Getting the best look from a subpar paint job

[WissaMan]

The paint quality on our car is not that great. It was obviously repainted at some point in it's past and also had some substandard body work done in some spots. Future plans are to get it redone at a quality shop, but in the meantime, I'd like to get it looking as good as I can.

I'm not exactly sure if the paint is very oxidized or if it's just crappy paint, but it has no shine. I did polish it in two spots with two different polishes (Nu Finish and something from Meguire's). Neither really made a big difference, but the Nu Finish seemed to work a bit better.

Can anyone suggest a course of action? Would a power buffer perhaps be a good investment to make for this task?

 

[Zymurgy]

This may work for you. I have had good results using this process on heavy oxidized paint. 1st a real variable speed rotory buffer, 7 / 9 inch, not one of these vibrating sponge types. I am a strong believer in 3M Imperial compound. It is a medium compound and have had excellent results with this.

You must be careful with this buffer you can burn through paint especially if the paint on there is questionable. You will be fine on the flat surfaces it is the edge where you can have issues. As a beginning I would lay down some blue masking tape on the edges until you feel confident in your ability. Also go to a body supply store or NAPA for buffing pad. They would probably have the Imperial compound too. You can shop online but a good body supply shop can give you advice.

This is the style of buffer I have, had it for over 15 years. DEWALT 12 Amp 7 in./9 in. Variable Speed Polisher-DWP849 - The Home Depot

This is the kind of pad I use. 3M Superbuff Buffing Pad (05703) 9 Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001445AU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N5EWCbD389998

 

[MarPar]

 

[Triple Pickle]

I’d try a medium compound by hand in a few places before I bought a buffer. You can hand buff say, half of the deck lid and get an idea what your dealing with. Make sure to wash it with a good wax removing car soap first and stay in the shade.

 

[BLUPORT]

Plasti-Dip.

 

[WissaMan]

Yep, sit back with some popcorn and watch the show! lol

That 3M stuff is pricey, but I guess "the good stuff" often is. Would I follow up this stuff with another compound to get it even better? I was kinda expecting this would be a multi-step process, but if not, I'm fine with that!

I'll probably get some of that and give it a try by hand and see what kind of results I get. If it works but takes a lot of effort, then I'll be looking at a decent quality buffer.

Not sure I understand the reference to Plasti-Dip? Isn't that a rubbery coating??

 

[Zymurgy]

I would get another compound that takes out 2,500 grit swirls. I don't have a favorite there, the 3M is definitely worth the price don't use straight 3m rubbing compound too stong.

Then apply your favorite wax.

 

[rapidtrans]

Paint cut and buff

If you're up for some work!

 

[WissaMan]

Okay, just so I'm clear, when I search on 3M Imperial Compound, I find: 3M™ Marine Compound and Finishing Material | 3M United States
3M™ Marine Compound and Finishing Material

Is that the same thing you're referring to?

Then would this be a good second stage after the Imperial compound? 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish Swirl Mark Remover, swirl remover, car polish
(I figure I'd stick with 3M)

Then of course, for a final wax, 3M recommends: 3M polish, 3M ultrafina, ultra fine polish, 3m car polish, rotary polisher, finishing polish, final polish

I'd definitely be buying an electric buffer to do this

 

[Xenon]

If you have no experience using a power buffer I would suggest you not try dong this yourself...
Find a local auto detail shop and spend the 200/300 dollars and have them do it...
Let them know you understand it is an older car and they may rub thru in a couple spots...

However,, if you are hell bent on doing it yourself....
WET sand starting with 400 paper,, then 600 paper,, then 1000 paper.
Never use your fingers to hold the paper, use your whole hand...
Then use rubbing compound...
Then use polishing compound.. Then a swirl remover, something as Fill & Glaze ...
Then,, wax .... And not with a fast white powder wax.... Something as Simoniz Original Paste Wax ..

 

[MarPar]

Something as Simoniz Original Paste Wax ..

 

[rapidtrans]

Before going out and purchasing buffers, polishers and experimenting with different sanding grits, I’d have a local auto paint shop or detail shop look at the car as Xenon says. A couple hundy, you’re done and $$s ahead. The paint shop will better know just how much to cut the paint to get it to shine.
I did mine myself since I had the equipment and past experience. Wet sanding is also quite messy.

 

[Xenon]

I did mine myself since I had the equipment and past experience. Wet sanding is also guite messy.

Oh,, I left out the part about being messy,, a lot of work,, tiring, costly, and in general a PIA....
Wissa,,, You are going to spend the 200/300 dollars...
Now all you have to decide,,,,, is how....
Detail shop,, or supplies to mess up your car with .....

