First day out with Sport Fury. Not the best.

[Joseph James]

Lots of rattling when braking. Reminds me of a front wheel drive car with a bad strut.

Carburetor is not right. Idle is not good at all. Stumbled off red lights, sounded like it wanted to die when I let off the gas. Drove about 40 miles. Made it around but wife thought we were going to get stranded.

Too rich on mixture?

I should add that a linkage spring was missing when I bought the car. Got something at O'Reilly but it's not correct. I've emailed Murray Park about getting one.

 

[cbarge]

At idle what is your vacuum reading?
What is your base timing set at?
Points or electronic ignition?
A fresh motor will do funky things for a while till everything gels.

 

[thrashingcows]

What is your motor, 318, 383, 440? 2bbl or 4bbl, electronic or points ignition etc....????

 

[cbarge]

What is your motor, 318, 383, 440? 2bbl or 4bbl, electronic or points ignition etc....????

From his other thread a freshly rebuilt 383 2bbl.

 

[Joseph James]

Car starts and idles. It will not idle in gear. It seems to be flooding out . It died once while in park and I saw a gush of gasoline from the bowl vent. Carb is new.

Timing is 5BTDC
Mixture screws are just beyond rough idle.
Curb idle screw set so it eases in to drive with no slam. I don't have a tachometer.

 

[cbarge]

Car starts and idles. It will not idle in gear. It seems to be flooding out . It died once while in park and I saw a gush of gasoline from the bowl vent. Carb is new.

Timing is 5BTDC
Mixture screws are just beyond rough idle.
Curb idle screw set so it eases in to drive with no slam. I don't have a tachometer.

A vacuum gauge is much more handy at this stage. Tach would be nice.
Btw you did not answer ...points or electronic ignition? We can help provided you give us information.
For the time being bump timing up to 10 degrees .
Reset mixture screws.with engine off turn them in all the way and back out 1.5 turns each. Fire her up again and watch vacuum reading.
Attach vacuum gauge at the port that feeds your heater controls next to brake booster port back of intake.
A fresh motor will idle up and down till the rings seat and everything gels so it is best to have a little more idle and timing than usual but not a whole lot.
Worst vacuum reading should be 12 inches or 15. Set timing idle screws and mixture screws to get at least 18 inches of vacuum.
It will jitter and move around till you get the sweet spot. Test and tune and get some driving time on the motor. Idling does not do it any good needs a load on it.
Cheers

 

[cbarge]

When tuning wake sure she is warmed up and choke disconnected.
I see you installed the intake yourself. When running spray wd40 around intake check for vacuum leaks and base of carb.

 

[Joseph James]

A vacuum gauge is much more handy at this stage. Tach would be nice.
Btw you did not answer ...points or electronic ignition? We can help provided you give us information.
For the time being bump timing up to 10 degrees .
Reset mixture screws.with engine off turn them in all the way and back out 1.5 turns each. Fire her up again and watch vacuum reading.
Attach vacuum gauge at the port that feeds your heater controls next to brake booster port back of intake.
A fresh motor will idle up and down till the rings seat and everything gels so it is best to have a little more idle and timing than usual but not a whole lot.
Worst vacuum reading should be 12 inches or 15. Set timing idle screws and mixture screws to get at least 18 inches of vacuum.
It will jitter and move around till you get the sweet spot. Test and tune and get some driving time on the motor. Idling does not do it any good needs a load on it.
Cheers

Thanks, I will get a vacuum gauge. I don't have heater controls or a brake booster.

Ignition is points.

Car starts and idles well. I drove it yesterday. Acceleration was fine. At a red light, it wasn't well. Today, it dies as soon as I put it in gear.

I did see fuel geyser out of where the accelerator pump rod is. Could I have a damaged needle? Carb is brand new.

 

[cbarge]

First of all I would have run a carburetor that was known to run very well.I.E tuned on a running engine then install on your engine to save the grief you are going through.

The plot thickens....friggin points...
Are the points new? What is the gap on them?
Do you have a dwell meter?? How many degrees of dwell you getting?
Gas up through the carb? Is your firing order on the plug wires done correctly?
Does it start first click of key or does it need help to start?
You need
- timing light with advance feature
- dwell meter
-vacuum gauge
With some or little experience those tools can help you.
Most of us can tune by ear but takes many years to get there.
But we are behind our screens.

Do not run her too much when too rich you risk washing out the cylinders.

Just like I am at my work...diagnosing over the phone..sheesh

 

[cbarge]

OK.
Plot thickens again.
Factory non air car,(dealer installed) manual brakes,no vacuum port that sucks..
Plus the port on the carb is timed for the distributor and will not work for the gauge.
You need a constant vacuum port to use a vacuum gauge.
If you can find a tee that will screw in to the back of the intake manifold vacuum port.
An engine is basically an air pump. the gauge will accurately read its efficiency.

 

[Joseph James]

OK.
Plot thickens again.
Factory non air car,(dealer installed) manual brakes,no vacuum port that sucks..
Plus the port on the carb is timed for the distributor and will not work for the gauge.
You need a constant vacuum port to use a vacuum gauge.
If you can find a tee that will screw in to the back of the intake manifold vacuum port.
An engine is basically an air pump. the gauge will accurately read its efficiency.

How about the port the PCV ties in on the intake?

Carburetor was installed on the old engine. I drove the car about 30 miles on it. No problems then.

Gasoline gushing out of top of bowl makes me wonder about float/needle.

I understand about no diagnosis over the internet. I am an electrician and I really don't like trying to diagnose anything I can't put my eyes and a meter on.

 

[cbarge]

How about the port the PCV ties in on the intake?

