Steer me in the right direction?
- Thread starter Shamu70
- Start date
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Ummmmm... Ya end up in the ditch?
Mine had a lot of slop. I could turn to 1:00 to 11:00 before it would engage. Chance are if you steering box is in that condition you probably need the front suspension rebuilt too.
Excessive play...always correcting the steering and wheel is never centered.
Anything more than 1/4 inch slop from side to side is considered worn out (when parked and move stering wheel left to right right to left)
Hope this helps.
Anything more than 1/4 inch slop from side to side is considered worn out (when parked and move stering wheel left to right right to left)
Hope this helps.
Already had good info, just to add on, many "pros" do a lousy job of narrowing down the sloppy component. I had a job once, on an old pickup, where the previous diagnosis had the customer convinced he needed the box... he was amazed when I had him lay on the floor while turning the wheel for him to see the pitman arm moving while the centerlink stayed still... could not duplicate that visual with the tires in the air.
I rebuilt one recirculating ball steering box, where one of the balls was no longer round... that one had a very tight spot while turning the wheel, but IDK how long they drove it like that before coming to me.
A leaking box, is a reseal, but also a good excuse to clean and inspect the insides... most "rebuilt" boxes are nothing more than a reseal anyhow.
rkrochen
Senior Member
It would probably be better if you told us what your concerns are first. What are the symptoms, have you checked the front end components and have you tried adjusting the ps box???
MarPar
Meat Man with a Hat
Here's some thoughts . . .
"Wear" can be an issue with the pitman shaft "output" shaft and its internal bushing. Which can also be related to a seal leak in that area.
"Slack" in the box can sometimes be adjusted out, but at BOTH adjustments (on the top of the box AND on the input side of the box). The input side needing some adjustment will be evidenced by the rag joint moving in and out as the steering wheel is turned off of center several degrees. This particular adjustment can masquerade as the "top of the box" adjustment needing attention, but it's not there.
If the "top of the box" adjustment is too tight, then the steering will not self-return from a corner as it should. It'll need driver action to do that, instead.
If the valve body on the box is not centered, or if there's some "sticking", then it might have the situation you describe after a lh turn. The FSM details how to address this situation.
So, to me, a steering box just does not "go out", it can "wear" and need some adjustments to the gears and such. Seals can leak or seep, as the hoses can do similar. Especially if the power steering is filled with "red fluid" rather than Power Steering Fluid (either OEM Chrysler or OEM GM), which is clear/translucent in nature.
With no major leaks, you might consider doing a full flush of the system and then put OEM-spec power steering fluid back into it, using a vacuum pump to get the air out of it.
IF the gears are worn enough to need replacement and will not adjust-up and act correctly, THEN a different box would need to be installed. Either from one of the two main Mopar-oriented rebuilders or upgrading to a Borgeson (late model Jeep) gear box set-up.
But, to me, as much as the boxes will cost, it might be worthwhile to do a fluid flush/change and check the adjustments first. Doing that has helped many rack and pinion units to be saved, on newer vehicles. Might be worth a try?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
"Wear" can be an issue with the pitman shaft "output" shaft and its internal bushing. Which can also be related to a seal leak in that area.
"Slack" in the box can sometimes be adjusted out, but at BOTH adjustments (on the top of the box AND on the input side of the box). The input side needing some adjustment will be evidenced by the rag joint moving in and out as the steering wheel is turned off of center several degrees. This particular adjustment can masquerade as the "top of the box" adjustment needing attention, but it's not there.
If the "top of the box" adjustment is too tight, then the steering will not self-return from a corner as it should. It'll need driver action to do that, instead.
If the valve body on the box is not centered, or if there's some "sticking", then it might have the situation you describe after a lh turn. The FSM details how to address this situation.
So, to me, a steering box just does not "go out", it can "wear" and need some adjustments to the gears and such. Seals can leak or seep, as the hoses can do similar. Especially if the power steering is filled with "red fluid" rather than Power Steering Fluid (either OEM Chrysler or OEM GM), which is clear/translucent in nature.
With no major leaks, you might consider doing a full flush of the system and then put OEM-spec power steering fluid back into it, using a vacuum pump to get the air out of it.
IF the gears are worn enough to need replacement and will not adjust-up and act correctly, THEN a different box would need to be installed. Either from one of the two main Mopar-oriented rebuilders or upgrading to a Borgeson (late model Jeep) gear box set-up.
But, to me, as much as the boxes will cost, it might be worthwhile to do a fluid flush/change and check the adjustments first. Doing that has helped many rack and pinion units to be saved, on newer vehicles. Might be worth a try?
Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
73Coupe
Senior Member
The shop manual clearly outlines the adjustment procedure for mesh of the box. Check that out....
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