67 Polara 500 convertible

Is it worth getting it welded up? It's so nice and fresh seems to be a shame to use all those clamps, but I guess it will work just as well.
I would never have a welded system installed on anything. At least I can take this system apart if I need to service a trans or something. Also, no adjustment when something starts to rattle. And guess where welded systems rust.... the welds. Clamps are the only way to go IMHO.
Welding wire is a LOT cheaper than clamps... its a fantastic sham that so many folks have been made to believe they are getting something better when a shop does that.
 
The tti exhaust system is a kit. It's not meant to be a duplicate of the original but, instead, a replacement. The quality is superb and the finished product appears, at casual glance, to be as original. If bought with mufflers tti supplies Dinomax which are no where near OEM in appearance or sound. OEM replacement mufflers are not that hard to locate but may require some tweaking of the kit to install.
 
I put my TTi kit on the Monaco about 7-8 years ago and am still happy with it. I put on some 40's which I found in a swap meet that let you know what is under the hood by just listening. Thanks for posting the pics it brought back memories.
 
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For me, this hanger was the hardest one to drill for. Fuel tank on one side and shackle on the other.
 
For me, this hanger was the hardest one to drill for. Fuel tank on one side and shackle on the other.






The instructions state, "install bracket using existing hole". Drilling a hole may be required in some instances. I suspect most C body applications are "some instances". I found a sweet spot just aft of the shackle, drilled and tapped the frame.
 
I ran into an issue while bleeding the brakes today that I have never run into in over 50 years of wrenching.
I got fluid at three of the bleeders but nothing at the right front. All new hoses, wheel cylinders, brake hardware, and all the steel lines blown out with air.
Fluid present at the hard line and the hose but nothing from the bleeder. Some of you know what's involved in the R&R of a front wheel cylinder. I removed the new cylinder and disassembled it. No plugged holes, no debris or obstructions. I reassembled it, Connected it to the hose and all was fine. A good stream of fluid, So I put everything back together and ….. no fluid at the bleeder still.
I then pulled the original cylinder from the scrap pile, stripped, cleaned and honed it and put the seals from the new cylinder in it. Reassembled again and it worked like a charm…… Never happened before.
 
I ran into an issue while bleeding the brakes today that I have never run into in over 50 years of wrenching.
I got fluid at three of the bleeders but nothing at the right front. All new hoses, wheel cylinders, brake hardware, and all the steel lines blown out with air.
Fluid present at the hard line and the hose but nothing from the bleeder. Some of you know what's involved in the R&R of a front wheel cylinder. I removed the new cylinder and disassembled it. No plugged holes, no debris or obstructions. I reassembled it, Connected it to the hose and all was fine. A good stream of fluid, So I put everything back together and ….. no fluid at the bleeder still.
I then pulled the original cylinder from the scrap pile, stripped, cleaned and honed it and put the seals from the new cylinder in it. Reassembled again and it worked like a charm…… Never happened before.
I have read of new wheel cylinders not being drilled correctly. I can't remember the exact flaw, but I think the holes didn't meet correctly and when assembled, it prevented fluid getting to the cylinder.
 
I have read of new wheel cylinders not being drilled correctly. I can't remember the exact flaw, but I think the holes didn't meet correctly and when assembled, it prevented fluid getting to the cylinder.






I'm thinking it must be a production flaw to John. I think rebuilding OEM cylinders is the best way to go in the future for me.
 
I'm thinking it must be a production flaw to John. I think rebuilding OEM cylinders is the best way to go in the future for me.
I think that ultimately, boring them and inserting stainless steel or even bronze sleeves would be the way to go. Hard to justify the cost, but I wasn't impressed with the new wheel cylinders I just used for my Barracuda. They worked, but I don't know for how long.

Used to be that we all rebuilt them... Then it got economical to replace rather than rebuild and we all started doing that instead.
 
I bought and returned three sets of rear cylinders for this car. The new ones used a smaller mount bolt than original. I suppose due to saving money with a lighter/smaller casting. The originals honed out nicely so I rebuilt them, which kept with my theme of keeping as much original as possible. They have the part number cast into them.
Today is power wash the underneath and engine and clean up the shop day. Then the more fun stuff starts.
 
I did some power washing and exterior cleaning today. Engine bay and underbody cleaned up nice. I think I'll refinish the brackets and pulleys as well as the ford blue front cover. I'm not sure why the front cover was removed but there is an aluminum water pump installed. Will also install a Mopar tan dist cap, new ign wires, and a black coil. A through washing with Dawn dish detergent removed a lot of the oxidation from the paint. Big improvement. (note the hose).
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I did some power washing and exterior cleaning today. Engine bay and underbody cleaned up nice. I think I'll refinish the brackets and pulleys as well as the ford blue front cover. I'm not sure why the front cover was removed but there is an aluminum water pump installed. Will also install a Mopar tan dist cap, new ign wires, and a black coil. A through washing with Dawn dish detergent removed a lot of the oxidation from the paint. Big improvement. (note the hose).
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Wil: Get rid of that damned Fram oil filter. . .
 
As much as I hate it, I have to leave this project sit for awhile. Time to start gearing up for Carlisle. I have to tow Connie home and get her outfitted for the trip. I plan on being at the fair grounds by Tuesday the 9th, and allow 4 days to travel, so I leave on July 5th. gives me a week to prep.
I'll be traveling to Michigan from Carlisle and may not be back to Foley until Sept.
 
Question for you PA folks. Does anyone know a good "through the woods" route from Carlisle to Ohio/Michigan?
I need to stay away from the turnpike and not go through Pittsburg like I did last time.
 
The only way I know is through 70 before Pittsburgh and into Columbus . . Dave should know the good routes ...
 
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