For Sale '70 Sport Fury (numbers matching)

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B-Rode

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MUST SELL!! Due to unfortunate circumstances, I'm having to let go of my 1970 Plymouth Sport Fury :/

2 barrel 383cui numbers matching
3 spd auto
B5 Blue
Plymouth Wood Grain Steering wheel
Magnaflow exhaust
Brand new Cooper Cobra Radial GTs
New gas tank
Some neat original build sheets and papers
Odometer reads about 34k

Runs very smooth and mechanically quite sound for an original motor this age, but of course has minor bits that can be improved. The car can definitley use a visual restoration (or keep the patina!), but I drive it as is and it's cool anyway. The rear right quarter panel is the most gnarly, however it doesn't affect performance. Rust holes in the trunk, but otherwise pretty good and can be patched up. The roof can either be re-vinyled or buffed out and converted into a hardtop. It has a 1971 hood, BUT I have a '70 power bulge hood INCLUDED and it's ready to restore.

I'm in Big Lake, Minnesota, and if you have any questions or interest, please contact me via any of the ways below and I'll get back to you asap. We can discuss pricing as well, and I'm open to negotiating. Feel free to ask questions on this thread but please contact me personally for offers.

$7800

Text/call: 763 203 5773
Email: [email protected]

Thanks!

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I am always confused when I see the term "numbers matching" on a Mopar. Shouldn't that mean "original motor and transmission?" If so, why don't people say it? If they mean it has a date-correct motor and or transmission, that would be cool, but it would no longer mean "numbers matching."

Anyone else have thoughts on this?
 
numbers matching is cool:thumbsup:
date code matching don't mean a **** to me!
unless it is that old when numbers matching did not exist.
 
I get nothin but bs from craigslist so I'm hoping someone who will take good care of it will come along
 
Mopar blocks and transmissions after sometime in 1968 have the last 8 characters of the VIN stamped on a pad,thus the phrase, numbers matching.
vin-pad-c00253-800x600-jpg.jpg
 
Mopar blocks and transmissions after sometime in 1968 have the last 8 characters of the VIN stamped on a pad,thus the phrase, numbers matching.
View attachment 210974
Yes, agreed. And such makes it an original motor and transmission. Numbers matching on a Chevy or Ford means something different.

I had a friend selling a "numbers matching" E Body. So when I said, "Original motor, cool!" He said, "No, correct date code." Therefore, when I told him that his car was not "numbers matching" because it wasn't a Chevy, he got pissed and we had an argument.
 
H
Yes, agreed. And such makes it an original motor and transmission. Numbers matching on a Chevy or Ford means something different.

I had a friend selling a "numbers matching" E Body. So when I said, "Original motor, cool!" He said, "No, correct date code." Therefore, when I told him that his car was not "numbers matching" because it wasn't a Chevy, he got pissed and we had an argument.
How rare are #s matching mopars anyway? I know it's certainly worth mentioning but is it actually a rare find?
 
H

How rare are #s matching mopars anyway? I know it's certainly worth mentioning but is it actually a rare find?
I don't know the answer to that question, but the phrase, for me, is a loaded one. As was said earlier, from '68 on a "numbers matching" car means the numbers on the block and trans will match the last 6 of the car's VIN. If not, for a Mopar, it's not numbers matching. But as with the case of my Buddy, sometimes you have to ask, "You mean it's the original motor?" Because that may not be what the seller means.

As for value, a Hemi car with the original motor will bring more money that one with a NOM. Therefore, that phrase carries weight. At least it can.
 
@Snotty I really don't think it matters much for value on any brand if it's a low end.
Maybe if a six cylinder Nova with 11,000 miles museum piece it might be worth more than the same car with a swapped in small block.

Same with a 318 Challenger.

If you are a collector, i could see that being a plus.

The OP's car, not so sure if it makes it worth more, personally, the fact that it's already a big block is a plus.
 
LOL you got your reply in a few seconds before me, we are thinking on the same lines.
Sorry we are thread robbin SOBs @B-Rode
 
If you fellas happen to know any other good platforms to get my car for sale on let me know. I haven't got the time to go to more shows and what not in person so online is my best option for now.
 
Yes, agreed. And such makes it an original motor and transmission. Numbers matching on a Chevy or Ford means something different.

I had a friend selling a "numbers matching" E Body. So when I said, "Original motor, cool!" He said, "No, correct date code." Therefore, when I told him that his car was not "numbers matching" because it wasn't a Chevy, he got pissed and we had an argument.
If your friend was calling the car numbers matching then no he is wrong for sure. When stating "numbers matching" it is typically referring to the VIN numbers stamped on the block and transmission matching the VIN of the car. Obviously this doesn't apply to most Mopars 68 or earlier.
 
If you fellas happen to know any other good platforms to get my car for sale on let me know. I haven't got the time to go to more shows and what not in person so online is my best option for now.

EBay and I think that you need to set your expectations lower given the condition and because it is the less desirable formal roof body style. Just my opinion based on what another members 1970 GT sold for recently and what my 318 powered 1971 Fury III with the more desirable roof sold for a few months ago.
 
EBay and I think that you need to set your expectations lower given the condition and because it is the less desirable formal roof body style. Just my opinion .

FURTGT, you put it in a very polite way...
I looked at the pics, description, and price and thought to myself,
-this person does not want to sell this car at all-, hence the very
unrealistic price. However the poster does say they are " open to
negotiating ".. When the price get negotiated to about 1/3 of what
it is now then the car will have a better chance of selling..


I'm in Big Lake, Minnesota, and if you have any questions or interest, please contact me via any of the ways below and I'll get back to you asap. We can discuss pricing as well, and I'm open to negotiating. Feel free to ask questions on this thread but please contact me personally for offers.

$7800

Text/call: 763 203 5773
Email: [email protected]
 
FYI I very much do want to sell it and if you add up what I bought it for and what I put into it, it exceeds the initial asking price. I know I'm not gonna be making profit but I'm gonna start higher than what I expect to actually get.
 
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