Recommendations on new radiator for my 1968 plymouth sport fury

Hi your inbox is full if you want to reach out to me my box is empty. Thank you for getting in touch I preffered to keep the car stock looking but being realistic to have that radiator let loose in my garage is like having a heart attack in the best hospitals emergency room. My luck is usually doing 75 in the middle of nowhere. I was fortunate the car has a 22incn radiator the car is an original 68 sport fury l code with a 440 super commando, The car has a aluminum direct connection manifold that is match portedit had edelbrook heads that are pocket ported it has a direct connection aluminum aluminum water pump and housing. it ha 10-1 compression full roller motor it has a fairly mild lunati voodoo cam I am running a edelbrook 800 thunder series (which might of been a mistake I think its to big) Trany is stock was built to hemi spec I have 3:23 limited slip with stock converter.I had the radiator recored cause it had the original numbers it is only a 22 inch no flex fan or schroud that's the way the car came. I never dad a 440 that was not a 26 Ever since I got the radiator done it ran a 185 in heay traffic it would creep toward 200. my problem was when I would pull it in my garage I have a high ranch and I hav to make a million maneuvers to get it in.I noticed that the belt was was slipping I was able to pull the fan and noticed the belt slipping on the water pump pulley and the fanI went to tighten the belt up that's when the radiator let loose it is completely corroded out.My thought were to put on a 17 inch clutch fan A schroud a three core cold case 22 radiator I have a closed overlow. My question is wether to put a electric push fan in the front in the front.I just did a total restoration on this car so my goal is to get a radiator that will just bolt in place The car even ith itt modification looks 100 stock. The radiator I plan to paint black. I put the car together to enjoy with my family it is a car I liked since a little boy and it is I of23 I just don't want to have a heating issue I get on the car occasionally but it is definitely not a streetracer and I don't beat the hell out of it. I have all the original parts and I will keep the old radiator and see if I can get it recored again correctly but for now it is more important to be able to enjoy
it with my fam.ly an take on trips. The motor has 458 horse and 500 ft pounds at the crank Sorry for the long drawn out story your going to wish you never offered to help out My name is Frank my number is 631-544-5097
 
I have been out of the office for the past 2 days. Sorry for taking so long to respond.

not sure why my inbox is full. I only have about 30 messages in there.

With that motor, you want some decent volume. You also want to pull and not push if at all possible. Try it with your current 17" fan with the new radiator. If you want to get cooler, just increase the size of the fan and the amount of blades. Anything that pulls more air. If you want to get cooler still, then try and find or make a shroud.

You said '3 row' is what you want. Cold Case is a big 2 row. It's slightly larger in width than a 3 row but holds a lot more fluid and has less restriction when air is pulled through.

Once you paint our stamped tanks, it will look pretty original.

Anyway, you can call our toll free number 844-REAL-COLD and ask for John, Ken or Eric. They will be glad to review everything with you. I have forwarded this topic to them so they are up to speed.

thanks again for your confidence in Cold Case

Chris
 
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not sure why my inbox is full. I only have about 30 messages in there.

Anyway, you can call our toll free number 844-REAL-COLD and ask for John, Ken or Eric. They will be glad to review everything with you. I have forwarded this topic to them so they are up to speed.

thanks again for your confidence in Cold Case

Chris
Thank you very much I could not get through to you it said your box was full so I left my phone # I figured you were busy. I have a car show this weekend. The North East Classic That I wanted to go to for years. I was able to pick up a stock one at the recorer that originaly did mine that someone did not pick up and they gave me a good price due to the screw up on mine. I plan to upgrade with a cold case in the near future. I will definitely get in touch with you. I definitely would like to deal with a sponsor I would check you box because it will not accept messages it said it was full and still says it was full this morning after leaving my info and phone number and several messages that it was full and not hearing back I figured you were busy or had an emergeny which thank God was not the case I hope there is no hard feeling and when I do the upgrade I look forward to doing business with you
 
Thank everyone fore taking the time and sharing your experience and knowledge with me. It is much appreciated. That is what makes this forum awesome. The great people who are always willing to help
 
Thank you very much I could not get through to you it said your box was full so I left my phone # I figured you were busy.
oh! I thought you meant my PM inbox on the forums was full. If you called and got that message, sometimes our phone system goes on overload (it's IP based) and you can get some goofy massages. Sorry that happened but glad you got to your show! Hope it was a good one!

If you find that one creeping up on you, you know where to find me. ;)
 
oh! I thought you meant my PM inbox on the forums was full. If you called and got that message, sometimes our phone system goes on overload (it's IP based) and you can get some goofy massages. Sorry that happened but glad you got to your show! Hope it was a good one! Thank you the radiator was a piece if junk just like the one they did for me it was leaking out of the top seam like crazy. I will call tomorrow during your business hours. I am sorry for the mix I was Pm you and it said it was full. I will call tomorrow morning. Thank you for getting back to me I am looking forward to dealing with you Frank
 
Cold Case makes excellent radiators. I bought the MOP753A to replace an 18x22 inch High Altitutde auto trans w AC stock Mopar radiator on my 66 Newport, running a 383, 2 barrel. This is the closest thing CC makes to what I had originally. Despite the 2 inch sacrifice in height, their radiator holds about half a gallon more fluid than the old one.

