Garage Expand

[1970FuryConv]

My garage is 32 ft wide, stick built. Considering expanding from 2 car to 4 car, so I'd like to the expand the rear of the garage about 25' back. Floor is concrete with cinder blocks surrounding. Anybody add 800 square feet to a garage? What did it cost?

 

[Ripinator]

My garage is 32 ft wide, stick built. Considering expanding from 2 car to 4 car, so I'd like to the expand the rear of the garage about 25' back. Floor is concrete with cinder blocks surrounding. Anybody add 800 square feet to a garage? What did it cost?
View attachment 291431

I'm not sure, but realistically, it seems to me you are looking at a complete tear-down of the existing structure. Going out another twenty-five feet is going to require new trusses, roof, etc., and since you also need to tear down the back wall of the existing structure, you might as well bite the bullet and start from scratch. Here are a couple shots from my "Garage Mahal" build, where we extended the back wall of the house only three feet - not the twenty-five you are going for:

You can see the new replacement trusses in the foreground of this shot:

I don't know what the labor costs are in your area, but there is probably an app you can use to determine a cost estimate from the number of square feet, average labor rates, etc. Also, this kind of project ALWAYS costs more than you think it will. . . As you can see, we started out to build a garage and ended up tearing down half the house. . . You may want to review my "Garage Mahal" threads for more info.

 

[rkrochen]

It can be done and tied into the original garage which will save you money. It would depend on the condition and age of the original garage to determine if it is worth it. The ones I have seems done successfully made the addition with a much higher ceiling allowing them to put hoist in. Also you can look at separate entry doors as an option and just put a passage between the garages. You do have many options but for me I would price it out all the options before I made a determination. Keep us posted.

 

[shooter65]

My 2 cents..... Based on your description and the orientation of the car in the driveway, I assume your picture is of the back of the garage. You can certainly do it but I would recommend tearing off the roof and trusses and using new roof trusses which will significantly increase the cost.

If I understand you correctly, you're going to try to double the depth of the garage which means that if you don't replace the roof rafters, you'll be trying to put a "shed" type roof extension from the peak to the back wall. This would be approximately 37.5 feet. It looks like you're existing roof is a 4-12 pitch which means the rear part of the roof would be approximately a 2-12 pitch which is only 10 percent. I'd probably do 12" centers on those trusses because the flatter the roof, the more weight it will be exposed to. I'd also use Ice Dam underlayment on a roof with such a low pitch, further increasing the cost.

An additional caveat to this is that you won't be able to remove the back wall completely because it is carrying the entire weight of the original trusses and roof so you would need to put in header(s) for the access to the back part of the garage which would essentially be garage doors without the doors because it would be inside when done.

Please ignore if I've misunderstood your intention, goal.

Is it possible to double the width instead of depth? Much cheaper.

 

[1970FuryConv]

My 2 cents..... Based on your description and the orientation of the car in the driveway, I assume your picture is of the back of the garage. You can certainly do it but I would recommend tearing off the roof and trusses and using new roof trusses which will significantly increase the cost.

If I understand you correctly, you're going to try to double the depth of the garage which means that if you don't replace the roof rafters, you'll be trying to put a "shed" type roof extension from the peak to the back wall. This would be approximately 37.5 feet. It looks like you're existing roof is a 4-12 pitch which means the rear part of the roof would be approximately a 2-12 pitch which is only 10 percent. I'd probably do 12" centers on those trusses because the flatter the roof, the more weight it will be exposed to. I'd also use Ice Dam underlayment on a roof with such a low pitch, further increasing the cost.

An additional caveat to this is that you won't be able to remove the back wall completely because it is carrying the entire weight of the original trusses and roof so you would need to put in header(s) for the access to the back part of the garage which would essentially be garage doors without the doors because it would be inside when done.
Please ignore if I've misunderstood your intention, goal.
Is it possible to double the width instead of depth? Much cheaper.

