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SF-66TC

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To all you Mopar Motorheads and that includes you Commando1 LOL!

I have -

  1. Stock 383 275 hp with 2-barrel carb came with pops '66TC
  2. Pops swapped out the 2-barrel with a 4-barrel Carter Carb
  3. I'm replacing the Timing Chain and since I've got things apart I'm THINKING of switching to an Edelbrock intake and some decent carb.
Question: Which Edelbrock & What Carb?
Any benefit to this or should I just leave well enough alone?

Thanks for your expert advice
 
600 CFM Eddy repop AVS with T-6 manifold. Eddy also makes a later version of the Tarantula manifold, I believe they call it the Tarantula 2. Might want to consider going to a better camshaft while you have it apart. If the car already has a stock type AVS carb that is rebuildable, I would use that.

Dave
 
Easy peasy...

PicsArt_05-18-07.47.20.jpg
 
I have always liked the orientation of the Tarantula and Torker intakes, of more equal cyl-to-cyl mixture distribution. BUT you also get the issues related to single-plane vs dual-plane intakes with them. Like #7 cyl firing right after #5 cyl and allegedly getting a little less mixture as a result (as they pull from the same area of the plenum). Dual planes don't have that issue, or to the same extent.

For the stock rpm range, I'd be inclined toward the normal Edelbrock dual plane Performer intake. Carb would be between a 625cfm AVS or a (approx.) 600cfm STREET Demon (which can be had with a phenolic float bowl for that nostalgie ThermoQuad look, but without it being a spreadbore carb.

It would be nice to upgrade the cam to later 383 4bbl specs, BUT the old 252 degree cam (383/270 2bbl in '66) was the same cam specs as the Sport Fury 350 2x4bbl eng in '58. If it's the later lower compression '71 383 2bbl (with the Holley 2210 2bbl rather than the earlier Carter BBD or Stromberg WWC-3), it's already got the 256/260 383 4bbl cam from '66+. Might be neater to add a set of HP exhaust manifolds and 2.50 dual exhaust with '72 Imperial mufflers (same flow as the OEM Street Hemi muffler, but in the larger C-body size, with 2.50 pipe).

There are some better and newer cam profiles out there, but you'd still be in the same basic duration area with them. Assymetrical lobe shapes can have "more area under the lift curve" for more power, but that's your decision of spending money for not a huge power increase (over the stock cam) in a street vehicle. The 440HP cam might be a decent option, though, just depends upon the weight of the vehicle, the rear axle ratio, etc. Got to consider the COMPLETE package for the best results. Better to have more torque and "highway gears" than the "joy" of a 5800rpm power peak with lower rear gears to make THAT work.

Your decision . . .

CBODY67
 
Just throwing this out there. If you are not making any other modifications and are running the stock log manifolds I am not sure that your performance is going to improve noticeably by changing the intake. If we are talking about a stock '66 383 you need to keep in mind that it has the small exhaust valve closed chamber heads. I can see changing the carb to a newer, more reliable carb with an electric choke but don't see it being worthwhile to spend the money on an intake without freeing up the exhaust flow. You don't say whether or not you have a single or dual exhaust system on the car or what rear gear ratio you have. This information would be helpful to have for anyone to make recommendations as would knowing what your goal is.
 
Looking at the combo posted by Commando1 you'd be wasting a lot of cash to stay in the past, with all the issues from the past. On Summit the manifold lists for $524.95 and the recommended carb ( thunder AVS) $466.95 for a grand total of $991.90. Throw in a new cam, lifters and push rods and your crowding $1400. A FiTech Go EFI kit is $995 and in in tank pump fro Tanks Inc is $200. With EFI you're shooting for the perfect Air/Fuel ratio at any RPM so unlike a carb you don't have to match CFM. These units supply air and fuel up to 600HP so you can take them forward if you hop up the engine. No choke, jets, vacuum secondaries, choke heaters, floats etc. Keep everything you now have and go EFI and feel the kick in your pants instantly.
 
