Left Hand Studs
- Thread starter ascari
- Start date
I had some installtion issues with my disc swap, but still one of the best improvements I made to my car.
The good news for you is everything that could go wrong on mine is documented here so you can refer to my thread on what not to do.
If you going to convert to discs you might as well convert to right handed studs now too.
The good news for you is everything that could go wrong on mine is documented here so you can refer to my thread on what not to do.
If you going to convert to discs you might as well convert to right handed studs now too.
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
It is a definite benefit@stubs300: Full circle!
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
Don’t forget Mike that Goldie is an example of what is right as wellI had some installtion issues with my disc swap, but still one of the best improvements I made to my car.
The good news for you is everything that could go wrong on mine is documented here so you can refer to my thread on what not to do.
If you going to convert to discs you might as well convert to right handed studs now too.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Don’t forget Mike that Goldie is an example of what is right as well
Stop it! Mike's head is already big enough. . .
mr. fix it
Old Man with a Hat
From the front drum hub or rear axle?
MrMoparCHP
Old Man with a Hat
What is the car and what brakes do you have?
Alan
Alan
@BIGBARNEYCARS - Love that story! So the moral of the story is I shouldn't get acorn nuts? LOL!
@300C - I'm almost about to join the RH camp. After all my car will always be a driver and not perfect, and I doubt the guy at the tire shop is an AACA Judge.
Trust me, been there and done it, and as far as perfection goes, remember, it's in the eye of the beholder unless you're being evaluated....
.........and the simple job of removing the brake drums on that 300C was a nightmare of grand and epoch proportions
as in tapered....I got them off and fortunately Kanter repops them....not cheap but new and that's when i did the RH conversions. I tried and tried to get those LH studs and I did the Google searches, called ALL of my sources, and only turned up a few as I mentioned earlier, at $8 per. Not worth it and besides, there not exposed, right? RH is ok!~Enjoy and obsess over more important things,
, like what your NEXT Mopar will be! 
See, life's grand.....
and you didn't switch to GM/Ford, or otherwise....... I'd like to know how you make out in the resolution of your lugs.....Best,
Bob/300C
AS an aside, the AACA judging is a cosmetic thing....factory correct as delivered from the factory. It only has to be driven onto the field; nothing is checked in terms of operation but everything must be OEM. If it isn't be prepared to document it. Radials on a '64 IMP were not available so I showed the car with bias ply tires. I got questioned my first time at Hershey about my plastic NAPA fuel filter' but because the judge wasn't totally sure about its appropriateness the car was not penalized. Once at home I checked the FSM and it appeared in the black and white photo that the filter was metal so I changed it. AACA has been fair, helpful, and positive. I'm sure others will disagree and that's ok. I've seen some pretty f'd up things happen, too, but to be fair, my experiences there have been very much ok....and about that tire guy? Make sure he knows what LH means on your studs!@BIGBARNEYCARS - Love that story! So the moral of the story is I shouldn't get acorn nuts? LOL!
@300C - I'm almost about to join the RH camp. After all my car will always be a driver and not perfect, and I doubt the guy at the tire shop is an AACA Judge.
@BIGBARNEYCARS - Love that story! So the moral of the story is I shouldn't get acorn nuts? LOL!
No, Not at all ascari. Just do your home work and do the best you can to have all the changing possibility's covered along the way, lol I had NO suppresses doing what I wanted to accomplish. And I'd do it again if the situation required it. I'm probably within inches of being the oldest member on this site. By the time I had reached my 15 year on this planet I'd learned that most anything with in reason you want to accomplish can be accomplished. And I've proven it too many times over the course of my life time
@300C - I'm almost about to join the RH camp. After all my car will always be a driver and not perfect, and I doubt the guy at the tire shop is an AACA Judge.
stubs300
Senior Member
@stubs300: Full circle!
Trust me, been there and done it, and as far as perfection goes, remember, it's in the eye of the beholder unless you're being evaluated....
.........and the simple job of removing the brake drums on that 300C was a nightmare of grand and epoch proportions
Enjoy and obsess over more important things,
Bob/300C
That's part of the problem with having a choice car like yours, you need to keep it the way it rolled off the factory. I had a Kanter catalog a long time ago, your not kidding about their prices.
Those look the same to me, except longer.
I didn't make it to my shop today as planned, but will be there over the weekend. I don't remember mine being different between the front and rear.
@mr. fix it Those two are from the front. I haven't popped out the damaged rear stud yet. Having too much fun!
@MrMoparCHP -66 New Yorker sedan with drums.
I like INCOGNITO UPGRADES, IF they are done and executed well. It's gotten hard to find LH lug nuts, for some time, much less the studs they screw onto.
Wheel studs are usually considered in a generic fashion, but that is not quite the case. The thickness and diameter of the head can vary some. The splines on the shank, on the OEMs are usually the full length of the shank and have a definite height to them. The threaded section is usually the most generic part of the stud. On OEM Chrysler lh and rh studs, the "L" and "R" are stamped into the ends. So, when possible, ensure that what you get meets the OEM level of things.
Back when the lh studs were common, almost every service station mechanic knew about them, usually making some remark about "Chrysler ________". Every OEM's vehicle had some brand-related quirks, which included the lug studs on Chrysler products. Just another example of Chrysler's "Extra Care in Engineering", which started waaayyy long ago, in this case. BTAIM.
One KEY thing that many techs didn't understand OR appreciate was that just because GM did things one way, it might not be THE BEST way to do things. No matter what. Especially if "the best way" cost a few cents more per vehicle. Ford, usually was a little better model to follow, sometimes. By observation, some Chrysler models required a variety of driver/owner "mouth positions" to get them to perform correctly. BUT once you mastered these things, it was great. Not everybody had that patience, by observation, so they were happier with a GM or Ford that better fit their temperaments and tastes. Which can leave more Mopars to those of us who know more of "the tricks" to make them work great.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
Wheel studs are usually considered in a generic fashion, but that is not quite the case. The thickness and diameter of the head can vary some. The splines on the shank, on the OEMs are usually the full length of the shank and have a definite height to them. The threaded section is usually the most generic part of the stud. On OEM Chrysler lh and rh studs, the "L" and "R" are stamped into the ends. So, when possible, ensure that what you get meets the OEM level of things.
Back when the lh studs were common, almost every service station mechanic knew about them, usually making some remark about "Chrysler ________". Every OEM's vehicle had some brand-related quirks, which included the lug studs on Chrysler products. Just another example of Chrysler's "Extra Care in Engineering", which started waaayyy long ago, in this case. BTAIM.
One KEY thing that many techs didn't understand OR appreciate was that just because GM did things one way, it might not be THE BEST way to do things. No matter what. Especially if "the best way" cost a few cents more per vehicle. Ford, usually was a little better model to follow, sometimes. By observation, some Chrysler models required a variety of driver/owner "mouth positions" to get them to perform correctly. BUT once you mastered these things, it was great. Not everybody had that patience, by observation, so they were happier with a GM or Ford that better fit their temperaments and tastes. Which can leave more Mopars to those of us who know more of "the tricks" to make them work great.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
That's a C body in 65
livininharrow
Senior Member
what part of craig from mobile parts response to studs he has available does no one understand.
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