More battery cable questions

[Yeahrightgreer]

Stupid question I know but just thought you'd guys be able be able to help me.

Is the starter and starter relay in the same position for a 70' B-Body as it would be on a 69-71' Chrysler? I know on the E-Bodies their quite different and the wires take a different path - straight across instead of over the brake booster.

I'm just curious if I'd be able to purchase a B-body positive battery cable for my 70 Chrysler and if they'd be roughly the same length. I would measure it myself but I wont be near the car for the next few months. Trying to collect items for when I come back.

If I have to I'll just do it the old fashion way and buy some 4AWG, insulation and start cutting.

 

[Big_John]

The Chrysler cable is much longer.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

I know there are a few members who have had to order custom cables or get them made - does anyone have the measurements or schematics on hand anywhere?

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Contact M & H Electric, they make all the harnesses sold by Year One
They made mine (69 Polara)
Reproduction Wiring Harnesses for America's Muscle Cars

Alan

 

[The Goose]

Another route is pull it out measure it and build your own. That's what I did for less than 25 bucks saved me a ton of money. Hardest part was finding that fabric tape ( smells like tar ). I finally found it a mining supply store in Trona.

I'd just build it if I was you. I used basic hand tools and zero skill. Good luck & mine looks just like the one in the picture. It's easy...

 

[MrMoparCHP]

Another route is pull it out measure it and build your own. That's what I did for less than 25 bucks saved me a ton of money. Hardest part was finding that fabric tape ( smells like tar ). I finally found it a mining supply store in Trona.

I'd just build it if I was you. I used basic hand tools and zero skill. Good luck & mine looks just like the one in the picture. It's easy...

What about the battery lug with the wires? not a repair lug that clamps on the wire.


Alan

 

[Big_John]

If you are looking for the "correct" looking battery cable, Alan has the answer.

If you don't care so much about it looking OEM, you can just buy the correct length red #4 battery cable at NAPA. You will have to reuse or make a new cable that runs from the starter relay to the starter, but that's easy enough. Wrap the two with friction tape where it runs to the starter. The new cable should have a "pigtail" connection that you'll have to crimp the feed wire that runs to the fusible link. I always cut the insulator off the new cable and use a piece of heat shrink tubing to make the connection neater.

That's what I did with my '70 300. Looks clean and neat with my NAPA batttery.

 

[MrMoparCHP]

I don't think you can get a 60" ready made battery cable, that is what lead me to M&H


Alan

 

[Big_John]

I don't think you can get a 60" ready made battery cable, that is what lead me to M&H


Alan

I think the battery cable on my car is longer than 60". This was a quick search, but here's a red 78" battery cable that they list for my car.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MPB781169
You can always cut it down.

They also list a black 65' cable for the same application. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CBL716814

Deka lists a 65" cable #04181. Red #4. http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0304_DEKA_BATTERY_ACCESSORIES_2014.pdf You can probably find someplace cheaper with some searching, but here's a link. 04181 Red Battery Cables, 65" Length, 4 Gauge

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Am I looking at using a 14 Gauge Fusible link? My FSM annotates the wire as A1B-14R*. I plan on running a 60 amp alternator. A bit more than my factory.

 

[saforwardlook]

Am I looking at using a 14 Gauge Fusible link? My FSM annotates the wire as A1B-14R*. I plan on running a 60 amp alternator. A bit more than my factory.

Will your underdash wiring take the extra amps put out by that 60 amp alternator without getting too hot, you know, like the factory ones did with just 35 amps? Chrysler was too cheap when it came to the under dash main feed wire so the connectors fry.

 

[Big_John]

Am I looking at using a 14 Gauge Fusible link? My FSM annotates the wire as A1B-14R*. I plan on running a 60 amp alternator. A bit more than my factory.

Yes.

The fusible link is there as protection against shorts or other excessive draw in the circuit. Don't try to increase the size or replace it with a fuse.

A good mod is to run a #10 wire with a #14 fusible link from the alternator output to the battery connection on your starter relay. This is the same as the "Mad" or "Nacho" upgrades. A good explanation here: Some considerations about the charging and wiring upgrade and your worries about

This allows most of the current from the alternator to bypass the bulkhead connector, dash wiring and ammeter. The bad news is your ammeter won't work, but a voltmeter is a good option. Chrysler started doing this same circuit around 1973.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Thank you. My battery terminals slipped off and lost its connection while the engine was running - frying my voltage regulator; prompting me to go through all my wiring in my charging circuit and fix it now rather than later. I need to start carrying a fire extinguisher. These 48 year old wires aren't cutting it.

I'm sure I'll have more questions in this thread later. As always. You gents are awesome.

 

[The Goose]

What about the battery lug with the wires? not a repair lug that clamps on the wire.


Alan

I started out with the closest cable match I could find for about 17 bucks I had the rest of the stuff from years of rat packing. The tape was about 6 bucks. I initially decided to buy one from year two or etc etc and had a heart attack when I saw the prices!!!

 

[The Goose]

Thank you. My battery terminals slipped off and lost its connection while the engine was running - frying my voltage regulator; prompting me to go through all my wiring in my charging circuit and fix it now rather than later. I need to start carrying a fire extinguisher. These 48 year old wires aren't cutting it.

I'm sure I'll have more questions in this thread later. As always. You gents are awesome.

.

Mine did the same thing negative cable the head pulled right off in my hand. It cost me a rebuilt alternator to the tune of $125. Old school shop redid it the right way. Anyways here is how my cable came out. Not bad for 25 bucks.


Old vs new. It's doable.