600 CFM Eddy repop AVS with T-6 manifold. Eddy also makes a later version of the Tarantula manifold, I believe they call it the Tarantula 2. Might want to consider going to a better camshaft while you have it apart. If the car already has a stock type AVS carb that is rebuildable, I would use that.

Dave
Thanks for your input Dave - my carb is a Carter C4-AFB 3611S and it's been rebuilt.

2015-11-11 10.44.37.jpg
 
I have always liked the orientation of the Tarantula and Torker intakes, of more equal cyl-to-cyl mixture distribution. BUT you also get the issues related to single-plane vs dual-plane intakes with them. Like #7 cyl firing right after #5 cyl and allegedly getting a little less mixture as a result (as they pull from the same area of the plenum). Dual planes don't have that issue, or to the same extent.

For the stock rpm range, I'd be inclined toward the normal Edelbrock dual plane Performer intake. Carb would be between a 625cfm AVS or a (approx.) 600cfm STREET Demon (which can be had with a phenolic float bowl for that nostalgie ThermoQuad look, but without it being a spreadbore carb.

It would be nice to upgrade the cam to later 383 4bbl specs, BUT the old 252 degree cam (383/270 2bbl in '66) was the same cam specs as the Sport Fury 350 2x4bbl eng in '58. If it's the later lower compression '71 383 2bbl (with the Holley 2210 2bbl rather than the earlier Carter BBD or Stromberg WWC-3), it's already got the 256/260 383 4bbl cam from '66+. Might be neater to add a set of HP exhaust manifolds and 2.50 dual exhaust with '72 Imperial mufflers (same flow as the OEM Street Hemi muffler, but in the larger C-body size, with 2.50 pipe).

There are some better and newer cam profiles out there, but you'd still be in the same basic duration area with them. Assymetrical lobe shapes can have "more area under the lift curve" for more power, but that's your decision of spending money for not a huge power increase (over the stock cam) in a street vehicle. The 440HP cam might be a decent option, though, just depends upon the weight of the vehicle, the rear axle ratio, etc. Got to consider the COMPLETE package for the best results. Better to have more torque and "highway gears" than the "joy" of a 5800rpm power peak with lower rear gears to make THAT work.

Your decision . . .

CBODY67

Thanks for your input CBODY67. That is a good wealth of info and I'm glad you posted it... I know though a mani and carb replacement from stock may seem like an easy bolt on solution to gain some performance or otherwise, it is not always the case. More often than not, changing one thing usually leads to having to change something else and as a result you end up worse than what you had.
 
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Thanks for your input Dave - my carb is a Carter C4-AFB 3611S and it's been rebuilt.

View attachment 186094

The 3611S was used as a stock carb on both the 383 and 426 wedge motors. I should have enough intake to supply your 383 with a mild to moderate cam, so you should be able to use that carb. Might have to do some tweaking of the primary jets and secondary metering rods to fatten up the carb and accommodate the hotter cam if you are going to use one. As noted by others above, you will have to upgrade the exhaust to gain any significant increase in performance. More air in needs to get out as more exhaust.

Dave
 
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Just throwing this out there. If you are not making any other modifications and are running the stock log manifolds I am not sure that your performance is going to improve noticeably by changing the intake. If we are talking about a stock '66 383 you need to keep in mind that it has the small exhaust valve closed chamber heads. I can see changing the carb to a newer, more reliable carb with an electric choke but don't see it being worthwhile to spend the money on an intake without freeing up the exhaust flow. You don't say whether or not you have a single or dual exhaust system on the car or what rear gear ratio you have. This information would be helpful to have for anyone to make recommendations as would knowing what your goal is.

