Drum heat from too tight axle play??

The new shoes will need to be arced to fit - if not, and there's hot spots on the drums, they will catch those spots even more and chatter will be amplified. Your drums should given only the lightest of turnings to smooth out - which may not result in a total elimination of chatter when braking unfortunately, but hopefully will. Arcing and light turning should smooth things out a lot.
 
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This aching of shoes & drums is a pain but needed part of the process to be perfect out of the box especially if turning drums near their limit.

If drums are readily available then I suggest you replace them even if they are cheaper Chinese replacements.

As a tech tip, I always check the drum & shoes before assembly. it saves a lot of time trying to check the arch with the shoes installed.
A little bit of non-seated arch is ok but once the drums get worn out then you will lose a lot of shoe material trying to arch the shoes.
Back when we could still get the arching done locally the shop would add a bit of extra meat to compensate for the near oversized drums.

Chatter about this is certainly becoming a lost art n the world of auto repair.

Pre-adjusting the shoes once assembled is always a good way to avoid any extra drag on one side compared to another.

Unfortunately the tools are not normally considered as part of a brake job.

https://www.amazon.ca/AMPRO-T71558-...ocphy=9000779&hvtargid=pla-496071113652&psc=1

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My problems may finally be over. I did order a new set of drums like Tom mentioned, but haven't got around to replacing them yet. I have a feeling the new shoes have mated up with the old drums better. I put 150 miles on her yesterday without a single vibration. I checked the temperature when I got home and the one wheel is cooler than it ever has been. My next test is to drive her on the same rough road, which I had issues on. If she passes that test I feeling like the problem will finally be solved.
 
My problems may finally be over. I did order a new set of drums like Tom mentioned, but haven't got around to replacing them yet. I have a feeling the new shoes have mated up with the old drums better. I put 150 miles on her yesterday without a single vibration. I checked the temperature when I got home and the one wheel is cooler than it ever has been. My next test is to drive her on the same rough road, which I had issues on. If she passes that test I feeling like the problem will finally be solved.

since I’m still struggling with similar issues I’m curious, did you change anything or do you figure that the heat issue has subsided due to the shoes ‘wearing in’ and mating to the drums?
 
since I’m still struggling with similar issues I’m curious, did you change anything or do you figure that the heat issue has subsided due to the shoes ‘wearing in’ and mating to the drums?
I didn't actually change anything. I had planned to, but I ran out of time and decided to hope for the best. Mine never heat up bad and I have been able to always drive it after it cooled for a short stop.

This isn't probably going to help you any unfortunately.

I will say I can't remember everything you changed on your car. I know an issue I had was when I installed my dual diaphragm booster I had to install a spacer between the master and booster because it was like I was riding the brake all the time. If you did change out your booster it is easy enough to install a couple flat washers to test this.

Good luck
 
I have replaced just about everything, including the master. I tried adjusting the rod length, no improvement in heat but pedal travel was aweful so I added length again.
Still working on it.
 
I have replaced just about everything, including the master. I tried adjusting the rod length, no improvement in heat but pedal travel was aweful so I added length again.
Still working on it.
That doesn't sound like your problem then. Mine you would barely touch the pedal and the brakes would engage. I had the correct feel once I installed the spacers.
 
You have the brake shoes reversed, the longer lining should face the rear of the car. The short lining is made of a different material than the long one (primary and secondary shoes) If installed backwards, the brakes heat up. The short shoe is designed to grab the drum and slightly shift the rear shoe to engage it hard. Installed as you have them, the shoe is trying grab all the time and is heating up your brakes. This seems to have been a common problem as of late. If you have the FSM there should be a photo of the correct installment. Down load most of them free at www.mymopar.com.

Dave
 
The photo is of the right rear. I was pretty sure that the short shoe was on primary.
Short lining shoe should be to the front of the car, if it is installed correctly, check the rear axle for excessive end play. f the bearing is not properly seated, this puts upward pressure on the axle and will cause the bottom of the shoes to rub on the brake drum. The shoes are fully closed, so you would not appear to have a travel rod or E-brake adjustment issue.

Dave
 
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