68 Fury III Resurrection in MA

[RGORHAM29]

Hi Guys. Thanks for all the comments. Here is my update since last posting.

We did it… turned crank (wicked easy), worked the mystery oil in the cylinders, pushed oil out of cylinders, opened valve covers and lubed valves, lubed the carburetor, new plugs, changed the oil, new battery, primed oil pump, disconnected fuel line, installed temp fuel source and old fuel line pumps into gallon tank. Checked starter and electrical system. A buddy stopped by to help out and the kids picked up a wrench. Neighbors forewarned of potential smoke show…..All systems go. Car started with ease - only 3 turns of the key! (and yes – a 2 foot section of a smokey mouse nest blew out of the tailpipe too). Awakened after 20 years of slumber! Car idling on its own. Smoke dissipated and now starts first try without a smoke show. Sweet! All enjoyed seeing this car come alive.

That being said and feeling confident that I will get this car on the road this spring. I checked out the next phase of removing the gas tank to flush out. That’s where the fun ends…..I have a setback and need some advice.

I followed the tank straps and realized the rear frame rails from the torque box back to the bumper cross rail member are rusted out and should be replaced (spring shackle towards the bumper). I knew there was some rust but I started to pick at it and now have some missing metal. (See attached pics) Trunk pan under the trunk mat has holes above the tail pipe too.

So frustrated that I did not see that before....but then again it was a garage find buried to start with. I did source new rear frame rails from a desert car in Texas over the weekend for $1000 with shipping.

Here is my question…..since I need to repair/replace the rails…it’s probably a good time to replace the trunk pans, tank, filler neck, rear spring shackles and springs at the same time. How complicated or expensive is that (I envision welded bracing to hold the uni-frame steady/square)? Is it worth it?

View attachment 261991 View attachment 261991

also someone asked how the underside was - I spent some time under the car after my discovery. Floors are solid. remainder of unibody rails are solid. Yes - 50 years old you would expect some rust somewhere. quarter panel edges as expected on Passenger side (which i was aware of). Did source front fenders. Got a lead on rear quarters from another desert car. That all the ugly I have found so far. Interior is "Mint".

 

[Davea Lux]

I would start tapping the frame rails with a hammer, if they still ring, they are probably still sound enough to patch. The small hole back by the spring shackle can be patched with a gusset plate. Replacing the whole rear frame section is a very major undertaking and the car should be placed on a frame rack to be sure everything is properly lined up. You do not want a car that is "dog walking" down the highway because of a poorly fitted rear frame section. FYI having a shop replace the frame rails is not cheap and may well cost more than the car is worth. Your rear springs appear to have lost their arch and probably should be replaced. Small holes in the trunk pan can also be patched, the pan does not look that bad from what I can see from the underside photos. Be sure to check the mount points for the gas tank J-Bolts to be sure that they are still sound. The lower quarter rust can be spliced assuming the upper parts of them are solid.

Dave

 

[FURYGT]

From what I'm seeing, unless you are going to turn this into a show car where the underneath looks as good as the rest of the body I don't see the need to replace the rear portion of the frame rails. I think you just need a good welder to weld in some reinforcement plates. However, I would sandblast those areas first to make sure those areas are not worse than they appear.

Similarly, I'd patch the trunk floor where needed. I don't see a need to replace the tank filler tank, just the tank unless it can be boiled out by a radiator shop. Don't see the need to replace the shackles, just rebuild them when you replace, re-arch or have a leaf added to the rear springs. Just my thoughts.

 

[RGORHAM29]

I would start tapping the frame rails with a hammer, if they still ring, they are probably still sound enough to patch. The small hole back by the spring shackle can be patched with a gusset plate. Replacing the whole rear frame section is a very major undertaking and the car should be placed on a frame rack to be sure everything is properly lined up. You do not want a car that is "dog walking" down the highway because of a poorly fitted rear frame section. FYI having a shop replace the frame rails is not cheap and may well cost more than the car is worth. Your rear springs appear to have lost their arch and probably should be replaced. Small holes in the trunk pan can also be patched, the pan does not look that bad from what I can see from the underside photos. Be sure to check the mount points for the gas tank J-Bolts to be sure that they are still sound. The lower quarter rust can be spliced assuming the upper parts of them are solid.

Dave[/QUOT

From what I'm seeing, unless you are going to turn this into a show car where the underneath looks as good as the rest of the body I don't see the need to replace the rear portion of the frame rails. I think you just need a good welder to weld in some reinforcement plates. However, I would sandblast those areas first to make sure those areas are not worse than they appear.

Similarly, I'd patch the trunk floor where needed. I don't see a need to replace the tank filler tank, just the tank unless it can be boiled out by a radiator shop. Don't see the need to replace the shackles, just rebuild them when you replace, re-arch or have a leaf added to the rear springs. Just my thoughts.

I would start tapping the frame rails with a hammer, if they still ring, they are probably still sound enough to patch. The small hole back by the spring shackle can be patched with a gusset plate. Replacing the whole rear frame section is a very major undertaking and the car should be placed on a frame rack to be sure everything is properly lined up. You do not want a car that is "dog walking" down the highway because of a poorly fitted rear frame section. FYI having a shop replace the frame rails is not cheap and may well cost more than the car is worth. Your rear springs appear to have lost their arch and probably should be replaced. Small holes in the trunk pan can also be patched, the pan does not look that bad from what I can see from the underside photos. Be sure to check the mount points for the gas tank J-Bolts to be sure that they are still sound. The lower quarter rust can be spliced assuming the upper parts of them are solid.

