Replacing waterpump...tips & tricks ?

luigi164

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I started to replace the waterpump and clutchfan.
First problem: how to loosen the bolts from the waterpump pulley. Yeah, I know, put a wrench on the bolt and turn to the left :rolleyes: but the problem is how to keep the pulley from turning..
I'm pretty sure people here have done this before, so what's the golden tip ?
 
For those really hard to loosen bolts or nuts I use a pry bar w/ an angled tip and a 0 degree boxed end wrench.

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I started to replace the waterpump and clutchfan.
First problem: how to loosen the bolts from the waterpump pulley. Yeah, I know, put a wrench on the bolt and turn to the left :rolleyes: but the problem is how to keep the pulley from turning..
I'm pretty sure people here have done this before, so what's the golden tip ?

Leave the fan alone. Unbolt the water pump (four bolts) and remove the fan and water pump as one unit altogether.

EDIT: This assumes the radiator is out of the way. . .
 
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I agree with numbers 3 and 4 responses. I have also used a long, standard screwdriver. I wedge it between two of the nut heads while turning another with a boxed-end wrench, like response #6. Not a really fun job regardless of the way it's done.
 
Well, waterpump and clutchfan are out. The pry bar trick worked for me but it was a nasty job..
And there's good and bad news.
The good:
The clutchfan seems to be the original and I believe is still working well. At least it has the same resistance when turning by hand as the new Hayden 2747 I bought.
Waterpump seems also original, pentastar on it, and looks like new. Not corroded or whatever, no play on the axle and turns smoothly.

The bad:
Now I'm out for options why the engine is overheating ?

And my dilemma: should I replace the original pump and clutch ( as I don't see anything wrong with)
ór should I put the new Gates pump and Hayden 2747 ?

One reason in favour for the Gates is that is has 8 blades instead of the 6 blades on the original.
Car has A/C and needs the 6 blade but the A/C is not functioning and have no plans of making it functional.
Opinions/suggestions are welcome.
See pics:

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The radiator and or the block could be full of deposits limiting the capacity and or flow.


Alan
 
Reassemble and flush the engine thoroughly. Pull the lower rad. hose and block drain plugs. Reach up inside the block d rains w/ a cloths hanger to loosen any core sand, corrosion. Inspect the rad. for blocked tubes. You need to check rad. performance w/ a infared temp gun. w/ the engine running at full oper. temp. You didn't mention it, do you have the fan shroud, w/o it your eng. will have higher temps. Post results please. Hope this helps.
 
The two things that needs to be asked is "How hot is it?" and "When does it do this?" Without those two questions being answered, no proper diagnosis can be had.

There are lots of reasons for overheating and with a 440, the only way a water pump would cause it would be a catastrophic failure.
 
The two things that needs to be asked is "How hot is it?" and "When does it do this?"

After starting engine and let it warming up at idle it stays at approx 190 F. It goes to 210-215 F when I start driving. Highway or country roads, it doesn't matter. Temp goes up and stays.

Reassemble and flush the engine thoroughly. Pull the lower rad. hose and block drain plugs. Reach up inside the block d rains w/ a cloths hanger to loosen any core sand, corrosion. Inspect the rad. for blocked tubes. You need to check rad. performance w/ a infared temp gun. w/ the engine running at full oper. temp. You didn't mention it, do you have the fan shroud, w/o it your eng. will have higher temps. Post results please. Hope this helps.

While rad was of I inspected and flushed it (again) : no signs of blocked tubes or crud. I do have a fan shroud and checked rad temp with a temp-gun. At top of rad about 215 F to 220 F sometimes, at bottom about 160 F and meassured at different spots on the rad.

I'll try to get those drainplugs out.
 
After starting engine and let it warming up at idle it stays at approx 190 F. It goes to 210-215 F when I start driving. Highway or country roads, it doesn't matter. Temp goes up and stays.

Well... That's not overheating. That's just running a little warm.

Lot's of things could cause it. Air flow for example.... Are all the stock splash shields in place? That old fan clutch is a likely suspect too. Have a fan shroud?

You could change to a 160 degree thermostat. That may or may not make any difference, although it did with my car.
 
I said to a friend of mine once, and it can be true here: "If you still had nothing but the idiot lights instead of an actual gauge, the temperature wouldn't bother you at all."
 
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