440 Block checks out for Stroker build.

Turboomni, one thing I have not discussed with you that is just as important as your stroker kit selection. The torque converter. My recommendation is to what I did/was told to do. Find a used/core torque converter from a HEMI car. It will be an 11" converter with beefy mounting lugs. Call Lenny at Ultimate Converter (ultimateconverter.com), 704.892.6831. Tell him about your engine build, rear gear, weight of the car etc. and then ship him the HEMI core to work his magic on it. Trust me. I tried a different converter and it just slipped too much and while a HEMI core is not going to be cheap, overall, Lenny's price will be equal to or less than an off the shelf converter and you will have one custom built for your car. You rode it my car and it drives like a regular car around town and also does what I need it to do at the track or when really opening up the throttle on the street. Again, just my recommendation as many recommended that I talk to Lenny and have him build me a converter. FYI, the stock C Body converter is a 12".
 
I used an off the shelf Turbo Action 2800 stall from Mancini. I'm pretty sure it was 11" but not positive.

The ONLY reason I changed from the stock converter was because the MP509 didn't like to idle clean under 1100 and it banged the crap out of the driveline when you put it in gear. Other than that it made more than enough bottom end torque to haul 4800 lbs from a light in sporting fashion.

If the OP chooses a cam with factory 6pak type manners, he should be more than good with the stock converter.

Kevin
 
Thanks to everyone for your thoughts on this for my build. I really do appreciate it.
So what I have so far is this.

I would consider the trick flow head but am guessing the possible superior flow would be wasted with my HP manifolds so I think the Stealth heads will be the flavor of the day.[and cheaper] I will mention that the block be squared and zero decked.
I have thrown out the idea of a roller cam and call Mr Porter soon and possibly have him go over my Stealth heads for valve job mild porting if he think it needs it for my application.
Going to try the 73 spread bore stock intake with a few mods that I have been reading about. Guys on FBBO spoke highly of this manifold especially if you grind down the divider in the plenum to 5/8th inch for a quasi dual plane /single plane intake. Carb although I have some ideas is still up in the air.
The stroker kit will be 440 Source 512 cubic inch with the 4.25 stroke. I have read many good reports from guys that have used their stroker kits that use their engines far harder than I ever will. I will do more research on the lightened crank. I will ask to use a windage tray as I am sure 440 Source will have that.
Yes thanks for the link on torque converters FuryGT. I will give them a call for sure.
I think I am pretty well armed because of all your thoughts and knowledge for my meeting with my machinist. My main concern is getting the hard to reach stuff deep in the engine set as I can always change carbs ,intake and exhaust manifolds/headers [i doubt it] ,ignition and stuff later if I want. Just to be safe I may spring for a wide band O2 sensor. I am confident in the engine builder. He has been racing and building race engines for a long time and last year won the 2018 Summit Pro National Championship in Pomona CA. He built a stroker 565 chevy for the event in a 63 Cutlass.
Anyways wish me luck and thanks so much for your ideas and help. Any other ideas fire away as I would love to hear them. I will be seeing him later this week.
 
If your going with aluminum heads the switch to aluminum intake makes dollars and sense, staying with a cast iron intake for looks is a bad reason. When I suggested using the 73 that you have I was under the impression you were using cast iron heads. Make the switch to a Eddy performer RPM intake paint it engine color and it will hide nicely under the air cleaner and has stock coil mount on the front.
OOTB heads are not great period no matter the hype. If your going to have them looked at, might buy them bare and have a porting place work them over and finish them. Any heads that can be bought CNC finished are way ahead.
I will agree on the converter. Best money spent is right there in a automatic car. Although I'm not a fan of chasing old Hemi parts purely because of the $$$, it is easy to follow a worn path. I do think that a modern converter from a good builder will get you to the same place. Off the shelf is a crap shoot. Call a place like Dynamic, Ultimate, TurboAction etc., and have them Tailor a converter to your specs. Like a suit you have to have it tailored to fit just right, and you are walking a fine line, so it needs to fit right.
 
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You definitely will want a bung installed in the exhaust system so that the engine can be tuned with an exhaust analyzer. Suggest having the engine set up a touch on the rich side to compensate for those hot, humid poor air quality days we get in the summer.
 
I understand what you say on the cast iron intake manifold but was concerned about the height of the aftermarket intakes as I would like to use the stock dual snorkel air cleaner. Don't know if the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake will clear. Or will it?? If it is low enough that is easily doable with my budget now that a roller cam is off the table.
Will do on the tune to the rich side with the O2 sensor FuryGT. I will have to see what the offerings are these days on O2 sensor packages.
 
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I understand what you say on the cast iron intake manifold but was concerned about the height of the aftermarket intakes as I would like to use the stock dual snorkel air cleaner. Don't know if the Edelbrock Performer RPM intake will clear. Or will it?? If it is low enough that is easily doable with my budget now that a roller cam is off the table.
Will do on the tune to the rich side with the O2 sensor FuryGT. I will have to see what the offerings are these days on O2 sensor packages.

As an aside, I am not a fan of using a cast iron manifold with aluminum heads.