Thanks for your input FURYGT. I couldn't agree with you more in your synopsis. I stated the engine was a stock 383 that came with a 2-barrel and that's the basis of what I have to work with. Since it is stock the reality is I'm really dealing with low compression pistons, a non performance cam, small exhaust valve closed chamber heads, log exhaust manifolds with single exhaust. All that said I agree that changing just the intake and a carb probably wouldn't be very cost effective. Those were my thoughts initially, but I wanted to get feed back from those with more experience. Reading through everyone's posts most have the 440's or HiPo 383's which by factory are already upgraded, but I was really wanting to hear from a member that had a similar configuration as I and see what they've experienced.
 
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Looking at the combo posted by Commando1 you'd be wasting a lot of cash to stay in the past, with all the issues from the past. On Summit the manifold lists for $524.95 and the recommended carb ( thunder AVS) $466.95 for a grand total of $991.90. Throw in a new cam, lifters and push rods and your crowding $1400. A FiTech Go EFI kit is $995 and in in tank pump fro Tanks Inc is $200. With EFI you're shooting for the perfect Air/Fuel ratio at any RPM so unlike a carb you don't have to match CFM. These units supply air and fuel up to 600HP so you can take them forward if you hop up the engine. No choke, jets, vacuum secondaries, choke heaters, floats etc. Keep everything you now have and go EFI and feel the kick in your pants instantly.

Thanks Yatzee for your input. Now this is what I was wanting to hear... I was thinking of the EFI carbs and as you affirmed the cost of doing all the upgrades would easily equal the cost of the EFI Carb kit with just installing it and nothing else. Also, if I changed the intake I would have to customize a way to mount the air conditioning compressor. I asked Mr. Mopar Rick Ehrenberg whether he knew these new intakes had mounting holes for the stock air conditioning compressors. He replied, "Your sentence (question) is the fly in the ointment: I have never seen an aftermarket manifold with the AC compressor bracket bosses!"

Those EFI carbs have come down in price quite a bit over the last two years. I recall seeing them around $3,500 back then. Now that they're more affordable for my pocket book that appears to be the better way to go since it can monitor pretty much what I have and adjust accordingly. I'll have to look into it deeper, but I especially like your statement, "Keep everything you now have and go EFI and feel the kick in your pants instantly."
 
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Cheap and simple....68-70 "301" cast intake with a 650 Eddy performer carb.

What's different about the "301" intake?
Considering my stock comp
Cheap and simple....68-70 "301" cast intake with a 650 Eddy performer carb.

Thanks for your input -
  1. What's different about the "301" intake
  2. Based on my stock/present configuration, would there be a noticeable difference?
  3. Have you done this to a stock 383 such as I have?
 
66 300 383..452 heads,301 intake and 650 Eddy carb, TTi duals,Pertronix ignition.18.5 MPG stock cam. This thing can put you back into the seat noo problem..
1966 300 revival 002.JPG
 
The factory 301 intake was used on the 383 HP like on a Road Runner. compared to a 66 4bbl intake the later one has raised intake runners and larger ports. It flows better than the 66 piece. The Eddy performer alloy intake has similar runners but for a LOT more money.
Luckily, B/RB intakes are "dry" and can be had for 50 bux each.
A good simple hot tanking and sand blast then good to go.
1966 300 revival 038.JPG

1966 300 revival 036.JPG
 
Dr. Ebooger's comments make me wonder about the a/c bracket issue. I believe the Torker 383 I put on my '67 383 didn't need any, with the main brkt bolting to the front intake bolts. LA engines, my '80 Newport 360 has the Sanden-style factory compressor and needs the offset/twisted thermostat mounting to work with that combination.

From the 383RR motor forward, B/RB intakes seemed to change yearly, in the quest for more power. The earlier ones were decent for what they were, but they ALSO typically had log exhaust manifolds with 2" exit holes, which is probably one reason those earlier 413/426 wedge engines didn't make power as the 440s did. Free-up the exhaust and the intake will gain flow possibilities, which then leads to better intake casting designs.

