Am I forgetting anything for timing gear swap?

When you're tightening up the bolt on the harmonic balancer remove one of the spark plugs and insert a rope in there and tighten away read that trick on here somewhere
 
When you're tightening up the bolt on the harmonic balancer remove one of the spark plugs and insert a rope in there and tighten away read that trick on here somewhere
I'm not sure what you mean. Is there something special to tightening up the harmonic balancer?
 
I'm not sure what you mean. Is there something special to tightening up the harmonic balancer?

The engine will want to roll over before the desired level of torque is achieved. The section of rope in a cylinder stops the crank from turning so the the bolt can be tightened to the desired amount. The rope can then be pulled out.

Dave
 
I got it out. The chain had a ton of slack. It was within an inch of being able to touch both sides together. The timing gear has at least ten different stress fractures in it. No missing teeth, but the teeth themselves are ground down and scored by the chain. I am very thankful that it did not fail before I had the chance to replace it. Many many new parts going back on the car, lots of cleaning and some painting in the true mopar blue. It's going to be a half a new car!
 
Now that I have started moving things around I have broken several brittle vacuum hoses, and I am sure that was part of my rough running issue.
Has anybody got any suggestions for cleaning up parts for paint? Brake cleaner and an air gun/rags only do so much.
 
Now that I have started moving things around I have broken several brittle vacuum hoses, and I am sure that was part of my rough running issue.
Has anybody got any suggestions for cleaning up parts for paint? Brake cleaner and an air gun/rags only do so much.

Get some rubber gloves and a gallon of acetone at your local Ace Hardware. Brush the acetone on with a cheap paint brush and wipe off with a clean shop rag and allow to air dry. Use acetone outside as fumes are bad for you.

Dave
 
My question is: What seal remover and installation tool should I buy to pull and replace the front main seal, assuming its leaking (and will replace even if it isn't).
I use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to drive the seal out from the back side. I hammer the seal in with either a socket the size of the seal or piece of pipe or a seal driver. I do this all the time though.
 
I use a screwdriver or punch and a hammer to drive the seal out from the back side. I hammer the seal in with either a socket the size of the seal or piece of pipe or a seal driver. I do this all the time though.

If the old seal is not badly damaged in the process of removal, you can flip it over and use it to drive in the new seal. If you have a hole saw that is the right size, you can also cut a hardwood dowel for that purpose as well.

Dave
 
I am probably going to take my seal to a local shop I know. They have pressed seals in/out for me before $20 and I know that it won't be screwed up. I have a tendency to bend the sealing surfaces trying to get them out myself.
Also, I rebuilt the oil pump while I had everything apart. The small rotor on the inside had worn down significantly, and the pump was leaking anyways. The original paper gasket was completely gone.
 
Ive used 4 1/2 cans of easy-off oven cleaner. A lot of the paint and grease has melted off. Ive used countless paper towels, and it is finally starting to look like a paint job is possible. I washed it with dawn dish soap and put on another layer of easy-off to let sit overnight. I also bought acetone and some chemical gloves for the last few cleanings. Tomorrow, or thursday i can start priming.
 
Engine was painted last night. The car is mostly together, except some of the accessories and belts. I lined up the new timing gear how the old one was, and then turned it to line up the dots. The old one had jumped a tooth. Also solving the puzzle of what bracket goes where has been difficult. On Monday I will replace a lot of the visible vacuum hoses, as I discovered that they are all hard as a rock and break with minimal effort.
I also have a question. When I put the transmission cooler lines back to the radiator, do they need the air taken out somehow?
 
Engine was painted last night. The car is mostly together, except some of the accessories and belts. I lined up the new timing gear how the old one was, and then turned it to line up the dots. The old one had jumped a tooth. Also solving the puzzle of what bracket goes where has been difficult. On Monday I will replace a lot of the visible vacuum hoses, as I discovered that they are all hard as a rock and break with minimal effort.
I also have a question. When I put the transmission cooler lines back to the radiator, do they need the air taken out somehow?

No. the lines are self purging.

Dave
 
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