Beware of NOS? parts for sale, public service for new members

shooter65

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This post is mostly for members who are new to the hobby and/or C-Bodies.

Beware of ad's for NOS parts. I see this a lot, sometimes the seller may genuinely think they know what they have or they're just lying rat bastards trying to make a quick sale....

Here is an example of an ebay post that indicates NOS keys for 68 and 69. I can't verify if the ignition keys are correct for 68 but they're certainly not correct for 69.

The moral of the story is, just because someone advertises something, doesn't mean it's true.

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I agree with your premise . A hundred years ago my 69 Sport Fury had a square-ish key like that. To date it is the only one I've ever had. I never thought much about the correctness of it, certainly not in 1989.
 
The keys depicted are correct for a '68.

One of the frequent things I see with NOS C Body parts is sellers listing that the part applies to all C Body models for a given year, which usually is not the case. Unlike the A and B Body cars, there were a lot of differences between the Chrysler, Dodge and Plymouth C Body cars. A perfect example is the remote control side view mirrors and the matching right door mirror. These are '71 only and the Plymouth Fury mirror has a different base than the Chrysler/Dodge mirror and while they look like the '72-73 mirrors, again the base is different as the shape and contours of the doors varied between models and the years.
 
You have to know exactly what you are looking at. I buy a lot of NOS ignition parts and it is amazing what gets passed of as NOS when it should be NORS. Its the small details that tells the story. Boxes are not the part.
 
NOS parts in unopened boxes or other packaging can be broken......Chrysler was notorious for lousy packaging or none at all.

And yes old warranty returns put back in the old boxes are junk but were sometimes put back on the shelves.
 
Another crappy selling point , people will put a original box in the background . You would assume the part is NOS, but just a switch and bait.
 
I have sent more then a few messages to sellers correcting them on their listing, I usually get back a "mind your own business" type response, or or no change to the listing.
 
I purchased a "NOS" turn signal lens with them showing the box in the ad....I got a lens that had stress cracks in it from being mounted...and no box. Pretty sure it was used...decent shape but I highly doubt NOS. At least it was only 25$ and still better than mine. Later I did get a real NOS that is obviously new in the original box.
 
As for Chrysler OEM keys, I believe there are differences in the head of the key, from year to year, either in shape or logos. BUT be sure to match the letter stamped into the shank to ensure that it matches what's now in the car and works. The letter defines the slots in the key blank, width and spacing, which matches the tangs in the key cylinder that allow the key to "fit" and slide into the cylinder. Plus whether the blank is for the doors, ignition switch, etc.

To me, matching the letter code would be the first thing I'd look to do. Then worry about the correct head style/shape for the model year of the car . . . verifying what you need from factory literature illustrations (hopefully) or prior knowledge.

In the realm of GM keys, each one has the letter code ID on them. Then each letter code blank can have several different heads on them. For example, a "H" door blank on a Chevy application would be the normal rounded head, but on a Buick "H" blank, that one had a large head that made it easier to hold and turn. Each one would work in the cylinder, just the different head size/style for the particular carline application. The 1957 Briggs&Stratton "A" blank could be replaced with a 1970s "A" blank, which is thinner, but still fits the "A" blank cylinder of '57 although the thicker "A" will not fit where the thinner later model "A" would fit, due to its shank thickness. Might need some trimming of the square head (the '70s key) to fit the '57 ignition cylinder, too.

To me, ALWAYS verify that a part is actually an unused, not installed, part BEFORE paying the premium price for it. Especially if you're chasing a date coded item or similar. NOS = OEM, NORS = Aftermarket Replacement Part, not factory, but sometimes better, depending upon the orig brand.

Always, do YOUR research. If you have any doubts, don't purchase until you're absolutely sure of what you need and are getting. And on "mail order" sites, ALWAYS read and understand their Return Policy BEFORE spending any money--period.

Many times, I tend to "over-shop" before making a purchase. But when I do, I'm confident in what I need and am getting. I might miss a few parts because of this additional scrutiny, but so be it.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
This post is mostly for members who are new to the hobby and/or C-Bodies.

Beware of ad's for NOS parts. I see this a lot, sometimes the seller may genuinely think they know what they have or they're just lying rat bastards trying to make a quick sale....

Here is an example of an ebay post that indicates NOS keys for 68 and 69. I can't verify if the ignition keys are correct for 68 but they're certainly not correct for 69.

The moral of the story is, just because someone advertises something, doesn't mean it's true.

View attachment 270422
See me at Carlisle, I'll be letting go of some of my accumulation... which crossed the line into ridiculousness a while ago.

AFAIK, there is no way to sort all of the Mopar keys knocked off over the years. If the quality is good and the lines are crisp, call it OEM. I've seen some that appear to be cast, high quality casting just won't be as crisp.
As for Chrysler OEM keys, I believe there are differences in the head of the key, from year to year, either in shape or logos. BUT be sure to match the letter stamped into the shank to ensure that it matches what's now in the car and works. The letter defines the slots in the key blank, width and spacing, which matches the tangs in the key cylinder that allow the key to "fit" and slide into the cylinder. Plus whether the blank is for the doors, ignition switch, etc.

To me, matching the letter code would be the first thing I'd look to do. Then worry about the correct head style/shape for the model year of the car . . . verifying what you need from factory literature illustrations (hopefully) or prior knowledge.