I started to consider the self-learning EFIs when they came out, having watched the earlier products since the 1980s. It all looks so promising and can work well, BUT it's still mixing air with fuel (more precisely) at a greater investment. The TBI units are just electronic carburetors, to me. As long as we're using existing intake manifolds, the only real gains are in the precision of the metering and the fuel cut-off during "coast" periods of closed throttle. Throttle response will be tighter as as soon as the throttle moves, additional fuel is in the mix . . . rather than waiting a bit longer for air flow to move fuel from the float bowl to the venturis. But in a cruise condition, it's still getting fuel atomized in the throttle body and into an existing intake manifold. So, the $1500 investment will take a LONG time to recoup with fuel savings, the way I see it. Granted, quicker than when the kits were closer to $2K, but still "a while". Which is the reason I've put that off for a while, putting a Street Demon (with the phenolic float bowl) and an AVS2 in my carb stock for future use. Metering rod carbs always seemed to do better with fuel mixture curves than "fixed-jet" carbs, by observation.

I bought a new Holley 2bbl TBI kit for my '80 Newport 360. It has the BBD 2bbl on it (the ONLY year, that I know of) and needs something better. I bought the kit just before they tended to become obsolete, with Holley, for $500.00. Just needed the O2 kit for feedback control. It's still in the box (uses an inline fuel pump rather than a tank unit). As the engine still had the computer on it, I felt an EFI unit would be an upgrade and still keep with the "electronic engine control" orientation of that timeframe.

Thanks for the affirmation of the stock intakes, which I'd forgotten about years ago. I do remember that '68, '69, and '70 intakes seemed to be different each year, using the squarebore carbs they did. MUCH of the power increase the 440 brought us was MORE than just displacement-related. It was a little about displacement, but more about better cams, exhaust manifolds (bigger exit holes, even on the 350 horse motors!), and carbs that were a little larger, too. BUT none of this still was really radical . . . it just all worked together very well, the "
"Chrysler 'combination' engine" orientation that worked so well for them.

From the time I had put some 906 heads on my '67 Newport, I had the closed chamber heads to compare them too. Best I could tell, the ports were not that much different between the two, with the main issue being the open vs closed chamber. In a time when the open chamber heads were supposed to be better (other than the exh valve size). A few years later, David Vizzard comes up with the determination that closed chamber heads really work better than open chamber heads, performance-wise, for many reasons (read the book). If you angle-mill a B/RB open chamber head, you end up with a closed chamber head, by observation, although you have to mill the intake surface, too, so it all seals up nicely. AND, it tends to favor the normal Chevy small block chamber, for what it's worth.

So, before you dismiss the "factory cams" as "tiny" (and allegedly lacking, as Friberger tends to term them), actually look at the specs. All the way back to the 300F GT cam. All the way up to the "emissions, low compression" B/RB HO motors up to the '78 model year. To me, they are really better than many might suspect, with more lift and duration than the earlier RR/GTX cams, as Chrysler sought to increase the air flow THROUGH the motor to help compensate for the lower compression ratios needed for emission issues. Ford did the same thing with a 351HO in their optional motor in the Torino Elite ('74 model year).

I fully realize that the "tech" those cams were built with is definitely dated by now, BUT you can still use those cams to build pretty decent performance motors. Not really needing to upgrade unless the cam is worn, for example. You can also use the factory advertised specs to shop for newer-design cams, too. Seek out the "assymetrical lobe" cams with more "area under the lift curve", too. When I put one of those cams in a block and did the measurements, the intake valve was open a full 10 crankshaft degrees of duration, as the stock cam was at max lift for 1 degree of crank duration. Quick-open, longer time at max lift, slower closing can make a better way to do things without having to go to a roller profile.