Wow! You answer is superb! You did not misunderstand. I was thinking of doubling the depth of the garage. You were looking at the back of the garage. I think I need to look at enclosing that carport with roof already in place that is beside the original structure. Sounds like I could cut my costs in half, or better. Front view

Thanks all for your input. Don't have costs yet, but at least I have an idea about what to ask for.

 

[rags]

did this addition in 2001. 16x36 13ft ceiling. $15k i think. roof of the existing building had to be raised.

lift was a repo. $2600 installed. roofed over the existing roof, left.

altogether, the best money i've ever spent.

 

[Yeahrightgreer]

Considering expanding from 2 car to 4 car

Is that to add 2 more Mopars in the future?

 

[LocuMob]

Closing off that carport would be the cheapest way to go, just wall it off, the roof is already there.

 

[1970FuryConv]

did this addition in 2001. 16x36 13ft ceiling. $15k i think. roof of the existing building had to be raised.View attachment 291772View attachment 291773lift was a repo. $2600 installed. roofed over the existing roof, left. View attachment 291789 altogether, the best money i've ever spent.

Thanks Rags for the $ quote. And the large carport would have room for a lift. How did you find a repo lift? Do you put in the concrete pad first and then drill through it to install the lift?
As I've gotten older, bending down to lie on the ground and getting up to get another tool then bending down again is becoming a worse and worse problem.

Is that to add 2 more Mopars in the future?

Hi Greer. Have 2-car garage now. I have the 1970 Fury III white convertible, 1972 Fury III gold coupe, 2005 Mustang GT convertible (Made in USA). 1971 Fury is next. Then stable is complete.
Neighborhood cats come by and walk on hoods, glass, and trunks. Convertibles in garage now. Afraid of convertible top as scratch pad (not happened yet). Also, squirrels like to break acorns and eat on top of my intake manifold. I get to vacuum out pieces of shells. Expanded Garage would solve both problems and eliminate car shuffling every time I need to work on something.

 

[rags]

the large carport would have room for a lift. How did you find a repo lift? Do you put in the concrete pad first and then drill through it to install the lift?

i told my snap-on dealer i was looking for a specific lift. he made a phone call. that easy.

the lift is bolted to the floor with anchor bolts. your carport looks high enough for a lift. 12ft is the norm. looks high enough to lift the truck shown. looks like two twelve foot bays. drive-on is eleven ft. across. we own similar vehicles. black mustang convertibles store nicely under drive-ons.

if you divide cost by years use, the best return on investment is gotten by doing it a.s.a.p. being a person of limited means, i decided years ago that it would be better to invest in real estate FOR cars than in the cars themselves. better to have crappy cars and a place to store them than nice cars and no storage. hope you're able to get it done. you won't regret it.

 

[1970FuryConv]

i told my snap-on dealer i was looking for a specific lift. he made a phone call. that easy.View attachment 292127 the lift is bolted to the floor with anchor bolts. your carport looks high enough for a lift. 12ft is the norm. looks high enough to lift the truck shown. looks like two twelve foot bays. drive-on is eleven ft. across. we own similar vehicles. black mustang convertibles store nicely under drive-ons.View attachment 292132 if you divide cost by years use, the best return on investment is gotten by doing it a.s.a.p. being a person of limited means, i decided years ago that it would be better to invest in real estate FOR cars than in the cars themselves. better to have crappy cars and a place to store them than nice cars and no storage. hope you're able to get it done. you won't regret it.

Great info Rags
Getting some prices on the concrete pad now.

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

It's easy to calculate. One cubic yard on the delivery truck will give you 92 sq. ft. of 4" thick concrete on your new garage FLOOR and DO THAT FIRST, PAHLEEZ. And think seriously about an 18" "RAT WALL" around the entire circumference of the addition and you can calculate that too @ 4"X18"X the total running feet and use 92 sq. ft. for your calculation also. Do the math for 2 more inches thick @ the 4X4 sq. ft. for the 2 lift support areas on each 4X4 padz. All you have to do iz measure out where you want that lift to set? add 8, 9/16" anchor bolts+ nutz x washers and a 9/16 concrete drill bit after you set the two supports for the lift and you're well on your way. Want more? I'll shoot you ah few pix of my 20X50 stick build addition on the end of my existing 20X35 on my 2nd building in Austin, Tx. back in the '90s, Jer

