1975 440 block - need help determining if I should buy it

[Biggredd2069]

I have a 383 in my 68 Newport convertible with 727 transmission. Getting it fixed up right now and no real problems but thinking about doing a long term garage project to get more power. Guy has a 1975 440 block for sale that looks pretty clean, he doesn't know what it came out of. Here is a pic and what is printed on it. Would this be a good project block to consider? Yes no maybe so?

 

[Davea Lux]

The '75 block is of the later style with the stronger side rails incorporated into the sides of the block. Should also have the improved heavier mount tabs and the heavier main web castings. That is all good. There should be a machined plate on the passenger side of the block just above the pan line that will have the vehicle VIN number stamped on it, that should give you an idea as to what this engine came out of. If you are serious about buying this block for a project, be sure to mic the bore size, it is basically junk if it is already .060 over. Also check the entire casting for cracks. These blocks were usually pretty sturdy but someone tore it down and then decided not to rebuild it, why? Do your due diligence.

Dave

 

[Biggredd2069]

Good point about why do they have it and why selling it

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Does it have the main caps? Other wise it is more $ to get new ones and the machine work to fit them.

 

[Biggredd2069]

440 big block / accessories

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Last year for Thick Wall 440s was 1972 and I think the last year for Forged Crank Shafts was 1974 or maybe VISA-VERSA??? Either way you're playing with a Thin Wall Block Casting and a Cast Crank Shaft. If you don't get the original Main Caps and Crank Shaft with that block and have it PASS a Magna-Flux test before you lay your money down your wasting your time and Money. Theirs always the chance that it is a Thick Wall W/ Forged Crank Block that went into a Motor Home with the 6 pk. heavy rods as well, Best of the best. My thoughtz, Jer

 

[twostick]

Last year for Thick Wall 440s was 1972 and I think the last year for Forged Crank Shafts was 1974 or maybe VISA-VERSA??? Either way you're playing with a Thin Wall Block Casting and a Cast Crank Shaft. If you don't get the original Main Caps and Crank Shaft with that block and have it PASS a Magna-Flux test before you lay your money down your wasting your time and Money. Theirs always the chance that it is a Thick Wall W/ Forged Crank Block that went into a Motor Home with the 6 pk. heavy rods as well, Best of the best. My thoughtz, Jer

Jer that thin wall casting story has been proven to be a myth. Core shift is a bigger problem with them which will cause the bore to be really thick on one side and really thin on the other. A sonic test will tell you if the cylinders are uniform thickness.

Unless it was a manual trans engine, chances are if it has a crank with it, it will be cast which isn't as bad a thing as everyone let's on.

If it's a bare block with caps, and it passes the machine shop test, stroker kit is the most cost effective way to build it if you have to buy crank, rods and pistons.

4.25 stroke and .030 over gets you 505 for very little more than stock stroke rebuild price and from a power to $$$ standpoint is the cheapest upgrade you can make.

Kevin

 

[LocuMob]

The 400 block had thicker walls and whatnot later in it's production. The later 440 blocks are just as good as any older blocks, I don't care what people say, mainly to boost the prices IMO. When I worked at the parts store I asked every machinist who worked there and they all laughed when I brought it up. They are all just fine for boring out to .060" over, and you can make good power even with a cast crank. It might not last as long as a forged crank, but unless you're beating the snot out of the engine, it'll be just fine. IQ52 over on FABO shared his build where he used an RV 440 (cast crank, low compression) and threw in a .509 cam, some ported 516 heads, Victor intake and a Demon 850, and made over 500hp and over 550ft/lbs. You don't need an exotic 440 to build for streetable power. If you want to dump a ton of money into an engine to look cool, or tell your buddies how much it cost, go for it. I'll build an engine to scoot me along just fine and use the extra coin for gas.

As for the engine in question, I agree with @BIGBARNEYCARS and have them PROVE the engine is still good. No point buying a boat anchor when you don't need one. If they include the hoist, the other parts might make up for a bad block, but probably not.

 

[1978 NYB]

With the increasing costs of a machine shop it is just easier to buy a crate engine and get a warranty and have fun with a streetable engine. Like Scott said...no use in buying a boat anchor. It's just not about money but time is very valuable too.

 

[LocuMob]

And no use chasing this block.

 

[gyknot]

Buying an engine one piece at a time will nickle and dime you to death. No matter what engine it is.

 

[70bigblockdodge]

Buying an engine one piece at a time will nickle and dime you to death. No matter what engine it is.

Unless your not staying close to stock then your throwing out all the parts a bare block does not have crank/rods/pistons are all scrap heap pieces unless staying with stock rering.
Cast iron heads are cheap. Most of you guys will have more invested in those stupid manifolds.