Many times, it seems, we get into "Small Block Chevy Think" in looking at Chrysler engines and "what they need". This CAN be tricky, by observation, as Chrysler generally had better designs than Chevy ever did. Heads, intakes, exhaust manifolds, and cams. Back in the earlier days of our local Mopar club, many members believed in the Chrysler engineering approach and kept their stock combinations on/in their engines. Even the stock exhaust manifolds! They were well-finessed, but still stock. None of the internal porting things that Brezinski did on the Chevy circle track items!

End result was that our guys' cars with stock stuff on them would be competitive with what the Chevy guys had (but with headers, bigger carbs, etc.). We put down an "exhaust manifold, street tire" challenge to them. They probably snickered and went on . . . until they got beat . . . and retreated to race non-Mopars. Such fun!

When our guys might get together with some other Mopar clubs, when the "pairings" were done, they were surprised when the RB cars wanted to start with RB cars. Our guys said "No, you have to qualify by FIRST getting past that '70 Dart Swinger 340 over there. They looked surprised! But those were our rules. Stock Swinger 340, but well-finessed with Z-rated tires in the correct-dimensions as the original D70x14 stock tires. Optional 3.91 rear axle ratio, as I recall, but stock cam, stock intake, stock carb, stock exhaust. Surely, their 440 hot rods could easily handle that one. NOT! Sometimes, it was a "quick night". LOL Try that with a Chevy 350.

So, shop wisely!

CBODY67
 
This was your question

That's all I heard. Which Edelbrock & What Carb?
Who answered your question?

As usual you're quick to correct and you're absolutely right - I got answered what I asked. My bad, what I asked and what I actually meant were two different questions. But hey, I thought you always read between the lines LOL!!!
 
Dr. Ebooger's comments make me wonder about the a/c bracket issue. I believe the Torker 383 I put on my '67 383 didn't need any, with the main brkt bolting to the front intake bolts. LA engines, my '80 Newport 360 has the Sanden-style factory compressor and needs the offset/twisted thermostat mounting to work with that combination.

From the 383RR motor forward, B/RB intakes seemed to change yearly, in the quest for more power. The earlier ones were decent for what they were, but they ALSO typically had log exhaust manifolds with 2" exit holes, which is probably one reason those earlier 413/426 wedge engines didn't make power as the 440s did. Free-up the exhaust and the intake will gain flow possibilities, which then leads to better intake casting designs.

I started to consider the self-learning EFIs when they came out, having watched the earlier products since the 1980s. It all looks so promising and can work well, BUT it's still mixing air with fuel (more precisely) at a greater investment. The TBI units are just electronic carburetors, to me. As long as we're using existing intake manifolds, the only real gains are in the precision of the metering and the fuel cut-off during "coast" periods of closed throttle. Throttle response will be tighter as as soon as the throttle moves, additional fuel is in the mix . . . rather than waiting a bit longer for air flow to move fuel from the float bowl to the venturis. But in a cruise condition, it's still getting fuel atomized in the throttle body and into an existing intake manifold. So, the $1500 investment will take a LONG time to recoup with fuel savings, the way I see it. Granted, quicker than when the kits were closer to $2K, but still "a while". Which is the reason I've put that off for a while, putting a Street Demon (with the phenolic float bowl) and an AVS2 in my carb stock for future use. Metering rod carbs always seemed to do better with fuel mixture curves than "fixed-jet" carbs, by observation.

I bought a new Holley 2bbl TBI kit for my '80 Newport 360. It has the BBD 2bbl on it (the ONLY year, that I know of) and needs something better. I bought the kit just before they tended to become obsolete, with Holley, for $500.00. Just needed the O2 kit for feedback control. It's still in the box (uses an inline fuel pump rather than a tank unit). As the engine still had the computer on it, I felt an EFI unit would be an upgrade and still keep with the "electronic engine control" orientation of that timeframe.

