Steering box is leaking

swisherred

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I looked but am having trouble identifying what's wrong in the fsm. I'm leaking from the red arrow...would this be an o-ring or gasket?

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There are two o-rings that seal the return hose valve to the steering valve, and they are different sizes (that I do not have information about). But they're very likely to be readily available at a hardware or auto store. Remove that return valve and take it with you for fitting....after you clean it.
 
I loaded it with degreaser to clean off the fresh oils...so i could track down where the leak was...it will all be blasted off now that i know where its coming from. I have a huge stash of o-rings...I will check those and see if I have any that fit...otherwise off to the parts store. thank you kindly.
 
Blind speculation based upon previous experience would be the quad rings inside the control valve are shot.

Quad rings are O-rings with an "X" profile when bisected. Don't waste time replacing them with standard O-rings, it will leak worse.

Really, your first step should be to thoroughly clean the entire unit/area in order to pinpoint where the leak is. If you determine that the valve is leaking, scribe around it's edges to aid with reassembly and minimize self steering adjustments.

I followed the FSM for adjustment, it took a couple of trys to completely eliminate the self steering.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
Do not unbolt your whole steering valve, just the return hose nipple (valve). The rings provided by Firm Feel with their box (they don't provide the return or pressure fittings, because they're different on various cars) were simple o-rings.

IMG_3921.JPG
 
I know its leaking from that seam....but thats all i know. I dont know anything about the internals that could cause it. self steering???? other than the front end being worn out it steers fine..tracks straight and doesnt wander anymore than a worn pitman arm will cause.
 
The power assist valve body on the top of the gear slides up and down to adjust the power assist setting. There is a slotted pin that sticks up out of the gear to engage the valve assembly. Carefully scribe the current location of the valve body before removing it. As little as 1/64" of an inch change in adjustment (location) of the valve body will cause the vehicle to sell steer. The replacement o-rings need to be the oil resistant, high density type or they will not last. As noted above, if you are sure the hose nipple is what is leaking, it can be removed without disturbing the PA valve.

Dave
 
The manifold where the high pressure line comes in. It bolts on to steering boxes and has to be oriented a certain way/ adjusted. It will slam the wheel all the way to one side. If you don't mess with it it should be fine. Just in case don't start the car with arm through the wheel, never a good practice anyway.
This gets bumped sometimes during engine changes, if your foolish enough to remove it from top.
 
y'all are losing me....to me it looks like the orings in the above picture from Trace 300 are leaking...are y'all saying not to take those two bolts out and replace the orings or are you referring to another part of the unit?
 
I'm saying to remove the two small bolts that fasten the return nipple to the steering valve that the others are warning you about. That's what you see in the pic I provided. DO NOT remove the valve assembly that accepts the high pressure hose, or you're ruin your "tracks straight" situation.

The FSM calls the o-rings "gaskets". They're definitely o-rings, as I just installed them a week ago.

And the power assist valve that was mentioned above is called "steering valve" in the FSM.
 
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is the high pressure line the rigid hard line at the top of my picture? if so i have no intention of removing that portion...just the leaking manifold where the arrow is pointing...like your picture.
 
ok....found the procedure in the FSM...now i understand what yall are referring to. Im looking at replacing the two orings on the control valve body not removing the steering valve body or moving it.
 
ok....found the procedure in the FSM...now i understand what yall are referring to. Im looking at replacing the two orings on the control valve body not removing the steering valve body or moving it.

Exactly. O-rings sealing the Control Valve Body (what Firm Feel called a Return Valve) to the Steering Valve. You do not want to move or remove the Steering Valve, as that will Not Be A Good Thing To Readjust.

And pay strict attention to the recommended torque. 95 inch-pounds.
 
I believe it's when the steering valve is unbalanced and the wheel turns on its own thinking its assisting an operators turn.
 
What is meant by self-steering in this context? I'm unfamiliar with this concept- I presume it's a loss of steering control and a #$%^ to correct.

I believe it's when the steering valve is unbalanced and the wheel turns on its own thinking its assisting an operators turn.

Correct, if the valve is not "centered" the fluid flow will force the steering action right or left depending on which way the valve is off center.

Think of a garden hose with a "Y" valve on the end. Turn on only one side and the hose wants to wander one way. Turn on both sides and it will more or less stabilize and "center".

The effect on steering (depending on severity of maladjustment) is similar to a brake hanging up, poor alignment, or a low tire. The car will want to go right or left, but it's all in the steering box/valve/steering wheel.

Going on memory, the pressure is somewhere between 1200-1400 psi, thus the reason for the previously mentioned "wheel snap".

Following the procedure in the FSM is straight forward, slow and steady will win the race.

When I replaced them in my 4DSD, I could see the wheel start to move with just a bump of the key from run to start. Front end was on jack stands, so it would snap pretty good until I adjusted it properly.

Hope the input helps.

John
 
is the high pressure line the rigid hard line at the top of my picture? if so i have no intention of removing that portion...just the leaking manifold where the arrow is pointing...like your picture.
The horizontal bolts are okay with no issue. The vertical bolts can be the problem, fixable just more effort.
 
And make sure you don't use basic "auto parts store" O-rings or they will leak in a few days (ask me how I know). I got a set from firm feel or flaming river or ??? some steering box specialist company and it hasn't leaked since on mine.
 
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