Firm Feel vs Steer & Gear

Cazman

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I have read numerous recommendations here for Firm Feel steering box. Looks like their cost $379 for a box. Steer & Gear charges $320 and seems to offer similar service. Has anyone used S&G?

By box was leaking pretty bad before I took apart my front end. It was so caked up, that it was hard to figure out where the leak was (car was not driven for over 30 years), so I think I do not want to spend time diagnosing and just get a quality unit to replace.

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Seeing how much thread you have left in the adjusting screw for play there I would say the internals of your box are pretty good. I would be inclined to buy a seal kit for it from RockAuto.com as that would work out about a tenth of the price. Maybe worth a shot first?
 
The box seal kit plus the control valve seal kit? I was hesitant to tackle the control valve.
 
Were at this point on the Sporty, father in law wants a more modern feel. I have heard good and bad with both companies.
 
My box was loose and leaking, so I recently installed the Stage 1 FF box, along with the Bouchillion solid aluminum "rag joint rubber biscuit coupler thingy" (mine was totally destroyed into four pieces, lots of slop), and I'm very happy with the results. The tiniest bit of wheel movement steers the car. I also rebuilt the pot coupler, and I recommend using the clamp, as seen in the bottom photo. You'll never get the cap back on correctly! New hoses, too.

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Clean, and it works.
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where is that biscuit located? I remember having on on my van and I think my coronet, but I havent seen it in the 67 newport yet...dont even know if its on that car.
 
The box seal kit plus the control valve seal kit? I was hesitant to tackle the control valve.

Kits usually have all the o-rings and seals. If you are going to pull the PA valve assembly, be sure to carefully scribe its location and put it back exactly were you found it and you should not have any problems. Gear still has plenty of adjustment left as noted above, check the input shaft for excessive end play before springing for a new seal kit. If the input shaft has any wobble or a lot of end play, the unit should be rebuilt.

Dave
 
where is that biscuit located? I remember having on on my van and I think my coronet, but I havent seen it in the 67 newport yet...dont even know if its on that car.

Not all Cbods have it. Cars with an intermediate shaft have it, but I can't tell you which ones do or don't. I can tell you that it's hidden by the round heat shield "can" just a few inches away from the firewall as seen in the pic below. The can protects the OEM rubber biscuit from manifold (or header) heat, but not for 48 years. I'd wager that EVERY original, old biscuit is in four loose pieces like mine.

You can see the new, shiny black Bouchillion biscuit inside. Aluminum won't dry rot!

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My box was loose and leaking, so I recently installed the Stage 1 FF box, along with the Bouchillion solid aluminum "rag joint rubber biscuit coupler thingy" (mine was totally destroyed into four pieces, lots of slop), and I'm very happy with the results. The tiniest bit of wheel movement steers the car. I also rebuilt the pot coupler, and I recommend using the clamp, as seen in the bottom photo. You'll never get the cap back on correctly! New hoses, too.

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Clean, and it works.
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Nice work!!!
 
I have read numerous recommendations here for Firm Feel steering box. Looks like their cost $379 for a box. Steer & Gear charges $320 and seems to offer similar service. Has anyone used S&G?

By box was leaking pretty bad before I took apart my front end. It was so caked up, that it was hard to figure out where the leak was (car was not driven for over 30 years), so I think I do not want to spend time diagnosing and just get a quality unit to replace.

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While you have the gear out, check the frame rail just to the rear of the upper control arm mount, are those rust holes or just dirt? (Mount point for brake warning valve bracket and just to the rear of it)

Dave
 
That part of the frame is OK. But not this part. I am still trying to figure out if I should cut and replace or get a whole new stub frame.

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That part of the frame is OK. But not this part. I am still trying to figure out if I should cut and replace or get a whole new stub frame.

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It would probably be better since the stub is already out to replace it. Go over the whole thing with a hammer and see if there are any other "soft" spots. These frames in salt country often rusted from the inside out due to salt solution getting inside of the rails. Trying to weld these things leaves the metal bare on the inside and much more likely to rust out quickly. The other issue is that certain curved areas of the frame are designed to have some flex to them so that the rails do not crack. Welding weakens the metal and can promote stress cracks.

Dave
 
I've used both and have never heard a bad word about FirmFeel. Steer n Gear did the box in my '57 and $450 later, it leaked when I got it back. Funny, it didn't leak when I sent it to them.

FirmFeel gets my vote.
 
It would probably be better since the stub is already out to replace it. Go over the whole thing with a hammer and see if there are any other "soft" spots. These frames in salt country often rusted from the inside out due to salt solution getting inside of the rails. Trying to weld these things leaves the metal bare on the inside and much more likely to rust out quickly. The other issue is that certain curved areas of the frame are designed to have some flex to them so that the rails do not crack. Welding weakens the metal and can promote stress cracks.

Dave

Too much heat might also make the metal too brittle, which can also make it more prone to stress failures?
 
Too much heat might also make the metal too brittle, which can also make it more prone to stress failures?

Too much heat might also make the metal too brittle, which can also make it more prone to stress failures?

Auto frames are a fairly high carbon steel, welding tends to burn out the carbon at the point of the weld and the metal becomes brittle at the weld seams. That is why welds are often diagonal to stress points so the load is dispersed over a wider area. If you ever look at a truck frame that has been spliced, the gusset plates are diamond shaped at the center of the frame rail for that reason.

Dave
 
Well that sucks
-Will not work on 1966 & earlier C Bodys or B Bodys that had the original Rubber design (#3575303)
 
My first thought when opening that box would be... "SUCKER!"
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Well, when ya pay $125 for an aluminum hockey puck with four holes drilled in it (like I did, plus Next Day shipping), I could certainly be considered a "sucker". :icon_fU:

But I had the car apart and needed something fast...and it's much cheaper (and quicker) than the $250 OEM biscuit (which could be 50 years old) that's on EBay. So.......suk-kerrrrrr! :eek:
 
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