Rebuilding Brakes

300cruiser

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After dealing with a number of issues, rim heating, pulling, hard pedal, I am finally rebuilding all 4 corners. The rears are complete and road tested, the fronts are 90% and I hope to complete tonight. I got stumped last night when installing the new front hydraulic hoses, they seemed too short although correct replacement part #. After thinking on it all night and talking to a buddy, I suspect that I forget to account for the wheel load once the car is dropped. Thoughts on this?
Also, I had a terrible time removing the front cylinder bolts. It's all good now but any old man with hat tips for future removal efforts?
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Your comment about the wheel cylinder bolts makes sense because they were likely attached to the backing plate first and then the backing plate bolted into place with no concerns for future replacement
 
I remember grinding down a combination wrench to tighten up the bolts on another car I worked on
 
Hey, a suggestion; while you're dding all of that, make an aesthetic change: get new bearing end caps. Those beat-up ones are ugly.

I know, no one is going to see them, but....
 
Hey, a suggestion; while you're dding all of that, make an aesthetic change: get new bearing end caps. Those beat-up ones are ugly.

I know, no one is going to see them, but....

I hear you, nobody sees them but I know they're there. Next year's plans include front and rear bearings so I'll change them out at that time.
 
I hear you, nobody sees them but I know they're there. Next year's plans include front and rear bearings so I'll change them out at that time.
I recently did a brake job on my son's '96 Dodge 1500 pickup. We had a heck of a time finding the correct size caps for his front wheels. Ended up reusing his old ones.
 
After dealing with a number of issues, rim heating, pulling, hard pedal, I am finally rebuilding all 4 corners. The rears are complete and road tested, the fronts are 90% and I hope to complete tonight. I got stumped last night when installing the new front hydraulic hoses, they seemed too short although correct replacement part #. After thinking on it all night and talking to a buddy, I suspect that I forget to account for the wheel load once the car is dropped. Thoughts on this?
Also, I had a terrible time removing the front cylinder bolts. It's all good now but any old man with hat tips for future removal efforts?
View attachment 217945 View attachment 217946 View attachment 217947

The hoses have to reach through the full travel of the suspension. Just because the number in the catalog says it's right doesn't mean it is.

Does it compare in length to the old one?
 
Your comment about the wheel cylinder bolts makes sense because they were likely attached to the backing plate first and then the backing plate bolted into place with no concerns for future replacement
I had to take the backing plates off my '65 Barracuda to get to them.

If you do that, you have to be sure to have a jack stand under the lower control arm.
 
The hoses have to reach through the full travel of the suspension. Just because the number in the catalog says it's right doesn't mean it is.

Does it compare in length to the old one?

The old hoses are 14" and the new 13.75". I have found a Raybestos that is listed as rear hose and is 13.9" but I'm concerned about the nut & thread position and being able to thread it into the cylinders without removing them again.
 
get new bearing end caps. Those beat-up ones are ugly.

Um their called 'Dust Caps' here on the right coast :poke:

Just grind a round rod umm to be round on the end and tap out the dents, you can make look almost good as new if you do it right
 
Um their called 'Dust Caps' here on the right coast :poke:

Just grind a round rod umm to be round on the end and tap out the dents, you can make look almost good as new if you do it right
I used a 2lb ball peen hammer and another smaller one to fix the caps on my Polara this past spring.
Turned out very well IMHO
left front cropped.jpeg
 
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