Carburetor was installed on the old engine. I drove the car about 30 miles on it. No problems then.

Gasoline gushing out of top of bowl makes me wonder about float/needle.

I understand about no diagnosis over the internet. I am an electrician and I really don't like trying to diagnose anything I can't put my eyes and a meter on.

PCV port should work
Float may be stuck in carb.
Personally I detest points and prefer either Pertronix or electronic ignition with a fresh motor.

 

[Joseph James]

Short video I made. Later I left the car idling in park. It died five minutes later. When it did, gas came out where the accelerator pump shaft goes into the bowl.

 

[cbarge]

Did I not say idling is not good for a fresh motor???
Is the temp gauge reading accurately?? If so that is a big concern.
is there a thermostat in the car??
Did you follow through my suggestions??
Sounds like running rough.
Wish I was there but impossible.

Get that vacuum gauge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It can tell me a whole lot more than a video of the car stalling.

Still waiting on answers to these questions I ALREADY asked...
Are the points new? What is the gap on them?
Do you have a dwell meter?? How many degrees of dwell you getting?
Gas up through the carb?
Is your firing order on the plug wires done correctly?
Does it start first click of key or does it need help to start? (pump the gas)
HELP ME HELP YOU
I know you are frustrated with the engine so stop think and listen

I am a nice guy but when people don't listen or read everything I tend to give up..

 

[Joseph James]

Did I not say idling is not good for a fresh motor???
Is the temp gauge reading accurately?? If so that is a big concern.
is there a thermostat in the car??
Did you follow through my suggestions??
Sounds like running rough.
Wish I was there but impossible.

Get that vacuum gauge!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It can tell me a whole lot more than a video of the car stalling.

Still waiting on answers to these questions I ALREADY asked...
Are the points new? What is the gap on them?
Do you have a dwell meter?? How many degrees of dwell you getting?
Gas up through the carb?
Is your firing order on the plug wires done correctly?
Does it start first click of key or does it need help to start? (pump the gas)
HELP ME HELP YOU
I know you are frustrated with the engine so stop think and listen

I am a nice guy but when people don't listen or read everything I tend to give up..

Firing order is correct.
Points are good and gapped to spec
I don't have a dwell meter
The car has an OEM style thermostat
Temp gauge is as accurate as can be. The old engine ran about halfway on the gauge. Same sending unit.
No hard starting. I don't touch the pedal. Three cranks and she starts.
Not running rough at all.
Timing set 5 degrees BTDC.

I drove the car Saturday and acceleration was good. I only had problems when coasting, or at red lights.

Yes, it pukes out gasoline. I'm wondering if my help over tightened the fuel line and damaged the needle. I found nut and bolt for carb on driver's side had not been tightened down. I have remedied that.

Thanks for your help but I don't want to be a cause of frustration for you.

 

[cbarge]

Ok....running hot,burping up through carb..stalling in gear ..vacuum and timing too low.

In the meantime dont f^^k with it till you do get a vacuum gauge.
A fresh rebuild and looking out for your best interest not to ruin it.
Take the thermostat out. Put it back in when the motor is in a happier mood.

As I mentioned in post #6 bump the timing up,reset the idle mixture screws and reset idle speed.
Do that with a vacuum gauge and get back to me.
Joseph James you are a good man for tackling a 50 year old car.

I am not frustrated since you are learning and at least you are asking questions.
Thanks for going back and reading everything.

via Imgflip Meme Generator

 

[Jakter]

Before you worry about vacuum gauges, points, etc.find out why it's pushing fuel out of the bowl vent.

Check the needle and seat.
DO NOT REMOVE THERMOSTAT.
If you have fuel being pushed out of the bowl vent and the accelerator pump shaft either your needle/seat/float is not working,there is a float level adjustment, or your fuel pump is putting out too much pressure and forcing the needle open.( Not likely but something to keep in mind)

What your vacuum reading is has no relation to gas pouring out of the carburetor from places it shouldn't.

 

[Joseph James]

Put vacuum gauge on it. 19" Hg idling in park.

May have found problem. Drew on vacuum advance hose by mouth. NO resistance. Think I have a bad diaphragm. Ergo, no timing advance.

I did pull carburetor last weekend. Cleaned it. Float set at spec, needle is working.

 

[thrashingcows]

You don't need any vacuum advance for regular driving, there is a mechanical advance built into the distributor through weights, the vacuum advance is more for hwy driving and fuel economy. To get your problem sorted out I would actually disconnect the vacuum advance.

I once hooked my vacuum advance to a constant vacuum source off the carb, not the ported like it should have been . Motor ran very hot and had lots of other issues.

I agree sort out the carb first, I would get a rebuild kit and pull it apart and reset all the adjustments.

 

[Joseph James]

You don't need any vacuum advance for regular driving, there is a mechanical advance built into the distributor through weights, the vacuum advance is more for hwy driving and fuel economy. To get your problem sorted out I would actually disconnect the vacuum advance.

I once hooked my vacuum advance to a constant vacuum source off the carb, not the ported like it should have been . Motor ran very hot and had lots of other issues.

I agree sort out the carb first, I would get a rebuild kit and pull it apart and reset all the adjustments.

I went ahead and ordered a reman distributor. Oddly, no advance units are available but the rebuilder of the distributor gets them from somewhere.

The carburetor is a new reman itself. Rebuilt by a Canadian company. It has maybe 50 miles on it. I disassembled it last weekend and everything was clean. I did remove idle mixture screws and blew out the circuit.

I would expect a bad vacuum diaphragm to effect manifold vacuum. Right? If I draw on the tube I get no resistance at all. Wouldn't this be like having an open vacuum line?