Let's talk fuselage body shells

vdk2010

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After learning how much it would costs to get my body shell to mint condition again, I am considering buying another, rust free, body shell instead. (If something like this exists at all)

Just testing the waters on that so don't freak out ;)

Are there any, and if, where are all the small differences in (Dodge, Plymouth,) Chrysler and Imperial body shells?

Does anyone have pictures of bare Chrysler body shells?

I think at least the rear panels are different, are they?

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I doubt that there´re cleaner shells out there than your .. Only holes I see is at the rear. Firewall is perfect, A pillar an frontwindowframe looks also mint..
 
After learning how much it would costs to get my body shell to mint condition again, I am considering buying another, rust free, body shell instead. (If something like this exists at all)

Just testing the waters on that so don't freak out ;)

Are there any, and if, where are all the small differences in (Dodge, Plymouth,) Chrysler and Imperial body shells?

Does anyone have pictures of bare Chrysler body shells?

I think at least the rear panels are different, are they?

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Julian: I'm no expert regarding body work, but looking at the pictures you posted, I don't think your body shell is all that bad. I've seen other bodies repaired that were much much worse. Maybe you should find another shop. . .
 
Me to. But we are talking 15-20k€ for bodywork.
Some random thoughts...

It might be time to cut your losses and look for another car. A whole complete, running car. Then take the pieces that you have carefully restored and move them into the new car.

The hard fact of project cars is that you can get in very deep financially when it starts coming to body work, especially if you can't do the work yourself. A very wise friend of mine, who has done some very spectacular Mopars over the years, once told me to start with the best car you can.

With that said, you've shown a lot of patience and ability to learn new skills. Think about doing some of the work yourself. You could easily paint the inside and bottom of the existing shell. That will knock off some cost. The other thought might be to find another shop. That quoted price sounds like a "go away" quote. You've done a lot of the hard work... The car is stripped and there's no surprises waiting.
 
Me to. But we are talking 15-20k€ for bodywork.

???????????

do you want to duplicate the body made in gold?
You probably have searched for the wrong bodyshops.
Stay away from the big glossy ones.

Look for a smaller dirty business run by some polish guys or from turkey.
And don't look so rich be more sloppy like a guy with empty pockets.
Otherwise you get a bad quote for the job :)
 
???????????

do you want to duplicate the body made in gold?
You probably have searched for the wrong bodyshops.
Stay away from the big glossy ones.

Look for a smaller dirty business run by some polish guys or from turkey.
And don't look so rich be more sloppy like a guy with empty pockets.
Otherwise you get a bad quote for the job :)

Showing up in the Porsche tow vehicle probably didn't help. . .
 
I look at that body of yours and think what a great foundation to start from, it is such a good body you have now. Almost all cars of this era will have rust and much worse than yours. I have no idea why on earth they are quoting you such a high price. It is way over the top for sure. I have looked at the pics you have posted very closely and i will say there is maybe, maybe a weeks worth of body repair in that car. But honestly I would say much much less. This is an easy fix shell.
 
Obviously, the Plymouth and Dodge fuselage bodies are different than the Chrysler.

Keep in mind that he is in Germany.

A good restoration quality paint and body work by a quality restoration shop in my area will cost around the same depending on how much body work is needed. The cost of paint has skyrocketed and body shops have to have special filtering systems and built in fire suppression systems in some states (and countries) and that all adds to the cost.

Nonetheless, I do agree that for $15k - $20k US dollars you could probably find a very nice fuselage Chrysler that is very nice.
 
Obviously, the Plymouth and Dodge fuselage bodies are different than the Chrysler.

Keep in mind that he is in Germany.

A good restoration quality paint and body work by a quality restoration shop in my area will cost around the same depending on how much body work is needed. The cost of paint has skyrocketed and body shops have to have special filtering systems and built in fire suppression systems in some states (and countries) and that all adds to the cost.

Nonetheless, I do agree that for $15k - $20k US dollars you could probably find a very nice fuselage Chrysler that is very nice.
He is talking about getting another body to start with, meaning all that paint and prep would be extra.
 
1. Yes, any ’69 to ’71 Chrysler 2-door body shell is the same. Only difference btw Imperial and Chrysler being the rear panel, as you seem to know. So that one you would have to swap.

