Engine Removal Questions

@Joseph James
Could I get you to take a picture of the exhaust y-pipe from the perspective of the right front of the car? And also where the left side bends around and ties into the Y? I am having an exhaust shop build me a new one and would like to have these shots to help with accuracy. I cut mine in high school to make duals and want to undo it. Thanks
 
@Joseph James
Could I get you to take a picture of the exhaust y-pipe from the perspective of the right front of the car? And also where the left side bends around and ties into the Y? I am having an exhaust shop build me a new one and would like to have these shots to help with accuracy. I cut mine in high school to make duals and want to undo it. Thanks

Yes, I will take some pictures. I won't be back at friend's shop until Monday or Tuesday. We have snow coming tomorrow and his place is on a mountain in the boonies. Roads may be bad until Tuesday.

Yes@cbarge. Going to clean the everything I can reach. We also going to clean old engine so we have a nice looking intake manifold and etc. to go on the new one.
 
Got an email that the engine is shipped. Comes with gaskets and Joe Gibbs break in oil. It's 15W-50, if I recall correctly.

We found transmission leak -front seal, pan and selector. Going to fix those along with rear brakes. Driver side is puking brake fluid even after a new wheel cylinder.
 
Oh boy, with all this information I find no mention of proper safety shop wear.
After watching a CoParts Auction horrendous HellCat crash rebuild on YouTube don't be a jackass like this.

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WEAR PROPER FOOTWEAR!

Not sneakers, not trendy hikers wannabe work boots but real workboots with real cowhide leather, steel toed if you prefer. I couldn't believe watching these kids with the trendy NYC tasseled hoodies, shorts, sneakers tearing the front end off this HellCat using grinder cutoff wheels with sparks flying. And what is it with using a grinder to do all cutting? Seen it on all shows, no skill with a torch? Insurance don't like a open flame anymore? I don't get it, someone takes 15/20 minutes with a grinder cutoff wheel that would take 2 minutes with a cutting torch. :realcrazy:

It wasn't until the 8th post that I learned of your trade and experience so the footwear advice maybe moot but I doubt it as it seems all you can get now are junk/trendy/ ahem HiTech footwear out of China. Even Redwing has gone crap, but there are others, (trade secret).


Ok, a few weeks late, and back off topic.
I finally found a real picture of European Safety shoes. (At least what they wear at the factory in Czech during the summer) Steel toe with air vents to breath

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Here you are.
@Joseph James
Could I get you to take a picture of the exhaust y-pipe from the perspective of the right front of the car? And also where the left side bends around and ties into the Y? I am having an exhaust shop build me a new one and would like to have these shots to help with accuracy. I cut mine in high school to make duals and want to undo it. Thanks

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Engine and engine bay degreased with diesel fuel followed by purple power.
Found a block heater on the engine. Northern car originally?
Selector seal on transmission is leaking. Watched Tyler video on YouTube to see how to change.

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I am not trying to steal your thread, but check out what I had to do to get the engine out of this 09 Ford F250 with a 6.4 Diesel.

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Got an email that the engine is shipped. Comes with gaskets and Joe Gibbs break in oil. It's 15W-50, if I recall correctly.

We found transmission leak -front seal, pan and selector. Going to fix those along with rear brakes. Driver side is puking brake fluid even after a new wheel cylinder.
 
WOW! That’s sure is allot to do just to change Glow plugs.. :rofl:

I’m sorry!! Just break’en balls. Lol
That is how you'd change them... guy's doing it everyday have the cab off in under an hour.
I am not trying to steal your thread, but check out what I had to do to get the engine out of this 09 Ford F250 with a 6.4 Diesel.
Working on EVERYTHING, as you do, how was the learning curve on the cab removal? I'm picturing myself spending about 3-4 hours the first time, just making sure I didn't miss anything... Nothing worse than pulling something apart because you missed unbolting/disconnecting it. Actually, it is worse when you get to PAY for the mistake...:rolleyes:
 
Got an email that the engine is shipped. Comes with gaskets and Joe Gibbs break in oil. It's 15W-50, if I recall correctly.

We found transmission leak -front seal, pan and selector. Going to fix those along with rear brakes. Driver side is puking brake fluid even after a new wheel cylinder.

I would replace the tail shaft rear seal too.
 
Since you've never done this before, be sure that torque converter is slid all the way back into the trans so it engages the pump when you put the engine back in. It's going to be a PITA as the pic shows it's slid out of the pump. Failure to do this will cause all sorts of headaches and maybe some damage.

Once you get it pushed back, clip a pair of vise grips to the bottom of the bellhousing so it doesn't walk forward again while dropping the engine in. This is why I recommended doing that before pulling the engine.

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Transmission selector seal replaced. Also did the front pump seal.Selector seal leak was really bad. You can see fluid loss in the photo.

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Here is the new long block. Casting date is 1967. Notes show forged steel crank, which is correct. They painted Chrysler Blue at no charge.

Tomorrow, we start repainting valve covers, etc. Oil pan has a crushed spot we are going to try to fix.

My friend (who has the shop we are working in) says it should be running Sunday.

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