Dave

Cool - I wondered about that - wasn't sure if "patching" a frame rail would be allowed or accepted during car inspections. Not intended to be a show car at this time. My goal is to get it to be a weekend driver with the kids. Definitely need to replace the springs/shackles....they are "upside down". I can definitely patch the trunk pans. I will clean off the rails to see what is good/bad. If there is enough solid metal then i will patch and continue on the fuel system. Then continue to finish the engine fluids, gaskets/rubber, brakes and tires. Ok - that is some positivity then. The lower quarter are repairable and you are correct - can patch the lower sections.

Stay tuned!

 

[FURYGT]

RGORHAM29, BTW, where in MA are you located?

 

[RGORHAM29]

Hi folks - quick update. did a quick test ...Cleaned off the rear rail from rear spring shackle to bumper. Hit it hard with a hammer to see what was soft, scraped off old rust proofing then wire wheeled it. Good news - patching rail may be in order vs complete replacement. bad news...but looks feasible....may need to re-create the cross member that runs past the filler neck. Looks to be thin metal bent and spot welded to trunk floor - I assume 14 GA metal. Will pull car into driveway for space and remove rear bumper this weekend. I will have a better idea as to whats required on rear cross member.

Stay tuned.

 

[cbarge]

Good news that it is repairable.
On my car I fish plated the frame near the spring shackle.
I used heavy gauge steel plate.
I removed the gas tank ,rear springs,and rear bumper to make it easier to do the repair

 

[cbarge]

Now the tail panel is structure.
Take your time to do this right.
You can use one sheet of sheet metal of equal thickness to fabricate it.
The ends do overlap near the slots for the bumpers.
I used a brake to bend my pieces,cut the holes and then welded them in.

 

[cbarge]

 

[RGORHAM29]

Wow - thanks. your photos look almost identical as to what I need to do. I understand the taking time....measure and fit 6x then weld once. Very much appreciated!

 

[68 4spd Fury]

View attachment 262727
View attachment 262728

Some nice fabrication there.

 

[cbarge]

Some nice fabrication there.

Thanks!

 

[cbarge]

Wow - thanks. your photos look almost identical as to what I need to do. I understand the taking time....measure and fit 6x then weld once. Very much appreciated!

You are very welcome.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Question - I may need to cut bolts off holding rear bumper brackets to frame....at least on the passenger side. Can they be replaced?

 

[Davea Lux]

Question - I may need to cut bolts off holding rear bumper brackets to frame....at least on the passenger side. Can they be replaced?

Try soaking them with a good rust dissolving product first, "Break Free", Freeze Off, etc, if you still can not get them loose, the bolts are not anything unique, Grade 5 in the proper length if memory serves me correctly. I might still have some of them around, PM me if you can not get them loose.

Dave

 

[cbarge]

The nuts in the frame are welded.
The bolts for the bumper bracket thread into them.
I do not recommend cutting them creating more work trying to extract the remains in the frame.
As Dave mentioned try soaking them.
The other alternative--which I had to do---use a set of torches to heat them up.
Propane torch works but takes longer to get the bolts cherry red.

 

[RGORHAM29]

The nuts in the frame are welded.
The bolts for the bumper bracket thread into them.
I do not recommend cutting them creating more work trying to extract the remains in the frame.
As Dave mentioned try soaking them.
The other alternative--which I had to do---use a set of torches to heat them up.
Propane torch works but takes longer to get the bolts cherry red.

Thx guys. Soaking it is.....

 

[FURYGT]

Having a good quality air powered impact gun will help significantly. If you don't have a 25-30 gallon air compressor and a selection of air tools I would recommend investing in them given what your plans are. Nuts Off is another good rust penetrating spray. Try and soak both the bolt head and where the bolt head goes into the frame if you have access.

 

[azblackhemi]

Living here in the desert Southwest I've never encountered anything rusty enough for a true test but I've heard a 50-50 mixture of Acetone and ATF beats all of the penetrating oils on the market.

 

[RGORHAM29]

Having a good quality air powered impact gun will help significantly. If you don't have a 25-30 gallon air compressor and a selection of air tools I would recommend investing in them given what your plans are. Nuts Off is another good rust penetrating spray. Try and soak both the bolt head and where the bolt head goes into the frame if you have access.

Ah....tools....I love it!

Yes - between that and a "hot wrench" may be the answer. some of the bolt heads are pretty rusted. I only had a couple hours today. I wired them off...and soaked them up with some penetrating oil. It was able to remove the smaller bolts from the lower bumper brackets (brace) at bottom of the bumper. The larger bolts at the frame will take some time. Impact gun may be warranted. I left them soaking.

I was thinking that it may be more efficient to detach the main brackets from the frame to remove the rear bumper. I did notice the filler neck bracket attached (disconnected it). I disconnected the licence plate light too. am i missing something?

I also grabbed some ziploc bags. best to get in the habit of bagging and labeling parts....along with the socket size used.

I will pull the car outside if the weather looks good next week and lift the car up on stands for more space to maneuver.

RG29