Choke kits

ImpJay

The different young
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I`ve been thinking of buying an electric choke kit to replace the manual unit on Impster`s 4bbl Holley. If we leave brands aside, what do you think about the reliability of choke conversions?

A5 172.jpg
 
No issues after many years of electric choke Holleys. Key thing is to get a solid power source and remember that it's self-grounding. They have a thermistor item which is supposed to modulate the choke according to engine temp, but I never could get it to work correctly, so mine's wired with one wire.

Will take a little "playing with" to get the base calibration correct, by observation, but then I'd do that with a non-electric choke, too.

Personally, as with the later emissions calibrations, I like to get the choke "off" as soon as the engine will run reliably, which for me in my climate, is after about three blocks of driving. NGK plugs (initially V-Power) helped with that, too.

I know many like manual chokes, but for my orientations, they take a bit too much attention to be continually messing with it (pushing it in) during normal warm-up driving. Either too much or too little. Other things to be worried about than the choke position.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Having a carb that an electric choke thermostat can be readily adapted to is one thing, but replacing an OEM divorced choke with an electric choke on a carb that didn't or couldn't have had one, would needed a carb with an existing elec choke already on it.

In the middle '70s and later, Chrysler used an "electric assist" divorced choke unit. That's the one that needs the "tower" on the intake manifold to mount it on. Seems like it requires some additional circuitry/mechanism to regulate it?

In the OEM applications with OEM divorced chokes, probably better to upgrade to a newer carb with an existing elec choke already on it, I suspect.

Carbs with an "integral choke thermostat", as many Ford and GM carbs did, replacing the existing choke thermostat with an electric choke thermostat should be an easier deal. Provided the diameters of the thermostat housings are the same. That's my suspicion.

CBODY67
 
Having a carb that an electric choke thermostat can be readily adapted to is one thing, but replacing an OEM divorced choke with an electric choke on a carb that didn't or couldn't have had one, would needed a carb with an existing elec choke already on it.

In the middle '70s and later, Chrysler used an "electric assist" divorced choke unit. That's the one that needs the "tower" on the intake manifold to mount it on. Seems like it requires some additional circuitry/mechanism to regulate it?

In the OEM applications with OEM divorced chokes, probably better to upgrade to a newer carb with an existing elec choke already on it, I suspect.

Carbs with an "integral choke thermostat", as many Ford and GM carbs did, replacing the existing choke thermostat with an electric choke thermostat should be an easier deal. Provided the diameters of the thermostat housings are the same. That's my suspicion.

CBODY67

I could otherwise live with a newly bought Thermoquad, but for approximately 500-700 euros, a carb with the warp-prone body is keeping it off the consideration. You`ve given good tips, so thanks for that!
 
Not wanting to crash this thread but I am really seeking an answer to the following question:

If I buy a manual choke Edelbrock Performer carb, will the choke mechanism of the new carb easily connect to the original divorced choke spring and rod of the car? The car was originally equipped with a Carter AVS 4-barrel.

The passenger side lever of the choke shaft on the Edelbrook carb looks different than the respective part of the original Carter AVS carburetor (which also featured a provision for the rod from the vacuum pull-off to hook into). But in theorey it should work, maybe with bending or elongating the rod coming from the original choke spring.

Did anyone ever try this?
 
Not wanting to crash this thread but I am really seeking an answer to the following question:

If I buy a manual choke Edelbrock Performer carb, will the choke mechanism of the new carb easily connect to the original divorced choke spring and rod of the car? The car was originally equipped with a Carter AVS 4-barrel.

The passenger side lever of the choke shaft on the Edelbrook carb looks different than the respective part of the original Carter AVS carburetor (which also featured a provision for the rod from the vacuum pull-off to hook into). But in theorey it should work, maybe with bending or elongating the rod coming from the original choke spring.

Did anyone ever try this?

No problem ceebuddy!

Can you say on which side the choke cable would connect on the Eddy. Suitability of manual mechanism and the spring depends on that and the AVS has it on the driver side, if I remember it right.
 
Thanks, I guess that settles that. If I ever want to go to another level I'll add an Edelbrock or Holley w/electric choke and electronic ignition. For now though, it runs fine and the choke is minor thing. I would like to have a new heat riser thermo spring, that would at least get it back to OEM operation.
 
No problem ceebuddy!

Can you say on which side the choke cable would connect on the Eddy. Suitability of manual mechanism and the spring depends on that and the AVS has it on the driver side, if I remember it right.
The original choke spring is located on the passenger side of the intake manifold and connects to a lever on the passenger side of the original Carter AVS. That is almost the same spot where the Edelbrock Performer carb (which is said to be based upon the Carter AFB) has that lever.

Here is a picture of the Carter AVS, red arrow indicates where the rod from the choke spring connects to:

Carter AVS.jpg


Here is a photo of the passenger side of a manual choke Edelbrock Performer carb, red arrow indicates where choke cable would connect to:

edelbrock.jpg


I am pretty sure one could loosen the screw holding that tab with hole on the choke shaft so that the tab could be repositioned.
 
You would have to put on the choke pull off
Thinking about it... the Edelbrock Performer carbs with electric choke don't have a choke-pull-off. So putting on the pull-off is probably advisable but not a requirement.

carbedl4_6.798.jpg


Also this still leaves open the question whether the original rod coming from the choke spring in the intake manifold would connect to an Edelbrock Performer carb (a) not at all (b) easily (c) with a little modification of the rod, or (d) with a little modification of the tab/lever at the passenger side end of upper choke shaft.
 
My vote goes for C or D, but lets see what other members have to say about it.
 
I put a manual choke on my Stromberg 262. Nice to have it on these cool mornings now. Very easy to set up too.
 
Which brand kames those kits for Strombergs?

Spectra generic kit. No Stromberg specific kits around these days. Edelbrock kits should work for this too. It's VERY SIMPLE. Any choke cable held in place on the manifold close to where the stove spring links to the carb by an L bracket drilled for holding the cable firm works. I've made manual chokes work for many of my old rides, and its never been hard to do with cheap, generic kits meant for this.
 
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