Bent Strut Rod; Straighten, Replace, or Leave as-is

Straighten, Replace, Leave as-is


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BigblueC

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As the title implies I have a bent strut rod ('65 New Yorker). I'm rebuilding the front end so everything will be new (bushings/ball joints). So what are y'alls opinions? If I replace the rod(s) would you try to find original or go with Firm Feels HD which claim to be not compatible with the factory sway bar?

Also, secondary question, what is the original finish of the factory lower control arm in '65? Mine seem to have been zinc plated/bare?

In the picture the left side/front of the rod is squared 1" off of the square.
IMG_4316.JPG
 
These were generally left bare. You do not want to try and straighten bent steering components as that can lead to a catastrophic failure later on. Find a good used one someplace and move on. Usually when these got bent it was from running the car over something tall enough to contact the strut rod and bend it. These rods are fairly high quality material that can take a lot of flexing, but they do not take kindly to being bent. That spot will be forever weak.

Dave
 
I replaced the bent strut rods on the BoaB thanks to inexperienced tow truck drivers..
front end rebuild 2 004.JPG
 
Lower control arms of ‘68 era were bare, but coated in cosmoline which kind of gave them that zinc ish look.
RP-342 "HEAVY" Military-Grade Rust Preventive Spray
They have different ones not sure if this specific link is the right tint and thickness.
Thx for the link. I was looking for something to coat my dad’s F150, since it’s a southern raised truck, this NY weather will eat it if i don’t protect it..
 
Initially, my original orientation was to straighten it out. Using a cold press and a low heat. But with that smooth bend, some "stretching" might have occurred. Using the preferred cold press to straighten it out could also result in a rod that's a small bit longer than it's original length.

As that rod is in a length-specific location, having both rods the same length is important. Re-bending might work, but it one wheel is farther set-back on the platform than the other, toe-in and other wheel placement issues might result.

Best to put another unmolested rod in its place. PLUS new bushings all around, for good measure.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Thanks for the responses guys. Cbody67, the potential for a weak spot and stretching is what made me decide to find a replacement. I contacted 68plymoth383 about the rods he offered up and should be getting those from him sometime in the next week or two. I figure that I can straighten the original as a last resort.

I'm guessing that the last guy who aligned the car couldn't get it where it needed to be and decided to bend the arm with a chain as it was pulled down toward the bottom of the fender.

Here's my LCA bushing as it was, which is the whole reason for the rebuild. I just reached in and pulled it out with my finger.
IMG_4254.JPG
 
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