Anything that can fry a voltage regulator?

I was going through voltage regulators every couple of years, too, so a couple months back I decided to give one of Bill's a try and I simply love it! I had irregular charging (at least according to my gauge) where it would charge for a few minutes after starting and then quickly fall back to neutral or even negative when I used the turn signal or the brakes, and the headlights would be dim, too. Not cool. I read some comments here where guys with similar problems had tried the electronic (mine were all old-school mechanical) and their problems were solved. I figured for $20 bucks it was easily worth a try, and so far so good. I have had mine 4 or 5 months now and I could not be happier with it. I still monitor my gauge frequently when driving and it now behaves just like it should, it never shows a discharge, and my headlights are always nice and bright with no apparent strain on my electrical system. Magic!
 
Michael, I will ship the Voltage Regulator out on Monday. Will get you tracking info etc. tomorrow.

I will be bringing some with me to Carlisle.

Bill: Where are you gonna be located at Carlisle? I could use one of those electronic regulators for my '66 300.
 
Bill, do you carry any quality 2-Prong Voltage Regulators used for the 70’ model year and up? I haven’t tried my local parts store but I don’t put too much faith in them.

No, sorry.

Bill: Where are you gonna be located at Carlisle? I could use one of those electronic regulators for my '66 300.

I'm here now with my green 68 Sport Fury in the show field. Look for the lime green tent.
 
Last edited:
This site is the best!!! I'm having charging issues with my 67 Newport Custom and just ordered an electronic VR from FuryGT. Thanks all for the consistent expert guidance on all things C Body!!
 
Received the new VR and just installed it - charging system is working great now! Voltage is rock solid regardless of load. Thanks, Bill, that's a really excellent item you have there!
 
The regulator grounds to the firewall through the mounting bolts, but I still add a ground wire just to be safe.

Add a GROUNDING STRAP and be damned sure it has a continuous WIRED PATH to the battery negative! I've did this 2 yrs ago and my regulator has been rock solid ever since. I run a "ground run" to all the major system accessories, from the negative, to a small ground screw on the coil bracket, to a larger ring connector on an intake manifold bolt, to the firewall ground strap. I also have the big ground, a #4 AWG secured to the block as is conventional and a couple body grounds up front for the lights, pusher fan and such. 50+ yr old sheetmetal can get pretty problematic when GOOD electrical connections are the issue.

P.S. Fury GT's voltage regs ARE excellent. That's what I'm running now too.
 
Just a note with grounds. When you measure for a good ground for an alternator, voltage regulator or ignition control module. Check the for ground to battery negative with engine running under load for the alternator, engine running for other components using mV scale of your multimeter. Go from the alternator case to battery negative, for other components go from the housing, when doing this put the positive lead on battery neg and the neg lead on the case. If your ground is good you should have less than 50mV for the alternator other components 20mV.
 
One additional thing the mV reading on the alternator ground will increase as the alternator charges more.
 
Back
Top