First day out with Sport Fury. Not the best.

I definitely can tell ethanol versus pure gas. With ethanol, the car floods and weeps fuel from gaskets.

I drove it to work today with no problems. I am running no ethanol fuel.
I'm jumping on the It's Not The Ethanol bandwagon. I have no issues due to the Ethanol, but I have issues due to tuning, I've always felt the issue here is tuning related, and maybe some cleaning issues as well.

As stated, clean the carb again, and then again, there can be contaminates left in the small passages, blow them out thoroughly. Make sure it is clean enough to eat off of. Then go over it again. Then you can rule out that there is anything in the carb.

Ethanol eats rubber, that's what is bad for your fuel system, but it doesn't happen overnight, or a week. It occurs as time goes on. That's why they don't recommend E-85 fuel.for old cars, as it eats away the gaskets that are cork and rubber. Have at it with Multi Layer Steel gaskets. It's been in fuel here for as long as I can remember, and we have plenty of old cars running it without issue.

Stumbling on start off, that's not ethanol, that's tuning. Stalling on a turn, that's not ethanol.

Unless you are running fuel out of a temporary can, and switching between 10% ethanol and non ethanol, how can you tell the difference? If it's in the tank, you'd have to run it dry, and that probably hasn't happened yet.

Get a new fuel filter by all means, try the clear one until you get this figured out, you'll be able to see what is in the fuel, if there is anything in it. Make sure it's tuned properly, check both timing and vacuum, and use what feels best. Check your float level. Ethanol isn't going to cause one fuel to keep out of the gaskets. That to me tells me the carburetor isn't assembled tightly, the only time I've had that happen, a rebuild was in order and all it took was a new gasket and needle and seat assembly, and it ran great! ('72 W200 with a 318, pureed like a kitten on ethanol)

You're almost there, but need a little fine tuning and maybe a few bolts tightened on the carb.
 
check both timing and vacuum

3f2.jpg
 
Unfortunately for us, these cars were not designed with today's operating environment in mind. They can be made to run well, but it is frustrating and tricky. Were I you, I would shelve daily driver plans for awhile and just look at it as a project with a couple challenges for you.
Maybe not, but they can be tuned just as easy as any other older car, and be as reliable as today's cars. It may be a skill that is fading to time, but it isn't voodoo. As long as it's stock, there are only so many things to tinker with. Adding a lumpy cam, headers and other bits that make power, make tuning more difficult.

That's because you have no experience with this particular situation. The fact that good-running cars don't have problems is no newsflash. Mine ran well in stock form for awhile too.

Your point here is what? James car is set to stock, and you're pointing no problems when your car was stock, so why blame the fuel? I run a 440 with a .484 cam, headers, 3.55's in the rear, no fuel related issues other than running out of gas. James car should drink it down like water.

So what is your suggestion - do nothing? BTW, I'm not "people." My name is Nadir Point, to you. But don'y worry about addressing me any further. Sometimes I wonder why I participate in these forums at all.

His suggestion was, don't blame the fuel, try something else.

Hi Nadir, I'm Scott. We come to these forums to share our thoughts, ideas, and progress with other like minded individuals. (Not all of us like sharing our personal information with the world, so we use made up names, it's irrelevant what name we use here, it truly is.) Do we always agree, no! But we usually can help someone find what's wrong when they ask. I don't know any more about this situation than what James has told us, and I based my responses off my previous situations that were similar.

We will never all see things the same as long as there is more than one opinion, that's just the way the world works. Stick around, it'll be okay.
 
Last edited:
Joe, you have to concentrate on one thing. 90% of carburetor problems are ignition related.
You need to adjust your timing and points. Pay no attention to factory specs on the fender. Adjust the timing by ear, advance it with vacuum advance disconnected so you get the highest smoothest idle. Readjust your points and then timing again. Then get the idle back down, and take it for a ride. Stand on it a couple of times, no pinging or knocking, your good. If it pings and knocks under load you will have to back it off a bit.
 
Harbor Freight (if there's one near you) sells a vacuum gauge for $14 with all the whizzbangs and doodads to connect to pretty much any vacuum port on your car
Better buy at least three, that way, maybe you'll get one that actually works.
 
Better buy at least three, that way, maybe you'll get one that actually works.
When people start realizing the majority of tools on the market are made in the same place, hopefully that stigma will no longer be a talking point.
 
I dont buy anything from HF.

Snap-on or Craftsman except for some speciality tools.
 
I dont buy anything from HF.

Snap-on or Craftsman except for some speciality tools.
I usually buy throwaways from there, stuff that I don't need to count on. It's also right next to my wife's work, and the only Sears is inside our Mall, full of teenagers and boot Marines.

I'll go with cheap tools.
 
Carb was rebuilt, wasn't it? All new fuel everything from the tank forward? That would suck to have one fail this soon out of the kit.
It's a reman unit.

I see a pretty major amount of gasoline coming out of throttle shaft, base gasket. Also, PCV port when I pulled the hose off to properly route wiring harness. That was this morning. Car hasn't been started since I parked it yesterday.

I'm off work today. Changed out leaky oil pressure switch. Replaced leaking gas cap with a locking unit. Getting ready to pull carb.

For those not familiar-fuel tank, fuel lines and filter are all new. I did screw up and run the reman carburetor in the old fuel tank which was in very poor shape.
 
It's a reman unit.

I see a pretty major amount of gasoline coming out of throttle shaft, base gasket. Also, PCV port when I pulled the hose off to properly route wiring harness. That was this morning. Car hasn't been started since I parked it yesterday.

I'm off work today. Changed out leaky oil pressure switch. Replaced leaking gas cap with a locking unit. Getting ready to pull carb.

For those not familiar-fuel tank, fuel lines and filter are all new. I did screw up and run the reman carburetor in the old fuel tank which was in very poor shape.
That carb sounds like it was set together, and they forgot to tighten the bolts! Some carb cleaner should clean up that old gas. Wonder how the gaskets are.
 
That carb sounds like it was set together, and they forgot to tighten the bolts! Some carb cleaner should clean up that old gas. Wonder how the gaskets are.
I have had the top off to check float level, etc. That particular gasket is ok. I treated it with kid gloves.
 
Engine has always ran high end of normal. I see airflow obstruction here . This is the condenser coil.

Installing an overflow container. I repaired a coworker's smart watch at no charge. He decided to get me an overflow. It's Dorman part number 603-001. About the size of the windshield washer container.

IMG_20190329_143015486.jpg
 
Engine has always ran high end of normal. I see airflow obstruction here . This is the condenser coil.

Installing an overflow container. I repaired a coworker's smart watch at no charge. He decided to get me an overflow. It's Dorman part number 603-001. About the size of the windshield washer container.

View attachment 273513
:wtf:
 
Back
Top