Depending on what carb you will use, just get a drop down base from Mancini. It is a smaller diameter so you will get fresh air from both the dual snorkels and from underneath.

You don't need an O2 sensor. You just need a bung/port in the exhaust system for a "tuner" to insert a probe from their exhaust analyzer.
 
Is that the air cleaner setup you use on the Fury you gave me a ride in??
 
So you would need an early style air cleaner with the snorkels on top rather than the later style where the snorkels are part of the base?
 
I think the lightened crank is a waste of money in your application. A lightened crank won’t make any more power. It might accelerate marginally faster but it might also not cruise as smoothly because it will change speeds in both directions more rapidly.

This is another case of the bulk of the speed parts out there being for different applications than ours.
 
Yes I was wondering if it would affect an idle or cruising as I want a rather smooth idle with maybe a 'hint' of lope and highish vacuum. The extra price is only 95 bucks but.
 
I’m not sure it would behave that way, but I’ve always thought that the nice, “long-legged” feel was a combination of extra power and relatively high rotating mass.
 
If it was mine...
TF240's
Headers
Rpm perf intake
MP .528 solid cam
Don't bother with the light crank
A 512-540" isn't going to mind that cam at all or the heads. You could probably even use a torker or Holly Street dominator intake. Maybe trick flow is making an intake now?
 
Contrary to popular belief, cubic inches have pretty much have zero effect on idle quality for a given cam. I figured the extra 53 cubes of my 493 would take some of the cackle out of the MP509 cam. Wrong! It fired on the dyno and loped hard at 1100 just like every 440 stock stroke I'd ever been around. I figured well it's going to make some power but it'll be a stone to 3500. Wrong again! Torque needle took a big swing at 1500 and was making 500 ft/lbs by 2000.

I asked my builder why the big lope with all the cubes and he said 76 degrees of overlap is 76 degrees of overlap, it would idle like that with 1000 cubes. The difference is the cubes will still make torque in spite of the poor running.

Kevin
 
If it was mine...
TF240's
Headers
Rpm perf intake
MP .528 solid cam
Don't bother with the light crank
A 512-540" isn't going to mind that cam at all or the heads. You could probably even use a torker or Holly Street dominator intake. Maybe trick flow is making an intake now?




I would definitely do Trick Flows if I was to use headers but I am not. As of now I may get the Edelbrock RPM intake if I can use the drop down base that FuryGT spoke of and clear my hood with a stock dual snorkel 69 air cleaner.
I am beginning to feel the light crank is also off the table. Cam I am at the mercy of you experts. The Holley Street Dominator kinda peaked my interest, as I looked at the advantages of the spread bore thermoquad designs. Small primaries and huge secondaries. Great for throttle response I would think. What I would like is a big car which she already is that is a cruiser ,great on the highway,[with rear gears to match 3.23] rather smooth idle with no "wanna race ?" lope,, that can if necessary get out of her own way surprisingly well. Low 13's ,,nice ,,high 12's OMG! And the motor has so little stress it will last till I don't know who I am anymore. Thanks alot for your thoughts furious70
 
Torque needle took a big swing at 1500 and was making 500 ft/lbs by 2000.

That's what I'm talkin about!! I want huge torque at low rpms, all the way to to 5000 rpms or more. This seems to be just the opposite of most engines today and I would like a taste of what these old school engines are capable of at the opposite side of the spectrum,,low end torque monsters naturally aspirated, not screaming their huge asses off at 7000 rpms for huge horse power. Nothing wrong with that and it is impressive as hell,but not my bag. 500 to 600 ft lbs between 2000 to 5000 rpms would float my boat good!:)

Gonna need a sure grip though,,,,
 
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I would definitely do Trick Flows if I was to use headers but I am not. As of now I may get the Edelbrock RPM intake if I can use the drop down base that FuryGT spoke of and clear my hood with a stock dual snorkel 69 air cleaner.
I am beginning to feel the light crank is also off the table. Cam I am at the mercy of you experts. The Holley Street Dominator kinda peaked my interest, as I looked at the advantages of the spread bore thermoquad designs. Small primaries and huge secondaries. Great for throttle response I would think. What I would like is a big car which she already is that is a cruiser ,great on the highway,[with rear gears to match 3.23] rather smooth idle with no "wanna race ?" lope,, that can if necessary get out of her own way surprisingly well. Low 13's ,,nice ,,high 12's OMG! And the motor has so little stress it will last till I don't know who I am anymore. Thanks alot for your thoughts furious70

Talk to Dwayne Porter on cam selection. If he is going to massage your heads, he should provide you with guidance on cam selection.
 
Light crank and knife edging is usually more beneficial at high RPM you are not high RPM planning. Especially with stock port window heads are not big enough to feed a 500+ CID to high RPM. I would probably keep the $95 in the kitty for other parts. Seeing as how the Steaths are a exact replacement, get a height difference between RPM and a stock intake then transfer that height to the top of your stock air cleaner now. A loosely crumpled ball of aluminum foil at the height difference on top of your air cleaner, shut your hood, if the aluminum foil is squished more than what you set it at you don't have enough clearance.
 
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