 

[1970FuryConv]

It's easy to calculate. One cubic yard on the delivery truck will give you 92 sq. ft. of 4" thick concrete on your new garage FLOOR and DO THAT FIRST, PAHLEEZ. And think seriously about an 18" "RAT WALL" around the entire circumference of the addition and you can calculate that too @ 4"X18"X the total running feet and use 92 sq. ft. for your calculation also. Do the math for 2 more inches thick @ the 4X4 sq. ft. for the 2 lift support areas on each 4X4 padz. All you have to do iz measure out where you want that lift to set? add 8, 9/16" anchor bolts+ nutz x washers and a 9/16 concrete drill bit after you set the two supports for the lift and you're well on your way. Want more? I'll shoot you ah few pix of my 20X50 stick build addition on the end of my existing 20X35 on my 2nd building in Austin, Tx. back in the '90s, Jer

Am glad to have pics: PM me and send em. Or PM me and I'll give you my email. Thanks, Jer
Since I don't have a lift now, can the anchor bolts be drilled/installed after the concrete pad is laid down?
Rat wall is a good idea! Thanks. Don't need to keep out cats and squirrels, only to have other rodents burrow under.

Lithonia lighting LED, 4 foot Strip Light, 4500 lm, 50 W, 50,000 hour rated life, 4000 K
This is a small garage upgrade, but if anyone is having trouble seeing the socket measurements on the side of your sockets, it may not be your glasses. I had gotten to where I could go over to my toolbox, pull out my socket rack, but I couldn’t see the sizes. I was having to walk outside in the sunlight to see. So I installed one of these 4 foot LED light strips over my toolbox. They were about $40 each from Home Depot after my 10% veteran’s discount. The difference is like night and day. I walk over to my toolbox, and now I can see every tool size even on the quarter-inch sockets. I used 12/2 RomeX cable to install it. If you’re over 50 this is a highly recommended investment. I was impressed enough that I actually went and bought 2 more to really light up the area. Price is competitive with ebay sellers too.
The LED strips don't disconnect from the housing, which is a pain, but you can devise different ways to hold them up while you install housing and wires

Before

After

The wire way cover/light strip pushes onto the housing box. It has 3 slots on each side which match up to corresponding size bulges on the side of the housing. This does not work well for a firm attachment all the way around, but it's nothing small drilled holes and short screws can't fix.

 

[rags]

Since I don't have a lift now, can the anchor bolts be drilled/installed after the concrete pad is laid down?

that's how it's done. nice shop area. it's served you well.

 

[LocuMob]

Am glad to have pics: PM me and send em. Or PM me and I'll give you my email. Thanks, Jer
Since I don't have a lift now, can the anchor bolts be drilled/installed after the concrete pad is laid down?
Rat wall is a good idea! Thanks. Don't need to keep out cats and squirrels, only to have other rodents burrow under.

Lithonia lighting LED, 4 foot Strip Light, 4500 lm, 50 W, 50,000 hour rated life, 4000 K
This is a small garage upgrade, but if anyone is having trouble seeing the socket measurements on the side of your sockets, it may not be your glasses. I had gotten to where I could go over to my toolbox, pull out my socket rack, but I couldn’t see the sizes. I was having to walk outside in the sunlight to see. So I installed one of these 4 foot LED light strips over my toolbox. They were about $40 each from Home Depot after my 10% veteran’s discount. The difference is like night and day. I walk over to my toolbox, and now I can see every tool size even on the quarter-inch sockets. I used 12/2 RomeX cable to install it. If you’re over 50 this is a highly recommended investment. I was impressed enough that I actually went and bought 2 more to really light up the area. Price is competitive with ebay sellers too.
The LED strips don't disconnect from the housing, which is a pain, but you can devise different ways to hold them up while you install housing and wires
View attachment 292431
View attachment 292432
Before
View attachment 292433
View attachment 292434
After
View attachment 292439
View attachment 292443
View attachment 292451
The wire way cover/light strip pushes onto the housing box. It has 3 slots on each side which match up to corresponding size bulges on the side of the housing. This does not work well for a firm attachment all the way around, but it's nothing small drilled holes and short screws can't fix.