In the realm of GM keys, each one has the letter code ID on them. Then each letter code blank can have several different heads on them. For example, a "H" door blank on a Chevy application would be the normal rounded head, but on a Buick "H" blank, that one had a large head that made it easier to hold and turn. Each one would work in the cylinder, just the different head size/style for the particular carline application. The 1957 Briggs&Stratton "A" blank could be replaced with a 1970s "A" blank, which is thinner, but still fits the "A" blank cylinder of '57 although the thicker "A" will not fit where the thinner later model "A" would fit, due to its shank thickness. Might need some trimming of the square head (the '70s key) to fit the '57 ignition cylinder, too.

To me, ALWAYS verify that a part is actually an unused, not installed, part BEFORE paying the premium price for it. Especially if you're chasing a date coded item or similar. NOS = OEM, NORS = Aftermarket Replacement Part, not factory, but sometimes better, depending upon the orig brand.

Always, do YOUR research. If you have any doubts, don't purchase until you're absolutely sure of what you need and are getting. And on "mail order" sites, ALWAYS read and understand their Return Policy BEFORE spending any money--period.

Many times, I tend to "over-shop" before making a purchase. But when I do, I'm confident in what I need and am getting. I might miss a few parts because of this additional scrutiny, but so be it.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
GM blanks are much easier to figure out than Mopar IMO. For reasons I cannot fathom, throughout history Mopar had a lot of unique keyway grooves. As older grooves went obsolete, the replacement lock cylinders often were made in the current-at-the-time grooves... which can make for a real mess for folks trying to match stuff.

I'm far from an expert, but have tried to figure this out as much as I could on my own. A truly seasoned locksmith could probably still teach me a bunch, but I don't find much accurate information for stuff older than 1969. There is a certain amount of figuring out required to work the older stuff, and I think 71 had a unique secondary key groove, IIRC.

I too tend to "over shop", but then a bulk bargain floats to the surface and I tend to go for the gamble. Some have been busts, but plenty of wins too. The thing about obsolete stuff that sucks, is how many azzoles are out there who don't care a bit about hiding details and misleading a potential buyer... If I pick up on the squirrel vibe from them, I usually just abandon the deal on the spot.
 
Thanks for everyone's comments. A couple points, 1 - I'm not looking to purchase keys at this time, this was just a good example of the point I was trying to make. 2 - I didn't report this because Ebay will seldom do anything about this because they don't know who is right, the seller or the person reporting it, and they'll always side with the seller because it's better for their bottom line if they have more items for sale/sold. Caveat Emptor. My only purpose for this post is that I've seen a large number of new members, many who have stated they have just purchased there first C-Body or classic car. I think the best part of this forum is the opportunity to learn about the cars and the hobby in general.
 
With all pf the NOS that is used on the BoaB, the rejects are in a. Tote in the basement.
Some parts are warranty defects that were not claimed properly and put back in the box. Years go by the dealership goes belly up and everything is auctioned off. Including the part in that box that is assumed to be NOS.
NOS that is not on the box or wrapping I learned to be leary of.
Electrical stuff that had sat around and in the box tend to not work very well or not work at all. I have a NOS hazard flasher that does not work properly.
It is buyer beware and it may be NOS but it IS old.
 
Some of what you might be calling "warranty returns" might not really be that, but "exchanges" made by mechanics in the shop, or even customers, who took the parts back to the parts counter and said "Sorry, didn't need this" to the parts dept operative. So it was then taken back and put in stock, without it being checked by the parts dept operative. Then returned to Chrysler on a parts return that also never got checked before it was sent to another dealer. Once at the end of that cycle, how's the new dealer going to back their claim that what they really received was a used part? So, it collects dust on the shelf until . . . .

That's ONE reason that dealerships don't take electrical return parts. We even stopped allowing techs to "bench check" a possibly bad part against a new one (from parts stock). Just in case the vehicle had another issue that caused the electrical failure in the first place, but NOW on the new part "they didn't need", as they THEN found the real issue.

I don't know what the prior parts return policies were with Chrysler in the prior times, but as I understand it, pretty much zilch at the present time. Dealer buys it from FCA, if not needed or it can't be sold to another dealer, it's "shelf stock".

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
Obvious information, but in today's market it's worth re- mentioning.

When "NOS" parts were only 10 or 15 years old, it wasn't such a big deal. Now some this stuff is 40+ years, even 50 years old, is it worth the risk?
A honest seller would be testing parts, especially vacuum pots and choke breaks, and standing by what they offer....especially at today's prices.

Thanks for reminding us "newbies".
 
Rubber dry rots. For every 10 vac advances I buy nos three are bad or fail during testing. One of the reasons guys that are doing numbers correct cars have a ton of money into them.
 
I have sent more then a few messages to sellers correcting them on their listing, I usually get back a "mind your own business" type response, or or no change to the listing.

Exactly. Why are people so arrogant?
I found what was advertised as an NOS gas tank sender on ebay last year, and asked the seller what the ohm readings were at each end of the float arm travel. One could easily do this in 10 seconds.
"part is new in box" was the response. I asked nicely again. Same response. He could have said "Sorry I don't have a meter here".

Then I noticed that the brass float had oxidation lines on it clearly indicating that it had been in use. I pointed this out to him, asked again for the resistance reading, and asked if he was sure it was never used, and got back a scathing reply. The s.o.b. then posted new photos of the unit with the brass float appearing to have been hastily cleaned with 50 grit sandpaper.

I'm still limping along with the repro unit from Vans auto that doesn't read right...
 
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