rags
Senior Member
just can't use an acorn nut to pull the stud in. use a plain nut upside down, flat side vs. tapered against the washer.
I really messed it up....
- Thread starter Analog Kid
- Start date
Analog Kid
Member
OK....I was able to drill it out. It wasn't pretty. I roasted a new set of drill bits but luckily I made good use of my grinder to sharpen the bits. The process was basically - drill...sharpen...drill...sharpen...about ten times. My hands feel like they've been run over by a tire...pun intended.
It was really difficult to do this without chewing the wheel up a bit. I may have to look around for a replacement. I do have new rotors so I guess I will add that to the list...along with new studs.
It was really difficult to do this without chewing the wheel up a bit. I may have to look around for a replacement. I do have new rotors so I guess I will add that to the list...along with new studs.
This guy's working on a different year, but should be pretty much the same thing. Expect to tear up the nut you use to draw the stud in with.
78Brougham
"Chump"
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
I had to use a Hole saw on my '82 Imperial alum.wheel years ago.A new/used wheel will be needed.Yes NTB does not Have /Retain decent mechanics. Bought new tires for my wifes '03 Caravan two years and they said it needed a Steering rack. Went last year for a rotation and they said Rack was fine but the ball joints "were busted".Neither were correct.
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I bought a parts car 48 Dodge years ago and the rear axle looked like it had sat in a river for a few years but I wanted to tear it down and salvage a few parts but the rims were still in place and figured I was going to have to battle 10 rusted lug nuts. Got my 6 pt socket and 1`/2 breaker bar and muscled up for the intial pull and the darn lug nut came off with almost no effort! Some saint had put never seize on the firggin lug nuts and studs at some point in the distant past....ever since then I put never seize on all my stuff!
So when you finally get everything back in shape don't forget to add a healthy dose of never seize to the studs before spinning on the lug nuts. ;)
So when you finally get everything back in shape don't forget to add a healthy dose of never seize to the studs before spinning on the lug nuts. ;)
stubs300
Senior Member
I made a homemade contraption kinda like this when I had to replace some studs. I don't have impact, just used a BF wrench to set them in the hub.
78Brougham
"Chump"
Yes Sir! It's listed in Snapon's Supplemental catalog. I have both the small one for cars and the big one for heavy trucks on my truck this very moment.Lisle?!?!?
Lifetime guaranteed. About $35.
Need one... LOL
Please don't... a proven way to loose a wheel.
rkrochen
Senior Member
You should never put anti seize, oil or other lubricant on wheel studs. This will result in an over torque of the nut and could stretch the stud and or damage the rim.
Really? I've been doing that since I was a teenager... I've only ever had one wheel loosen, and that was one I had never touched. Blame the local tire shop for that one.
Having gone through the OP's problem on a few cars that my kids dragged home over the years, I continue to put just a little dab of anti-seize on the lug nut. I also re-tighten the lug nuts after driving it the first couple of days and I tighten by hand, only depending on my impact to spin the nut on. Keep in mind that my daily drivers are immersed in a salt bath that I like to call "nature's lock-tite".
rkrochen
Senior Member
Check this video out it explains why you shouldn’t put anti seize on the lug nuts.
Proper torque is usually stated as wet or dry. In automotive wheel applications it is always discussed as dry by put anti seize in it is now a wet torque. This is extremely important and rather than try to explain it please listen to the video as he does a pretty good job.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
A few years ago, I was following a friend down I-95 on the way to Daytona. He was trailering his bike using a borrowed trailer; I was trailering mine behind him. He blew a tire on the borrowed trailer, and once we got to the shoulder, he found he could not get the lug nuts loose. Since he had a severe lung condition, I jumped in to help and with enormous effort, I very slowly got the nuts to turn. They would hardly turn at all, even after a few turns. Turned out, some dickweed had coated the threads with red Locktite. . .
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rkrochen
Senior Member
That is just nasty not to mention plain stupid. It must have taken quite the effort to get them off red picture usually needs to be heated to release. I can only imagine some of the words that were expressed during this struggle.
This is nothing new to me and I understand the dry v. wet torque and do tighten accordingly by hand. I've seen the reverse of this with rusty lug nuts/studs.
Honestly, this guy's presentation is well meaning, and he does make a good point. He's not using a proper size/pitch bolt and he's using a washer rather than the tapered seat of a wheel, so you have to take his results with a grain of salt.
Having watched "pros" tighten wheels with an impact for years, or even watching them use a torque "stick" or a crappy torque wrench that's never been calibrated, I think there's a large margin of error built into this. Since we've calibrated literally thousands of torque wrenches at the company I used to own, I can tell you that there's a lot of torque wrenches out there that are waaaaayyyy off and being used incorrectly.
Nothing surprises me anymore... A little heat will defeat red loctite.
I knew a tow truck driver that often would put a lug wrench on a stuck lug nut and drive the car back or forth (depending on the side and left or right thread) to loosen rusty lug nuts on the side of the road. Crude, but effective...
Wouldn't a '48 Dodge have a bolt rather than a stud and nut?
Analog Kid
Member
Just wanted to give an update here - as well as post another question.
After dealing with the lug nut, replacing the CV axle turned out to be cake....easier than I thought. I then replaced the stud, rotors and pads and....got all new chrome lug nuts. I tossed the stupid capped ones.
There was some trans fluid that came out with the CV axle....I have it in a drip pan which I bought new so it should not be contaminated. Since this is the transmission with the no-dipstick deal I am wondering if I should just pour it back in. The fluid was changed about 50K miles ago so another thought was maybe I should take it somewhere to have it flushed and refilled....probably the dealership (I read the Transmission PITA thread).
What do you guys think?
After dealing with the lug nut, replacing the CV axle turned out to be cake....easier than I thought. I then replaced the stud, rotors and pads and....got all new chrome lug nuts. I tossed the stupid capped ones.
There was some trans fluid that came out with the CV axle....I have it in a drip pan which I bought new so it should not be contaminated. Since this is the transmission with the no-dipstick deal I am wondering if I should just pour it back in. The fluid was changed about 50K miles ago so another thought was maybe I should take it somewhere to have it flushed and refilled....probably the dealership (I read the Transmission PITA thread).
What do you guys think?
thrashingcows
Senior Member
I'm with Big_John on this one, as I do also understand wet vs dry torque and have been doing it this way for at least a decade on all my vehicles and not once have I had an issue with wheels coming loose, or even finding lug nuts slightly loose when pulling wheels for service. I will continue as I have been but do appreciate the heads up on the potential issues.
And yes a 48 Dodge had a long threaded bolt/lug nut combo unit holding the wheels in place.
And yes a 48 Dodge had a long threaded bolt/lug nut combo unit holding the wheels in place.
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