WANTED 69 Monaco clutch and brake pedals

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rd92west

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Just figured out how to post a wanted. Small phone and poor eyesight combo.
I was wanting to buy clutch and brake pedal assembly including mounting bracket and linkage for 69 c body.
Now I will try to figure out how to delete my ad in the For Sale section
 
Sorry for my lack of foresight.
My car is power brakes. So a set for power brakes would be my first choice. I wouldn't have a problem converting the manual brakes if I had to.
I was told that 65 to 68 pedals won't fit 69. Is this true? I have 2 sets of the 65 to 68
Thanks

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Thanks for confirming. My original plan was to do 4 spd swap with a 66. I bought a 66 chrysler windsor sight unseen Yea I know it's not a smart thing to do. Drove long way to get a POS . But now I have a parts car. My 69 would be a excellent candidate for 4 speed.
Thought I would post a want ad. It's free and you never know.
 
Thanks for the pictures. Sure would be nice to have them on the kitchen table for a close inspection. I do see different bend in 69 brake pedal. Wouldn't take long to bend and lengthen older brake pedal
 
Don't know if this will help, I'm not sure where this came from, (probably on this site), shows manual and power brake pedal sets side by side.
Pedals.jpg
 
Cool. You don't happen to know what year they are. I am going to look at engine side firewall on 66 polara and compare with 69 Monaco.
Thanks for posting
 
Cool. You don't happen to know what year they are. I am going to look at engine side firewall on 66 polara and compare with 69 Monaco.
Thanks for posting
Sorry, no. I believe the manual set is on the left but not 100% on that, I sure others will know. I have a 68 SF w/4 speed and manual brakes. I've been looking at converting to power but got hung up on the same thing.
 
Yea the manual ipedals on the left. I am sticking my neck out and say they 65 to 68. Could easily be wrong.
It has been debated as to if 65 to 68 would fit in 69 and up. The white picture is 66 chrysler. You will see the area around were the brake booster goes is basically flat. I don't have a 69 with booster removed but 2nd picture is under the dash. Easy to see wide beads rolled in up and down.
There is a good possibility that 65 to 68 pedal assemblies might work in a 69 but it sure wouldn't be a bolt in.

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Yesterday I posted that 65 to 68 pedals in 69 would not be a bolt in. I need to back track somewhat.
Turns out I have a 72 polara that has the brake booster removed. Picture is attached. I did some measuring I don't see a big problem putting earlier pedals in 69 and up. . It's funny how a better view helps.
But even if the pedals could be installed in 69 it still leaves the shortage of power brake brackets and pedals.
So I am upgrading my previous comment and I figure 65 to 68 pedals could be installed fairly easy. But once again I could be wrong. I plan on trying the swap on the 72 polara. That way I will know.

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Yes there is a manual brake pedal set and a power brake pedal set. It would be interesting to know what the factories reason was.
Has anyone actually installed a power brake booster on the manual pedal setup. It wouldn't take much. Would need to swap the plate that is between the booster and the firewall for the booster one with the round hole. Also drill holes for the booster mounting studs to go thru firewall.
Yes the power brake pedal swings higher up in the mounting bracket but I don't see why it wouldn't work with the manual brake pedal. The push rod hole in the brake pedal is in the same location on manual and power brake pedals.
I am going to install it in 65 polara and see what it looks like.
 
Update to above post. Attached 2 pictureds.
First one is manual break pedal set. You will see the 2 studs and 2 holes. As most will know this is what attracts the manual brake master cylinder.
The 2nd picture shows the power brake plate sitting aprox were it would go but off to the side to show difference between manual brake master cylinder mounting studs and the lower bolts. On the plate you can see the 4 lower holes that the booster mounting studs to thru.
This shows the modifications required to graft a booster on to manual brake pedal mounting bracket. Very simple. Also I should mention that the firewall already has the holes for booster mounting studs.
I am still not saying that this is a done deal. But felt it best to update.

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I've wondered that too. I did a quick check on an auto pedal/booster/Master I wanted to use for reference or parts I have and the of the actuation rod to the top bolts of the mounting plate look to be the same, (approx. 5 inches), so it should line up. I'd heard before the difference had to do with the increased effort of the manual brakes but can't be sure of that. I do know that on PB cars with manuals the brake pedal was lower that the clutch so it was closer in height to the gas. Maybe hooking the booster to a manual set up wouldn't get this? If anyone has a auto trans / manual brake pedal they can post a picture of we could see the differences.
IMG_5663.JPG
inches).
MountingPlate.JPG
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I assume your manual brake pedals are still on your car. The best way to understand how to convert manual to power is to have your manual setup out of car. Pictures are confusing.

Yea there is lots of views on the differences between power and manual brakes. Looks to me the only way to know for sure is to set it up and try.
I see brewers has pictures of power and manual pedal assemblies and looks to me that pedals are level on both sets.
The thought that manual brakes take more effort sounds logical. But who tested it out to see. Exercise the right leg and push harder.
Once again it looks to me that it needs to be set up and tried. It's the only way to know.
Problem I see with putting a booster onto manual pedals are is the booster plunger rod the correct length to properly attach to manual brake pedal. I think it is to short. I feel the easiest remedy would be to alter the pedal rather than lengthen plunger rod. But without setting it up a person don't know. I do know that the hole in the manual brake pedal is in the right place vertically to work with booster.
On manual pedal setup the master cylinder attaches to pedal mounting bracket via 2 studs on top of the mounting bracket that stick thru firewall into engine bay thru master cylinder. and 2 bolts with nuts on the bottom of master cylinder.
To attach a booster the above mentioned 2 studs need to be removed and the pedal mounting bracket needs to be modified because the booster mounting holes are further apart up and down than the master cylinder. And booster needs to be securely attached to pedal mounting bracket.
The firewall has the extra holes already.
I apologize in advance for my lack of communicating skills.
 
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