I got some LED lights similar to yours for my garage. I have four of them now, 4500lms, and they do a great job of lighting up the area. I'll be putting up two more I have when the garage gets it's new shingles installed. Best investment tool wise in the last few years, vision!

 

[BIGBARNEYCARS]

If you're building walls set 6"X1/2" anchor bolts 3 1/2"s every 30"s around the perimeter in the wet mud after you've floated it so you're happy with the flat surface you have. And use minimized 2"X4" bottom plates to build your walls with and they sell 4" wide roles of tar paper for installing under your bottom plates to prevent any condensation+moisture from getting the wood wet. Roll it out and spear your 1/2" wall anchors after the mud is dry and have a friend help you hold the 2X4 bottom plates and hit the 2X4 on top of every anchor bolt so you know exactly where to drill them before you you build the walls. With the two post lift you want minimum 2'X2'X6"thick mud under each post and 3'X3'X 6" iz even better with 8' MINIMUM spacing Between the posts and go 9/16"X 8" anchors an don't drill your holes 'til the mud is dry and you have the holes marked on the concrete by having both vertical beams in place on the 6" thick pads. AND PUT A PIECE OF DUCT TAPE AROUND THE CEMENT 9/16" DRILL 4"s UP FROM THE TIP so you won't go any deeper. Jer

 

[rags]

instructions from the two post.

they called for minimum four inches of concrete which i thought was bullshit. there's about eighteen inches of mud four feet around under this.

defies logic. eight inch anchors in four inches of concrete?

 

[1970FuryConv]

that's how it's done. nice shop area. it's served you well.

You can say that again. It has been an awesome garage. Garage and the carport were here when I purchased the house. Talk about love at first sight! Buying this house was a no-brainer. We saw the house and had a contract in 4 days.
Ready for the next project

Thanks Rags & Jer for all the tips. Given that I don't have a lift and don't know what lift I'll have: If the garage will be 20 feet wide by 32 feet deep, would I need to call a tool rep to find out where to thicken the pad or would I make parallel runners, 8 feet apart center to center, 3 feet wide, that were 6" deep with the rest of the pad 4" deep, pad sitting above the 4-6" gravel base? Trying to figure out how to keep my options open, because it might take a while to come up with a reasonably priced lift. I like the idea of the 4-post with the Mustang below the car on the lift, but I'm not set on anything. Thanks, Ben

 

[rapidtrans]

I’d go with a laminated beam with one center post to replace that load bearing wall. Then turn the new trusses perpendicular to the existing roof. Match the ridge and soffit lines and it’ll look like it was part of original bldg.

 

[1970FuryConv]

· Carpenter Bees: I have hit a small bump in the road. I saw some sawdust looking material along the outside wall of my garage at the carport. I thought it was carpenter ants, so I called in our exterminator. He looked carefully at how high the holes were in the carport's trim board and told me that I have Carpenter bees. The Carpenter bee population expands very slowly, and based on seeing a number of holes in these trim boards, he says that they have probably been here for a while. I had seen some bees around, and thought they might have a hive here, but I wasn’t expecting that, having never heard of Carpenter bees.

· This coming Wednesday, June 19, he’s coming back and I am going to pay something over $300 for him to fill each hole with insecticide and plug each hole, thus killing off the Carpenter bee population. If you don’t do this, eggs in the hole can hatch and they will come back the next year. They return to where they are born, so they’ll dig new holes.

· The way to keep them away is to prime and paint all untreated wood surfaces. So my next step is going to be prime and paint after the bees are all dead and their holes are plugged.

· PAINT QUESTION: I am wanting to use Kilz 2 primer and an exterior white. Does anyone know of an air compressor powered spray gun that can handle spraying Kilz 2?