Aftermarket transmission pan thoughts wanted

Triple Pickle

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I stumbled across this pan while looking for something else the other day. I’m thinking about putting it on my 72 Polara when I put it back together.
Does anyone have any experience or opinion on these? Is the filter spacer necessary? I assume that the stock dipstick is retained and that the level of the fluid is the same, just more quantity? If that is correct, why move the filter down towards any bad stuff that might accumulate in the bottom of the pan?
I’ll be running a very mild 360 build and this is probably overkill but, I’ve got it and it couldn’t hurt, right?

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I stumbled across this pan while looking for something else the other day. I’m thinking about putting it on my 72 Polara when I put it back together.
Does anyone have any experience or opinion on these? Is the filter spacer necessary? I assume that the stock dipstick is retained and that the level of the fluid is the same, just more quantity? If that is correct, why move the filter down towards any bad stuff that might accumulate in the bottom of the pan?
I’ll be running a very mild 360 build and this is probably overkill but, I’ve got it and it couldn’t hurt, right?

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I believe the filter is also the point where fluid is picked up and pumped throughout the tranny so it’s ideal for it to be fully submerged. Aluminum panshould dissipate heat quicker than sheet metal, and the extra capacity is a good thing, plus having a drain plug is always helpful..
 
The level of the filter relative to the bottom of the inner pan surface MUST be maintained lest it become uncovered during cornering, braking, or acceleration. It should not be any closer than it currently is, if you're worried about "stuff" down there.

The cast aluminum might be more resistant to distortion from over-torqueing pan bolts, so pan gasket integrity might be enhanced. Just like on aluminum valve covers. BUT if the pan is tightened correctly, no problems.

Unless you're building LOTS of heat in the trans (i.e., trailering through the mountains with a full-gcvw trailer), probably more for looks than anything else.

Do NOT forget about losing that inch or so of ground clearance! If that might matter. Rather than bending, should an impact occur, it'll fissure and crack, resulting in fluid exits, right then.

Your value judgment.

CBODY67
 
I’ve used these thick flange aluminum pans several times. Pricey when new, but they don’t leak nearly as bad as the metal pans. A little RTV on slightly longer bolts as well. Yes you need the spacer to get the pick up down lower in the pan. If using a stock metal pan there are some quality aftermarket gaskets now. Far superior to the cork or rubber crap sold in local parts stores.
 
Looks to be the same depth as OEM but you'd have to measure. Being aluminum w/the fins cooling should be improved. Better sealing too but since it's used check it with a strait edge for warps.
 
The level of the filter relative to the bottom of the inner pan surface MUST be maintained lest it become uncovered during cornering, braking, or acceleration. It should not be any closer than it currently is, if you're worried about "stuff" down there.

The cast aluminum might be more resistant to distortion from over-torqueing pan bolts, so pan gasket integrity might be enhanced. Just like on aluminum valve covers. BUT if the pan is tightened correctly, no problems.

Unless you're building LOTS of heat in the trans (i.e., trailering through the mountains with a full-gcvw trailer), probably more for looks than anything else.

Do NOT forget about losing that inch or so of ground clearance! If that might matter. Rather than bending, should an impact occur, it'll fissure and crack, resulting in fluid exits, right then.

Your value judgment.

CBODY67
I understand what you’re talking about on the cornering, with the sloshing around of the fluid. The added depth was another concern of mine as far as ground clearance. I’ll have to see if it looks too low before a put it on permanently.
 
That looks exactly like the no-name pan I'm using. Larger capacity than the stock pan, but still doesn't hang down below the frame crossmember so fairly well protected against damage. I didn't trust the spacer to not leak, so I found one the same length that was billet aluminum with O-rings around the fluid passage where it attaches to the VB and filter. The drain plug on mine had a magnet attached to the end. If yours doesn't, I recommend gluing a magnet to the bottom of the pan in a corner that's not in the way of the filter or dipstick.
 
It’s about 1” deeper inside, and 1.50” overall. It’s a heavier than I expected it to be, might be magnesium?

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I stumbled across this pan while looking for something else the other day. I’m thinking about putting it on my 72 Polara when I put it back together.
Does anyone have any experience or opinion on these? Is the filter spacer necessary? I assume that the stock dipstick is retained and that the level of the fluid is the same, just more quantity? If that is correct, why move the filter down towards any bad stuff that might accumulate in the bottom of the pan?
I’ll be running a very mild 360 build and this is probably overkill but, I’ve got it and it couldn’t hurt, right?

View attachment 270752

View attachment 270753

View attachment 270755
Thats correct. You can use the OEM dipstick and refill to the dipstick marks. The spacer is needed as the oil Filter should be at the deepest point of the pan to avoid suck in air..additional benefit decreasing the temperature. Use a gasket between the spacer and valvebody.
 
I used the pan off a Ram 48RE on my New Yorker. I think it's just maybe a wee bit deeper than the finny/cast model shown above and adds at least an additional 2 quarts fluid capacity. Mag Hytec includes a filter spacer for their pan that went back on the truck. It looked like it would be fairly trivial to machine a spacer out of a chunk of aluminum, but the added capacity is the big draw for me. It's not an issue unless you're letting it run low.
 
I understand what you’re talking about on the cornering, with the sloshing around of the fluid. The added depth was another concern of mine as far as ground clearance. I’ll have to see if it looks too low before a put it on permanently.
The early 727 filters had those two holes cut on the valve body side for better oil movement exiting the filter into the valve body. Later 727 filters did not have those two holes in them. I can't remember if they were Fel-Pro or Victor-Rentz but both filterz carried the same part Number, with and without the holez.?.?.? Hang the aluminum pan with just 4 bolts on the 4 corners and just snug 'um up and put a straight edge on the cross member and see where you are ONE TO THE OTHER with the Aluminum Pan. If you're even an inch lower then the cross member I wouldn't worry about it. Az long az your running level without the front end "dropped". Then you might have issues with the cross Member too? FYI, I bought an aluminum "DEEP DISH 727 pan from Summit several yearz ago. Had my Machine shop carve 1 1/2"s out of the middle top to bottom and then had the top and bottom halves welded together (inside and outside ALL THE WAY AROUND" and then had the mating surface to the 727 machined flat again because I knew that welding it would warp it AND IT DID, lol. Go on Summits web site and see what they get for their Deep Dish Aluminum 727 pan and then do some guess work on the machining, double welding and Machining again and you'll get an idea how much I liked that Pan on the Batwagonz 440+727. I will say that an Aluminum Pan on your 727 iz much easier to get to seal then ANY sheet metal stamping WILL EVER BE. 'Cuz if its flat it stayz flat. Want the best 727 Pan gasket on the planet? Contact Tennessee Gasket and score one of their 727 Red Silicone Beauty's. If Jeff "Can'flip" down in Orlando readz this I'm sure you'll have another testimonial on their Gaskets. Just inch pound torq to their specs and never worry about it leaking... EVER AGAIN, Jer
 
What's the serial number on the driver's side of the valve body?
If Scott passes I might be interested
Who was the VB done by?
Use the pan.
 
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What's the serial number on the driver's side of the valve body?
If Scott passes I might be interested
Who was the VB done by?
Use the pan.
I'll let you know when I get it. Triple Pickle got it with a transmission he bought, didn't even know he had it! I figured it would work great in my Dart.
 
I install one of these after market fill plugs in all my mopar tranny pans.....

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I install it just below the dipstick tube, works great with a lot less mess when servicing the tranny.

FYI a magnesium pan would be lighter then aluminum....;)
 
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