rear wheel bearing question??

John Reddie

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My '67 Fury 4 door hardtop with the 8 3/4 rear end is going to need a driver's side rear wheel bearing soon. I remember before that I was able to purchase a kit which included the cup and cone bearing, the retaining ring, and I think the outer seal that fits into the mounting plate. I have not been able to locate this kit anywhere and am wondering if anyone here knows if one can still be purchased. Thanks for any info here.
John
 
My '67 Fury 4 door hardtop with the 8 3/4 rear end is going to need a driver's side rear wheel bearing soon. I remember before that I was able to purchase a kit which included the cup and cone bearing, the retaining ring, and I think the outer seal that fits into the mounting plate. I have not been able to locate this kit anywhere and am wondering if anyone here knows if one can still be purchased. Thanks for any info here.
John

www.wichitamopar.com also has the parts numbers for the kits in the mopar tech section.

Dave
 
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Thanks for the input. Another question, I have heard that Green Bearings are not a good choice for these rear ends yet the A and I believe B body cars use them with no problems. Why is that.
John
 
Thanks for the input. Another question, I have heard that Green Bearings are not a good choice for these rear ends yet the A and I believe B body cars use them with no problems. Why is that.
John

Main reason is that they are a weaker, pressed on, bearing on a much heavier car. There are people who swear by them, but I am not one of them. Properly set up the tapered bearings are bullet proof which is how I like things.

Dave
 
Thanks for the input. Another question, I have heard that Green Bearings are not a good choice for these rear ends yet the A and I believe B body cars use them with no problems. Why is that.
John

Main reason is that they are a weaker, pressed on, bearing on a much heavier car. There are people who swear by them, but I am not one of them. Properly set up the tapered bearings are bullet proof which is how I like things.

Dave

^This^

The "Green" bearings were first used in rear ends with spools in drag cars. Basically, the spools didn't have anything for the ends of the axles to butt up against. With nothing to butt the axles against, it was impossible to set the end play in the bearings.

Fine for going in a straight line, but really not meant for side loads. Lots of guys use them with success, but all it accomplishes for them is not having to adjust the bearings.
 
Main reason is that they are a weaker, pressed on, bearing on a much heavier car. There are people who swear by them, but I am not one of them. Properly set up the tapered bearings are bullet proof which is how I like things.

Dave
^This^

The "Green" bearings were first used in rear ends with spools in drag cars. Basically, the spools didn't have anything for the ends of the axles to butt up against. With nothing to butt the axles against, it was impossible to set the end play in the bearings.

Fine for going in a straight line, but really not meant for side loads. Lots of guys use them with success, but all it accomplishes for them is not having to adjust the bearings.


I will just throw this out there as I haven't done the research yet, but Ford has used the same style bearing as the green bearing in the 9" with great success. I would guess there must be a difference in size compared to the green bearing, but I do know Ford used 3 different size axle bearings in the 9". Just some thoughts, maybe you guy's have some insight on this.
 
9" Ford rear end was a good unit that was designed for the pressed on bearings. The Mopar 8.75" was designed for tapered bearings. Retro fitting the pressed on bearing will work but it is not as good or as strong as the tapered bearings the Mopar cars came with. Interestingly, Mopar did not use the tapered bearings on the 8.25" rear end, those bearings were floaters on the rear axles, that sometimes caused issues with the axles getting pitted when the bearings failed.

Dave
 
I will just throw this out there as I haven't done the research yet, but Ford has used the same style bearing as the green bearing in the 9" with great success. I would guess there must be a difference in size compared to the green bearing, but I do know Ford used 3 different size axle bearings in the 9". Just some thoughts, maybe you guy's have some insight on this.

The 9" Ford bearings were a good deal heavier than the green bearing conversion for the 8.75", it's mostly a matter of what would fit in the available space. Ball bearings need to be caged in a straight line, so if two bearings of equal size are used, the tapered bearing will always have more surface area to be mated, ie angled rollers vs balls.

Dave
 
Available at Rockauto

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My '67 Fury 4 door hardtop with the 8 3/4 rear end is going to need a driver's side rear wheel bearing soon. I remember before that I was able to purchase a kit which included the cup and cone bearing, the retaining ring, and I think the outer seal that fits into the mounting plate. I have not been able to locate this kit anywhere and am wondering if anyone here knows if one can still be purchased. Thanks for any info here.
John
Just curious. What is car doing that makes you feel it needs an axle shaft bearing?
 
Just curious. What is car doing that makes you feel it needs an axle shaft bearing?
I have gear oil seeping into the brake area. I have changed the inner seal twice with no improvement and was told that in this case, a worn bearing is usually the cause. I know that the outer seal requires bearing removal to change.
John
 
I have gear oil seeping into the brake area. I have changed the inner seal twice with no improvement and was told that in this case, a worn bearing is usually the cause. I know that the outer seal requires bearing removal to change.
John

The outer seal is not really an oil seal, it is there to keep stuff like brake dust out of the bearing. The bearing is packed with grease and the inner seal keeps the oil away from the bearing. Check the axle shaft for pitting or a groove cut into it. The other thing that will cause oil leakage into the brakes is improperly adjusted end play on the rear axles. There is an adjuster on the passenger side to take up excessive end play. Too much end play causes the axles to move back and forth and eat the seals. While you have the axle out to replace the seal, you can check the bearing for pitting as that is a sure sign of failure. The FSM gives detailed instructions on how to set the end play on the rear axles. Chinese seals sold at Auto Bone or Car Crap as they are very poor quality, find a set of National brand seals.

Dave
 
I have gear oil seeping into the brake area. I have changed the inner seal twice with no improvement and was told that in this case, a worn bearing is usually the cause. I know that the outer seal requires bearing removal to change.
John
Hi John. My experience is that a bad bearing makes a roaring noise when you're driving. I agree with Dave on checking end play. It should be small enough that it is barely discernible. Best of luck.
 
I have used the green bearings in my 69 300 for 3 plus years w/ no problems. Just did a bumper to bumper inspection before going to Volo last month. No wear or endplay present, no leaks either. Although a different design they seem to hold up well. Dr. Diff can supply what need at a reasonable cost. Just my two cents. Use National Seals as a source for inner seals, much better quality.
 
Thank you to all who have posted here. It's most helpful. My good friend has a dial indicator set up for checking axle shaft end play which we will do shortly. I do have a FSM. I do realize that some of the parts offered today are not top quality. I will search for seals made by National. C Bodies Rule!
John
 
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