WANTED 69 Monaco clutch and brake pedals

[rd92west]

Had a quick look at brewers power brake pedal picture. Like I said picture arr misleading. The brake pedal looks higher up than clutch pedal. But it is because of the way it's sitting on their bench.
I have never seen a real live power brake manual trans car. I am trying to come up with a way to get a 4 speed C body on the road. At a price a person could live with

 

[rd92west]

68 fury
The best and most useful picture that I found is in the service manual.
You mentioned that you have a automatic trans brake pedal and bracket.
I used a magnifying glass because I am old. Whatever you need get a close look at the picture showing power brake. Study picture and compare it to the top of your power brake. In picture you will see at the top middle 2 bolts the forward bolt is the bolt that the brake pedal swings on. It is 3/4 inch and cut down to 3/8 and threaded for the nut that holds it in place. The 2nd bolt is 5/16 and it holds the clutch pedal bracket to the power brake pedal bracket. The brake pivot bolt also holds the 2 halves together. With the pedal assembly you have and the picture you should see how it goes..
I took a manual brake pedal assembly and unbolted the brake mounting bracket from the clutch mounting bracket. Then bolted the bracket and pedal like you have onto the clutch pedal bracket. To this point it's a piece of cake. You do have to shorten the bolt that the clutch swings on. Not hard. Machine shop be best but I cut mine and ground it down on bench grinder. Took a while because bolt is hard. Then I cut new threads. Also slow process but not hard to do.
I left the auto trans brake pedal on the braket. You now lay the manual brake pedal over the auto trans power brake pedal to see were it needs to be cut. You have to weld the top of the power brake pedal onto the bottom of the manual pedal. Tack it and install it back in the bracket
You need to see were pedals are in the home position.
This swap with the exception of shortening the clutch pivot bolt and modifying the brake pedal is a simple bolt together.
I did it and tested it in a jig I whipped up and on a scale of one to 10. I would rate it at a 2.5 maybe even less. I understand some might think it's a scary project. To each their own.
The cat is out of the bag
Oh yea I contacted a guy with a original power brake 4 speed car and politely requested a fee pictures of his brake pedals. Hope to get them. Be nice to compare

 

[rd92west]

Reviewed my last post and thought of another wild card.. Getting the brake pedal welded in right.
I might have discovered a flaw in the project
I have the advantage of a mock up jig. I used a sawzall and disected a 65 polara dash and firewall. I can see were my brake pedal needs to be. Install it and check again. Wouldn't be near as much fun installing the assembly into the car to check and remove assembly to tweek the pedal..
A person wants the pedals to line up..
I will study some more and see if I can come up with measurements that would help get modified brake pedal were it needs to be in 1 attempt. Here is my mock up jig gizmo. You can were the brake is a little more forward of the clutch pedal. I need to cut my tack weld and position the pedal rearward slightly.

 

[rd92west]

First picture is clutch pedal and bracket bolted to auto trans brake pedal bracket obvious why brake pedal needs a tune up
Second pic is me holding manual brake pedal over the auto trans power brake pedal to get idea were to cut them
3rd is mock up before I disected 65 . Shows the higher pivot point of power brake
I have to say I am nervous about advising this swap due to the possibility of not having the pedals line up. It would drive me crazy looking at pedals that don't line up
Leave it with me for a while to see if I can come up with a plan
It won't happen right away but I plan to see about adapting a booster to my second set of pedals .
Curiosity got the cat

 

[rd92west]

I think I have a solution to welding the brake pedal so it hangs were it needs to be.
On your workbench You. Mount a brake booster on to your brake pedal assembly with the plate that goes between the booster and firewall and also washers the Aprox thickness of the firewall.
This will put the booster plunger rod were it needs to be.
After tack welding the brake pedal you install iit in mounting bracket and install the plunger rod.
The clutch pedal is up against a rubber bumper so you know were it sits and it dictates were the brake pedal needs to be.
If the brake pedal isn't were you like it you take it out of the bracket and and adjust it and retack weld and check again.
A slight adjust will change it quite a bit so be patient. Once it is were you want it weld it securely
The brake pedal is 5/8 inch thick and 2 1/2 inch wide. It grinds nicely and welds easy. But it needs to be welded by a competent welder to insure it is done right
Just to clarify you cut the pedal below the plunger rod hole in the pedal. That is obvious once the pedals are on the bench but thought it might be useful info.

 

[rd92west]

Screwed up . Brake pedal is 1 1/2 wide. Not 2 1/2 wide