repro window switches
- Thread starter Jeff
- Start date
I was lucky to get all 4 window switches for my NYB from a member here for $100. They look just about brand new and no pitting or corrosion. Good enough for me.
Yes, they are expensive. I'm glad mine were repairable.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I can't knock the price. They put their balls on the chopping block coming up with these switches.
My motto is, The only ones around are the cheapest ones around.
The wise ones have stockpiled used switches.
My motto is, The only ones around are the cheapest ones around.
The wise ones have stockpiled used switches.
NOS ones go for that. That's more than a fair price as long as the longevity is there
I think that's justifiable prices for a really important item. Let's hope they have good sales so maybe they'll consider the seat switches (and bezels!) and other crazy-priced NOS 'lectrical stuff. Gotta love 'em for their efforts.
OTOH, I think it's the strange, crappy connectors inside the door panel that's the source of problems (high resistance or no contact at all). I had a dead window that I solved by doing this:
Quick, minimum-heat soldering on cleaned, tinned pins and tinned wire allows for work to be completed without dismembering the switch. (Note: I'm pretty good with a slobbering iron, YMMV). I did BLAST the switch with contact cleaner before the solder work. You'll notice I marked my wire colors for future reference. It's REALLY easy to get the wires upside-down on the switch due to the FSM diagram being "open for interpretation" depending on how you understand which side of the connector the diagram is portraying. (You'd need to have the door apart and the FSM diagram at hand to understand what I'm talking about) But trust me....after much preparation and care, during testing my window went up when it should have gone down and vice-versa. So, I just turned the switch upside-down and reassembled the damn door. Hell with future reference!
Here's the parts of the crappy connector inside the door panel, minus the wires, for those who aren't familiar with it. Old technology that worked okay when new, but not after the door panel has been removed a dozen times since your car left the factory. Those circular "tangs" were worn out and useless for transferring sizable electric current. Solder works goooooood.....
OTOH, I think it's the strange, crappy connectors inside the door panel that's the source of problems (high resistance or no contact at all). I had a dead window that I solved by doing this:
Quick, minimum-heat soldering on cleaned, tinned pins and tinned wire allows for work to be completed without dismembering the switch. (Note: I'm pretty good with a slobbering iron, YMMV). I did BLAST the switch with contact cleaner before the solder work. You'll notice I marked my wire colors for future reference. It's REALLY easy to get the wires upside-down on the switch due to the FSM diagram being "open for interpretation" depending on how you understand which side of the connector the diagram is portraying. (You'd need to have the door apart and the FSM diagram at hand to understand what I'm talking about) But trust me....after much preparation and care, during testing my window went up when it should have gone down and vice-versa. So, I just turned the switch upside-down and reassembled the damn door. Hell with future reference!
Here's the parts of the crappy connector inside the door panel, minus the wires, for those who aren't familiar with it. Old technology that worked okay when new, but not after the door panel has been removed a dozen times since your car left the factory. Those circular "tangs" were worn out and useless for transferring sizable electric current. Solder works goooooood.....
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Also:
I know we all hate working in doors, so notice my poor, beat-up hands.
During this effort, I had also removed the passenger window to install a factory side view mirror that requires inner access to tighten the nuts to the studs in the mirror base. That was a long day of cursing and cleaning decades-old track grease off my hands....
And:
Thanks to the OP for posting that good info.
I know we all hate working in doors, so notice my poor, beat-up hands.
During this effort, I had also removed the passenger window to install a factory side view mirror that requires inner access to tighten the nuts to the studs in the mirror base. That was a long day of cursing and cleaning decades-old track grease off my hands....And:
Thanks to the OP for posting that good info.
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ceebuddy
Well-Known Member
@Jeff
Thanks for posting, that's interesting news! I had not imagined any company would ever try to reproduce these items.
@Trace 300 Hurst
Thank you for your tech tip! The OEM connectors are not an ideal design, that's true. However, I think the typical malfunction on these switches is that the plastic "legs" of the button melt from too much heat caused by too much current flowing through the actual switch because of a window motor drawing too much electricity while fighting to get the window up; and/or corrosion in the switch causing it to heat up. As a result of the molten legs the switches feel wobbly and later quit working alltogether.
What are the other member's experiences concerning the cause of "switch death"?
Thanks for posting, that's interesting news! I had not imagined any company would ever try to reproduce these items.
@Trace 300 Hurst
Thank you for your tech tip! The OEM connectors are not an ideal design, that's true. However, I think the typical malfunction on these switches is that the plastic "legs" of the button melt from too much heat caused by too much current flowing through the actual switch because of a window motor drawing too much electricity while fighting to get the window up; and/or corrosion in the switch causing it to heat up. As a result of the molten legs the switches feel wobbly and later quit working alltogether.
What are the other member's experiences concerning the cause of "switch death"?
I added relays to mine. Power Window Relays, now with Power Vents
But what John isn't telling you is that his car weighs 5895 lbs due to all the relays he has added. 
That's certainly a likely scenario. Old motors, old wobbly mechanisms, dirty window tracks, old dirty switch contacts (that's likely the significant problem)....could all combine to melt those "legs".
I didn't mention that during my "soldered pigtail connector" mod, I disassembled the switch and stroked the contacts with a tiny piece of folded 1000-paper before I blasted it with contact cleaner. FYI, if anyone takes those switches apart, the tiny, straight springs that give the button it's "feel" go back in LONGITUDINALLY, not across the button TRANSVERSELY like you would initially imagine. And those springs are very, very, very tiny and totally invisible when they fly out and land "somewhere". So, take it apart very slowly so you can catch a glimpse of where the springs go before they take flight. Consider disassembly inside a large plastic bag to limit the directions they can go.
That's certainly a likely scenario. Old motors, old wobbly mechanisms, dirty window tracks, old dirty switch contacts (that's likely the significant problem)....could all combine to melt those "legs".
I didn't mention that during my "soldered pigtail connector" mod, I disassembled the switch and stroked the contacts with a tiny piece of folded 1000-paper before I blasted it with contact cleaner. FYI, if anyone takes those switches apart, the tiny, straight springs that give the button it's "feel" go back in LONGITUDINALLY, not across the button TRANSVERSELY like you would initially imagine. And those springs are very, very, very tiny and totally invisible when they fly out and land "somewhere". So, take it apart very slowly so you can catch a glimpse of where the springs go before they take flight. Consider disassembly inside a large plastic bag to limit the directions they can go.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I gotta remember that one!
A layer of new, clear dry-cleaner plastic draped over your work gives you a fighting chance to keep those leeeeetle carb hairpins and other micro springs from entering low-earth orbit. Problem is....unless you KNOW what's inside that switch you probably won't have the foresight to grab that plastic.
But what John isn't telling you is that his car weighs 5895 lbs due to all the relays he has added.
I should of taken a picture of my master commander window switch to show you how bad the plastic melted. Still can't believe I didn't smell any of it burning. Some part's of the switched were actually charred.
That's part of the charm of the distinctive "Old Mopar Smell"......
switch connections fails can be attributed plastic failure caused by the latches breaking. Blimp help me out this year w/ a donor pig tail from a door he had. Worked like a charm. Brass connections squeezed back to there original configuration w/ a small pair of needle nose pliers can help too. Word to the wise, If you find a usable pwr. wind. connector, grab it as repops aren't available.
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