2. Why not ask a quote from Poland? The wages are much lower there, as you know. And we have a member here from over there, who might have useful contact info. (The guy with the ’71 Newport; I can’t recall his name, sorry about that.)
 
I could help you, at half the cost of your quote in Euros.

By the way, you are taking about replacing THE car here.

The “body shell” as you call it, IS the actual car/chassis. It has all the required legal VIN numbers registered to THAT/YOUR, car. If you “change” the body/chassis you are walking into illegal territory.

Just a thought.
 
I could help you, at half the cost of your quote in Euros.

By the way, you are taking about replacing THE car here.

The “body shell” as you call it, IS the actual car/chassis. It has all the required legal VIN numbers registered to THAT/YOUR, car. If you “change” the body/chassis you are walking into illegal territory.

Just a thought.
I can't see 10K in metal work in that car to be done before paint. What am I missing?
 
After learning how much it would costs to get my body shell to mint condition again, I am considering buying another, rust free, body shell instead. (If something like this exists at all)

Just testing the waters on that so don't freak out ;)

Are there any, and if, where are all the small differences in (Dodge, Plymouth,) Chrysler and Imperial body shells?

Does anyone have pictures of bare Chrysler body shells?

I think at least the rear panels are different, are they?

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The only significant rust that I see from the photos is on the passenger foot well and the rear quarter radii. Most of the time, any parts car you will find is going to be a lot more rusted than yours and it will likely be rusted out in the same places. The body work quote does not sound reasonable unless there is a lot of hidden rust that does not show in the photos. For the price of that quote for body and paint, you can find a pristine running car of the same type and probably pay to have it shipped. In the US a rust free C-Body can still be found for about $7,000, maybe as much as $10,000 for a near perfect one. I suggest you do some shopping around some other shops and maybe consider looking for a complete running car. One of the realities of these cars is that restoration work is expensive unless you are able to do most of the work yourself. It will always be cheaper to find one that is a nice original or one that some one else did a quality restoration on a few years back. All depends on how you want to spend your money.

Dave
 
Let me start with a list of all the rusted areas to clear that up. Most are nor visible o nthe pictures.

Donor Panels on hand:
- Front Window Frame, lower left and right corner.
- cowl left and right, where the fenders rest on.
- 3 of 4 floors (Front left and Right, Rear Right)
- a hole in the drip rail
- complete Trunk floor

Must be made from scratch:
- complete Dutchman panel
- Quarter Panel edges next to the dutchman panel
- Lower Quarters
- Both rear wheel arches
- mulpiple holes in the rear wheel houses
- panel around the trunk lock latch
- rear "lip" underneith the trunk opening has pinholes

I think that's the main work that needs to be done and I was told that this is 200 hours of body work easily.


I got three quotes so far and all of them were in that 15-20k Euro range.

I really hate to even consider changing to another body shell. But that is a big pile of money for me.
And it would be spend on just one step in a long long list of steps still to do.

I had a contact in poland, but he already has work for the next 3 years. And I'm not giving my car to someone I don't know or someone I never saw work of.
If some "cheap body guy" ruins this body, I'm ******..!
Believe me guys, I've already spend a lot of time thinking about all that. The struggle is real.

But I really appreciate your help and your opinions! It's good to talk about all the possibilities I might not thought off.

Just to see, I texted Murray to see what he has to offer.
I also watched what the market has to offer. But good 69 Imperial concerning, it's not looking good.
 
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I could help you, at half the cost of your quote in Euros.

By the way, you are taking about replacing THE car here.

The “body shell” as you call it, IS the actual car/chassis. It has all the required legal VIN numbers registered to THAT/YOUR, car. If you “change” the body/chassis you are walking into illegal territory.

Just a thought.

I thnik replacing the body and using the VIN of this car from that point on is not illegal at all. Right? I mean, no body will ever know.
 
Showing up in the Porsche tow vehicle probably didn't help. . .
I know, I thought the same that day. But I don't have a car with a hitch and my Boss was the only person who had time and the possibility to help me.

I had to rent the Trailer, the towing vehicle and the driver :O
 
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