel. A ignition coil is a condenser also. Easy to check with a ohm meter, Have not seen anyone have the radio one short out yet. If it opens it will just add engine noise (ignition) to the radio.
 
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