Using a 6 blade 18 inch clutch fan, the shroud for the 18x22 was worthless, as was my 20 inch 7 blade Mopar clutch fan, which forced me to go to the 18" Derale fan from Summit. Rather than construct a custom shroud, though it isn't THAT difficult, just tedious, I opted for a 16" electric pusher fan, which I flick on when I see temperatures over 195 F after the thermostat opens. Mathilda hasn't run with temperatures over 200F last summer or this one consequently. I use a Hayden 2747 clutch.

I LIKE pusher fans as supplemental cooling! Mathilda idles nicely at 500 rpm, which in traffic, alas, doesn't move much air or coolant. This is the situation a pusher fills in very nicely. While a REALLY GOOD shroud will enable a mech engine fan to pull a bit more air past the radiator when in hot stalling traffic, it doesn't add up to 3000 CFM, or even half that, which probably is a more realistic assessment of my cheap sinotrash pusher, especially when my super low idle doesn't engage the alternator. Mind you, as soon as I start moving, the alt kicks up to 14 V @ 60 A, giving the pusher plenty current, but the CRUCIAL state is when idling at stop! Such is the state I note engine temperature staying below 200F, thanks to Cold Case, Derale, and the nameless slaves who make those 16 inch electric pushers in such abundance. WITHOUT the pusher, temperature climbs to 210F in similar conditions.
 
Cold Case makes excellent radiators. I bought the MOP753A to replace an 18x22 inch High Altitutde auto trans w AC stock Mopar radiator on my 66 Newport, running a 383, 2 barrel. This is the closest thing CC makes to what I had originally. Despite the 2 inch sacrifice in height, their radiator holds about half a gallon more fluid than the old one.

Using a 6 blade 18 inch clutch fan, the shroud for the 18x22 was worthless, as was my 20 inch 7 blade Mopar clutch fan, which forced me to go to the 18" Derale fan from Summit. Rather than construct a custom shroud, though it isn't THAT difficult, just tedious, I opted for a 16" electric pusher fan, which I flick on when I see temperatures over 195 F after the thermostat opens. Mathilda hasn't run with temperatures over 200F last summer or this one consequently. I use a Hayden 2747 clutch.

I LIKE pusher fans as supplemental cooling! Mathilda idles nicely at 500 rpm, which in traffic, alas, doesn't move much air or coolant. This is the situation a pusher fills in very nicely. While a REALLY GOOD shroud will enable a mech engine fan to pull a bit more air past the radiator when in hot stalling traffic, it doesn't add up to 3000 CFM, or even half that, which probably is a more realistic assessment of my cheap sinotrash pusher, especially when my super low idle doesn't engage the alternator. Mind you, as soon as I start moving, the alt kicks up to 14 V @ 60 A, giving the pusher plenty current, but the CRUCIAL state is when idling at stop! Such is the state I note engine temperature staying below 200F, thanks to Cold Case, Derale, and the nameless slaves who make those 16 inch electric pushers in such abundance. WITHOUT the pusher, temperature climbs to 210F in similar conditions.
Thank You very much I was reluctant to put the pusher fan in but that definetly seems to be the answer. Thanks again for taking the time. I am sorry I did not get back to you sooner I have been on vacation. Frank
 
Thank You very much I was reluctant to put the pusher fan in but that definetly seems to be the answer. Thanks again for taking the time. I am sorry I did not get back to you sooner I have been on vacation. Frank

No need to apologize! I'm delighted to render GOOD advice. A pusher fan is the most cost effective cooling system supplement currently available to us. One can ATTEMPT to contrive a custom shroud for a clutch fan with the Cold Case radiators, and I ALMOST did so, but again, the COST dictated the pusher, and I'm overjoyed with the results! Having grown up in steaming hot Ft. Worth, Tx, then moved to oven hot Tucson, I've driven for over 42 yrs in 100+ Fahrenheit urban environments, and know a little about what happens to 1960s era V8s in such climes.

You can get a good working pusher kit for as little as $40 off eBay. If you have more room in your budget, get something better, but be wary that a higher price tag doesn't ASSURE higher quality. Shop wisely. My kit at least is put together in Phoenix, AZ, which is hotter even than Too-stoned or Fukt-Worthless. So far, it has worked beautifully.
 
When you say the tank let go, do you mean where the tank solders to the core?

If that's all that's wrong and it was cooling OK before, all you need to solve your problem is a propane torch, solder and flux.

If you can sweat a joint on copper house plumbing, you can fix this rad. Get a brass wire wheel and clean up the area until it's nice and shiny. Heat up the joint some and brush in some flux and then continue until you see the old solder just start to soften and then dip a generous amount of flux on the new solder and add it to the puddle you have started until it sweats the joint full again. Takes longer to prep for it than to fix it.

Kevin
 
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