 

[Newport 66]

IMHO, your 383 could be built to provide as much power as you need for a street car. But that's, of course entirely up to you. The other thought is you might be better off to locate a complete 440 and go from there. If you get a running or non running complete engine, you'd have all the major components to do a rebuild and be money ahead. Again just some thoughts. Good luck!!

 

[Biggredd2069]

All good things to consider. Thanks. Was just thinking of a long term garage build, all new parts. Something around 500 hp give or take. But something I could just take my time and save up for pieces at a time and built it solid the way I wanted to. I'm sure I could get the power out of the 383, just sucks losing it for the time to pull the engine vs building side by side while still driving the car.

 

[Newport 66]

All good things to consider. Thanks. Was just thinking of a long term garage build, all new parts. Something around 500 hp give or take. But something I could just take my time and save up for pieces at a time and built it solid the way I wanted to. I'm sure I could get the power out of the 383, just sucks losing it for the time to pull the engine vs building side by side while still driving the car.

If you lived in the upper midwest, you'd have winter to do the build, while its snowing and bitter cold.....lol.
That's why God made winter, to work on our cars and cycles.

 

[LocuMob]

All good things to consider. Thanks. Was just thinking of a long term garage build, all new parts. Something around 500 hp give or take. But something I could just take my time and save up for pieces at a time and built it solid the way I wanted to. I'm sure I could get the power out of the 383, just sucks losing it for the time to pull the engine vs building side by side while still driving the car.

I put in a 440 with a .484 cam and headers and it probably doesn't have much more (maybe even less) than the 383 4bbl in my other car. I think it would still be fun to have a 500+hp engine, but it isn't necessary for cruising around, short local trips, or across the country.

 

[CBODY67]

ONE thing concerns me about the picture . . . how LONG has the block been out of the vat? Devoid of its protective oily coatings and such. Much better to get a salvage yard engine (with ALL of the accessory brackets and such!) already on it (there WERE some differences in some model years!). Plus you get a factory-balance rotating assembly too. A stroker 400 should be easy to do, especially as almost every body else is chasing 440s.

It doesn't take 500 horsepower to push a C-body down the road nicely. If acceleration is your desire, then do a trans swap to a 6-speed or similar later TF, which will also need a 3.55 rear gear so the OD will work at normal highway speeds.

The OTHER thing is to build it with some decent highway fuel economy. Gas isn't going to be this cheap for ever. A shame to park the car because you can't afford gas to drive it as much as you might desire! Something in the 16-18mpg range would probably work, which is where most of the modern full-size suvs and 1/2 ton pickups probably are.

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

Jer that thin wall casting story has been proven to be a myth. Core shift is a bigger problem with them which will cause the bore to be really thick on one side and really thin on the other. A sonic test will tell you if the cylinders are uniform thickness.

Unless it was a manual trans engine, chances are if it has a crank with it, it will be cast which isn't as bad a thing as everyone let's on.

If it's a bare block with caps, and it passes the machine shop test, stroker kit is the most cost effective way to build it if you have to buy crank, rods and pistons.

4.25 stroke and .030 over gets you 505 for very little more than stock stroke rebuild price and from a power to $$$ standpoint is the cheapest upgrade you can make.

Kevin

I'm old Kevin so that should explain a lot. My first build waz ah Phord Flat Head in the Pre OHV-V8 dayz. And when we really got fancy we'd bolt ah 3 spd. Lincoln Zephyr tranz behind it ('cuz you couldn't break 'um) and ah Mechanical 2 spd. rearend down stream from that, lol

 

[Ripinator]

I'm old Kevin so that should explain a lot. My first build waz ah Phord Flat Head in the Pre OHV-V8 dayz. And when we really got fancy we'd bolt ah 3 spd. Lincoln Zephyr tranz behind it ('cuz you couldn't break 'um) and ah Mechanical 2 spd. rearend down stream from that, lol

Yep. Nothing like a 59-A flat head Merc. I had one in a '47 convertible. Had an Edmunds aluminum intake manifold on it with two Stromberg 2-barrel carbs. And a pair of Smitty glass packs to top it off. Nothing since has ever sounded as good to me.

 

[twostick]

I'm old Kevin so that should explain a lot. My first build waz ah Phord Flat Head in the Pre OHV-V8 dayz. And when we really got fancy we'd bolt ah 3 spd. Lincoln Zephyr tranz behind it ('cuz you couldn't break 'um) and ah Mechanical 2 spd. rearend down stream from that, lol

A Columbia 2 speed.

All that stuff is stylish again Jer, you can't be old! Lol

Kevin