 

[Zymurgy]

Okay, just so I'm clear, when I search on 3M Imperial Compound, I find: 3M™ Marine Compound and Finishing Material | 3M United States
3M™ Marine Compound and Finishing Material

Is that the same thing you're referring to?

Then would this be a good second stage after the Imperial compound? 3M Perfect-It 3000 Machine Polish Swirl Mark Remover, swirl remover, car polish
(I figure I'd stick with 3M)

Then of course, for a final wax, 3M recommends: 3M polish, 3M ultrafina, ultra fine polish, 3m car polish, rotary polisher, finishing polish, final polish

I'd definitely be buying an electric buffer to do this

Yes it looks like the have renamed the Imperial to the Marine compound. This is definitely worth the money you can find it in the low 40s per bottle. I have used the Perfect it is fine, I have used cheaper products with the same result. Probably a 20 different waxes/sealer lots of desent products.

This is the second step compound I have been happy with, after applying the Imperial first, only $25 at Walmart.

 

[Zymurgy]

Just for clarification, I would never recommend a guy buff out a new paint job, until they have buffed out several cars. It sounds to me it would be the perfect car to start on. I have never burnt through paint and I am self taught before there were YouTube videos. I have been doing this for probably 25 years.

Here is what Goldie looked like after I buffed out drivers side of the hood. The orginal paint was so oxidized that I couldn't even tell it was metallic paint.

 

[rapidtrans]

Agreed.
This was a 2-part paint job done about twenty years ago. A year after painting it was wet sanded and polished. The sheet metal was soooo straight on this car the extra work was well worth it. Paint was glass smooth and far better than the factory paint from Baltimore Assy.

 

[Zymurgy]

Here is a very good article on taping. It is a bit of an over kill, but a very good idea for a beginner and some is essentially no matter how long you have done it.
What to Tape on a Car before Polishing Featuring Meguiar’s Professional Masking Tape | Ask a Pro Blog

 

[WissaMan]

All points taken. If a shop could do this whole thing for 200-300 that'd be a bargain in my book, but judging by the amount of work people are talking about here and labor costs these days, does that even seem realistic? Or will their experience and power tools make the job go much quicker for them?

I did stop at a detail shop already and asked them and they said there was nothing they could do to make bad paint look better. Then again, they didn't even go outside and look at the car so either they didn't have the desire or didn't have the talent to do it. There are others in the area I could check with. I could also check with some body shops, however, they are all usually so damn busy with collision repairs they might turn up their noses at something like this.

I'll do some asking around

 

[Zymurgy]

Good luck I've always been that guy that I'd rather spend the money on a new tool and try to learn a new skill, then pass it on to somebody else.

Now that being said it might be worth taking to a shop even if they can't get to it now, take a look at it, they may say no that paint job is beyond repair save you money for a new paint job.

 

[Big_John]

All points taken. If a shop could do this whole thing for 200-300 that'd be a bargain in my book, but judging by the amount of work people are talking about here and labor costs these days, does that even seem realistic? Or will their experience and power tools make the job go much quicker for them?

I did stop at a detail shop already and asked them and they said there was nothing they could do to make bad paint look better. Then again, they didn't even go outside and look at the car so either they didn't have the desire or didn't have the talent to do it. There are others in the area I could check with. I could also check with some body shops, however, they are all usually so damn busy with collision repairs they might turn up their noses at something like this.

I'll do some asking around

I think that you might not want to start out the conversation at a detail shop with "bad paint". I would just say that it needs to be cleaned up and ask them to have a look at the car. Let them figure out what to do. Chances are the shop you talked to didn't want to do an "old" car or deal with bad paint.

If you want to see what kind of work you would have to do yourself, do a search on YouTube for "oxidized paint" and you'll see about a hundred different ways to deal with it.

IMHO, a rotary buffer will do the job the fastest, but it also comes with the chance of doing the most damage. I've used one quite a few times myself and you can easily cut through the edges and add swirl marks. It takes some skill and there is a learning curve. If it were me, instead I would invest in a dual action polisher. This is a lot more versatile and something you'll use in the future. Lots of folks use these to apply waxes and polishes along with doing more with "fixing" of paint problems and imperfections. I have a Porter Cable version that I bought some years ago. A decent one can be had at Harbor Fright.
6 in. 5.7 Amp Heavy Duty Dual Action Variable Speed Polisher

From there, the polishing compound is kind of personal preference. I kind of like the Meguiar's stuff myself. This is more aggressive https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMGDHI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this is less aggressive
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003LMJP4Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Note the scale on the side of the bottle showing "faster cut".

BTW, just noticed your location. Been to Knoebel's a bunch of times. My wife's family used to have picnics there when they all lived near Nanticoke.