7 blade fan "upgrade" for 1967 383HP?

GG-1

Active Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2015
Messages
457
Reaction score
259
Location
Brooklyn
IMG_1838.JPG
IMG_1839.JPG
Hello dear C-friends,

My 1967 VIP with 383HP Commando all factory stock has a four blade fan now. My question is two part:

Will a seven blade replacement improve cooling under the hood at idling and cruising speeds?

And will the fan shown in photo work/fit on my car? It's a 17" Mopar, 7 blade fan stamped with part number 2863200

Thanks All,

Alex
 
Factory a/c cars had a 7-blade fan with a fan clutch. The clutch kept the fan quiet above idle speed, but helped cooling as needed. Once, I didn't want to afford the $$ for a new fan clutch on my '66 Newport 383, so I "staked" the fan clutch to keep it locked-up longer. It was very noisy. No doubt, a direct-drive 7-blade fan would be similar.

DO make sure the radiator is CLEAN all the way thorugh. Looking at it through the filler neck can be deceiving as the accumulation typically settles to the bottom of the radiator core.

ALSO, it might be a good time for an engine block freeze plug removal, full engine block coolant passage flush (with the core plugs removed), new core plugs, and a new thermostat. I used to get 9 quarts of anti-freeze in the factory a/c radiator on the '66 Chrysler. That put the freeze protection down to below -34 degrees F.

As an intermediary item, you might use a garden hose and a sprayer to wash out the radiator core from the front and back. Lots of stuff can accumulate in between the core tubes, which can restrict air flow and related engine cooling.

How "warm" is it getting this time of the year?

CBODY67
 
View attachment 227533 View attachment 227534 Hello dear C-friends,

My 1967 VIP with 383HP Commando all factory stock has a four blade fan now. My question is two part:

Will a seven blade replacement improve cooling under the hood at idling and cruising speeds?

And will the fan shown in photo work/fit on my car? It's a 17" Mopar, 7 blade fan stamped with part number 2863200

Thanks All,

Alex

The fan you have in the photo will not work with a fan clutch. Assuming that you have a rigid mounted 4 blade fan currently on the vehicle that is also 17", this should be a straight bolt in to install. More fan blades move more air thru the radiator core so there should be an increase in cooling. As Willis noted, you need to check your T-Stat and radiator core to be sure that they are operating properly and be sure the cooling grid in the radiator core is not blocked by seeds, leaves, pine needles etc.

Dave
 
big fans help at idle. do little to nothing at cruise. big horse power hog though. my newport has one. alternator belt broke and i didn't realise it. at cruise enough air moved through the radiator to spin the fan/water pump, circulated coolant and kept the engine cool. bad news at the first stop light though. did a u'ie and hustled home!
 
Thanks for the input Guys,
The car never overheats. The temp needle might creep up at stop lights on 95-100 degree summer days. There is no fan clutch. Factory 4 blade bolts straight on. The block and radiator could surely use a thorough flush, as the coolant is brownish while the car is running, and green again when cold.. so yeah, I think years of sediment is getting kicked up. I've flushed the radiator a couple of times until it ran clear.. so it's the block that is circulating some old stuff around. I'd rather not pop the freeze plugs right now.. maybe just the drain plug on the block, and a reverse block flush, and another radiator flush, and see how that goes. Still, I don't think the block is the issue.
I only ask about a bigger fan because I thought it may help reduce excessive "underhood" temperatures when the car slows down and air flow/cooling is minimal. Any other ideas to keep the engine compartment cooler, so things like the coil and carburetor etc. are happier?
 
Last edited:
big fans help at idle. do little to nothing at cruise. big horse power hog though. my newport has one. alternator belt broke and i didn't realise it. at cruise enough air moved through the radiator to spin the fan/water pump, circulated coolant and kept the engine cool. bad news at the first stop light though. did a u'ie and hustled home!
Yikes, So you made it with no damage?
 
Thanks for the input Guys,
The car never overheats. The temp needle might creep up at stop lights on 95-100 degree summer days. There is no fan clutch. Factory 4 blade bolts straight on. The block and radiator could surely use a thorough flush, as the coolant is brownish while the car is running, and green again when cold.. so yeah, I think years of sediment is getting kicked up. I've flushed the radiator a couple of times until it ran clear.. so it's the block that is circulating some old stuff around. I'd rather not pop the freeze plugs right now.. maybe just the drain plug on the block, and a reverse block flush, and another radiator flush, and see how that goes. Still, I don't think the block is the issue.
I only ask about a bigger fan because I thought it may help reduce excessive "underhood" temperatures when the car slows down and air flow/cooling is minimal. Any other ideas to keep the engine compartment cooler, so things like the coil and carburetor etc. are happier?

What you might consider, rather than just the block drain plug, is to take the lower radiator hose off at the radiator, remove the upper hose and thermostat w/housing, let things drain out, then flush through the water pump, into the block/heads, and out the lower radiator hose. IF you might use any cooling system chemical flush agent, use it weakly as the stuff it might remove could be keeping a hole in a freeze plug covered.

One other thing to consider is that the engine sits in the car with the rear cylinders a little bit lower than the front ones. The rear is where the sediment will collect first, not the front. Try to not use high pressure water as you're basically doing a reverse flush, so gentle water would be best, so it doesn't try to move something backward and create a blockage.

Might just put water in the system, run the engine until it's warm, then drain everything through the bottom radiator hose. Reconnect and re-fill with water. Cycle repeat until it runs pretty clear. Might even run it a few days in normal car use, rather than doing it all at once. Play it by ear and see how it goes.

When you're comfortable with the clarity of the water, drain the radiator and put 2+ gallons of quality coolant in the radiator. See how it goes . . . Also, be sure to dispose of the fluids in an environmentally legal/friendly manner.

CBODY67
 
What you might consider, rather than just the block drain plug, is to take the lower radiator hose off at the radiator, remove the upper hose and thermostat w/housing, let things drain out, then flush through the water pump, into the block/heads, and out the lower radiator hose. IF you might use any cooling system chemical flush agent, use it weakly as the stuff it might remove could be keeping a hole in a freeze plug covered.

One other thing to consider is that the engine sits in the car with the rear cylinders a little bit lower than the front ones. The rear is where the sediment will collect first, not the front. Try to not use high pressure water as you're basically doing a reverse flush, so gentle water would be best, so it doesn't try to move something backward and create a blockage.

Might just put water in the system, run the engine until it's warm, then drain everything through the bottom radiator hose. Reconnect and re-fill with water. Cycle repeat until it runs pretty clear. Might even run it a few days in normal car use, rather than doing it all at once. Play it by ear and see how it goes.

When you're comfortable with the clarity of the water, drain the radiator and put 2+ gallons of quality coolant in the radiator. See how it goes . . . Also, be sure to dispose of the fluids in an environmentally legal/friendly manner.

CBODY67
Thank you, I'll start with just water the way you described.. drive, drain, repeat until clear..
 
If you decide to use a "flush" product I recently used Evaporust Thermocure and recommend it.

I used it in my Jeep 4.0 that would run hot on the highway and I could see clogging of the tubes. I ran 2 bottles of Thermocure through for 4-5 days and then flushed all of that out with about 5 drain and refills. Now the gauge stays right in the middle and I can see that the crap in the tubes is gone, so I think the product worked as it should.
 
Back
Top