Thanks for the affirmation of the stock intakes, which I'd forgotten about years ago. I do remember that '68, '69, and '70 intakes seemed to be different each year, using the squarebore carbs they did. MUCH of the power increase the 440 brought us was MORE than just displacement-related. It was a little about displacement, but more about better cams, exhaust manifolds (bigger exit holes, even on the 350 horse motors!), and carbs that were a little larger, too. BUT none of this still was really radical . . . it just all worked together very well, the "
"Chrysler 'combination' engine" orientation that worked so well for them.

From the time I had put some 906 heads on my '67 Newport, I had the closed chamber heads to compare them too. Best I could tell, the ports were not that much different between the two, with the main issue being the open vs closed chamber. In a time when the open chamber heads were supposed to be better (other than the exh valve size). A few years later, David Vizzard comes up with the determination that closed chamber heads really work better than open chamber heads, performance-wise, for many reasons (read the book). If you angle-mill a B/RB open chamber head, you end up with a closed chamber head, by observation, although you have to mill the intake surface, too, so it all seals up nicely. AND, it tends to favor the normal Chevy small block chamber, for what it's worth.

So, before you dismiss the "factory cams" as "tiny" (and allegedly lacking, as Friberger tends to term them), actually look at the specs. All the way back to the 300F GT cam. All the way up to the "emissions, low compression" B/RB HO motors up to the '78 model year. To me, they are really better than many might suspect, with more lift and duration than the earlier RR/GTX cams, as Chrysler sought to increase the air flow THROUGH the motor to help compensate for the lower compression ratios needed for emission issues. Ford did the same thing with a 351HO in their optional motor in the Torino Elite ('74 model year).

I fully realize that the "tech" those cams were built with is definitely dated by now, BUT you can still use those cams to build pretty decent performance motors. Not really needing to upgrade unless the cam is worn, for example. You can also use the factory advertised specs to shop for newer-design cams, too. Seek out the "assymetrical lobe" cams with more "area under the lift curve", too. When I put one of those cams in a block and did the measurements, the intake valve was open a full 10 crankshaft degrees of duration, as the stock cam was at max lift for 1 degree of crank duration. Quick-open, longer time at max lift, slower closing can make a better way to do things without having to go to a roller profile.

Many times, it seems, we get into "Small Block Chevy Think" in looking at Chrysler engines and "what they need". This CAN be tricky, by observation, as Chrysler generally had better designs than Chevy ever did. Heads, intakes, exhaust manifolds, and cams. Back in the earlier days of our local Mopar club, many members believed in the Chrysler engineering approach and kept their stock combinations on/in their engines. Even the stock exhaust manifolds! They were well-finessed, but still stock. None of the internal porting things that Brezinski did on the Chevy circle track items!

End result was that our guys' cars with stock stuff on them would be competitive with what the Chevy guys had (but with headers, bigger carbs, etc.). We put down an "exhaust manifold, street tire" challenge to them. They probably snickered and went on . . . until they got beat . . . and retreated to race non-Mopars. Such fun!

When our guys might get together with some other Mopar clubs, when the "pairings" were done, they were surprised when the RB cars wanted to start with RB cars. Our guys said "No, you have to qualify by FIRST getting past that '70 Dart Swinger 340 over there. They looked surprised! But those were our rules. Stock Swinger 340, but well-finessed with Z-rated tires in the correct-dimensions as the original D70x14 stock tires. Optional 3.91 rear axle ratio, as I recall, but stock cam, stock intake, stock carb, stock exhaust. Surely, their 440 hot rods could easily handle that one. NOT! Sometimes, it was a "quick night". LOL Try that with a Chevy 350.

So, shop wisely!

CBODY67

Whew! that is quite a mouthful CBODY67, but WELL WORTH the read! Thanks so much for that wealth of information. I really enjoy reading what members share especially when it comes from first hand experience through trial and error rather than those who just share what they've heard. Best to get it from the horses mouth I say. I will take all that into consideration and if you don't mind I'll hit you up if I need any further information or clarification.
 
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