67 Brake Lines on a 66?

GranTorinoSport

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So I converted over to a dual master on my 66 300. Power 4-wheel drum (yes, they are miserable). I did a really bad job on the new brake lines and want to just buy some pre-bent lines. I've had great luck with InLineTube over the years for Ford applications.

Will a 67 set work well enough on my 66? Or perhaps ask them for a mixed set with 66 lines to wheels, and 67 master-distro block lines?

Wondering experience of others. I know there is a kit floating around out there for dual master lines plus distro block, however one reviewer mentioned it was for a non-power setup and won't reach if you have power brakes because the booster pushes it all forward.
 
There is another option: take your car to a good brake shop and have them bend some lines for you. Since you are not doing the entire system this would get the job done for you; they will fit and work well.
 
Napa , and other places sells a line that you can almost bend by hand without kicking. Converted the 64 and made these lines from it.
DSC02503.JPG
 
I did Inline on my 66 300 converted to dual with power brakes, I did the 67 set. I am very happy.
 
Thank you everybody for the helpful information! I think I’ll go with a 67 set, which is what I was hoping was possible.
 
Grabbed the power brake parts and disc components from a 72 Newport for my 66 NYer years ago. Took everything from the master cylinder/booster to the prop valve. Was a direct install with no issues. I would recommend replacing the brake hoses if they are original while doing the work. I suspect the lines are the same for 65 - 73 with few differences.
Summit Racing has copper/nickel brake line available that can almost be bent by hand. If you have the original it should serve as a template.
 
Looks great man!! Is that Nicop? Did the coil protectors come with the line? Do you have a part number, or what do you ask them for to get that line.

I'm doing this now and working on modding the "65-66 C-Body" distribution block InLine Tube sells. I haven't finished designing the MC to block lines yet. Was hoping to use the InLine set...if not, I'll bend my own
 
So I converted over to a dual master on my 66 300. Power 4-wheel drum (yes, they are miserable). I did a really bad job on the new brake lines and want to just buy some pre-bent lines. I've had great luck with InLineTube over the years for Ford applications.

Will a 67 set work well enough on my 66? Or perhaps ask them for a mixed set with 66 lines to wheels, and 67 master-distro block lines?

Wondering experience of others. I know there is a kit floating around out there for dual master lines plus distro block, however one reviewer mentioned it was for a non-power setup and won't reach if you have power brakes because the booster pushes it all forward.

No, the setup they sell for 65-66 C-Body is NOT a direct bolt in and go. Honestly, nothing is for 65-66 single to dual. You have two options... Using the old distribution block and using the plug and adaptor method for the rear line, then bending you own MC to distribution block lines. Second choice is modding the InLine Tube set up with pre-bent lines and making it work.

I'm at that point now. The block needs to be flipped 180 degrees, cut off the 90 on the bracket, drill a hole in the chassis, and mount the block flat. For the side port, which is the right brake side, you can either bend the line to fit (very tight... Most likely will kink) or use a 90 inverted flare block screwed into the side of the InLine block.

Take some pics of what you have now... Does your block look like mine?

IMG_20191125_183414375.jpg


IMG_20191125_190824436.jpg
 
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I'm going to try this 90 block with the InLine block. That should get me the correct config on the block to have all lines come from the dual MC and out to thier respective lines. I just have to cap the unused port of the 90.

I'll be playing around with this soon, so I intend to post pics and my thoughts. Just wish InLine made a proper bolt in distribution block for our style/year cars when converting from single to dual.

Screenshot_20191130-110237~2.png
 
Just run the rear port to factory block and to front wheels. Run the front port on M/C to the rear axle. Plug any open ports on original block/rear one.
Viola a dual brake system. You will not have the brake emergency light but it is a tattle tale light that only works when you already have the problem (pedal went to floor). Difference is now you can pump it a few times and have enough brake to stop and find the problem. With the 66 single pot you can stick your head between your legs and ...well you know the rest.
 
I'm going to try this 90 block with the InLine block. That should get me the correct config on the block to have all lines come from the dual MC and out to thier respective lines. I just have to cap the unused port of the 90.

I'll be playing around with this soon, so I intend to post pics and my thoughts. Just wish InLine made a proper bolt in distribution block for our style/year cars when converting from single to dual.

View attachment 333739

Did you ever get this plumbed like this? How did it work? I just ordered a set of 67 lines and it is not a direct fit at the master cylinder. Looking to make modifying lines as easy as possible.

The threaded male part of that adapter - is that 1/8 NPT to fit into the existing distribution block? I see them for sale through InLineTube and on ebay.
 
No. I just went with my existing block and bent lines I bought from NAPA to go from MC to the block. I used a kitchen fire extinguisher for the circular bends and bought a hand tool for the 90s.

That block and the lines they sell are completely useless for 65-66 C-Bodies as a plug and play unless you get creative with plugs and drilling a hole to mount the bracket.
 
This weekend I began modifying lines from the 67 set from InLineTube to work on my 66 with dual master.

The two front lines (block to brake) needed modification on the block ends. Just not quite coming in at the right angle. I had this problem on the original 66 set I ordered, and I think I ended up pinching a line through the modification. So this time I was much more careful getting the ends where I think they need to be.

BLK243_8787aac9-50b8-451b-af17-68821395b4c4.jpg


This is the block I used from InLineTube. It has the top as both MC ports, one to the rear for rear and then in out the front and side for the two front block-to-brake lines.

Here is it installed:

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I reversed the mount bracket. The two lines going to the left and bottom of picture are what I buggered up trying to get them to get to the block at the right angle. The 67 lines should be good after the tweaks I did yesterday to them.

The basic premise for this work is brakes that have a super duper hard pedal with almost no stopping power even when standing on them. Two different power boosters and two master cylinders later, I realized it is a line problem (it happened right after I changed the lines) and need to correct.
 
Looks great man!! Is that Nicop? Did the coil protectors come with the line? Do you have a part number, or what do you ask them for to get that line.

I'm doing this now and working on modding the "65-66 C-Body" distribution block InLine Tube sells. I haven't finished designing the MC to block lines yet. Was hoping to use the InLine set...if not, I'll bend my own

The coil protector is sold at Amazon, summit, Jegs, etc. Amazon calls it 'brake line protector'. It stainless steel so it won't rust like the cheap steel the factory used. The nickel/copper line is sold there too. It won't rust either. I recommend using a double flaring tool when making lines. It's a more secure connection. Youtube has videos on this stuff.
 
Only problem I see there is no pressure reduction to the rear brakes. Makes a panic stop a change your underwear experience. The pressure reduction prevents the rear brakes from locking up and the rear end becoming the front end. It allows the rear to immediately start applying but limits the rate the pressure goes up.

There's a youtube video that explains how the later prop valve for dual chamber master cylinders has a lot more to them than the setup you a using. There is also a shuttle valve that locks out either the front or rear brakes if either line breaks. It also synchronizes the brake application so the rear brakes start to apply before the front to also prevent spinouts.
I believe this was introduced 1968. The prop valve is the same for B and C bodies so they are available.

This video explains it very well:
It's for a GM but the Mopar design is the same.

This was the first step in brake engineering on the path to anti-lock systems.
 
Yesterday I did manage to reverse the MC to block lines to the correct orientation (front=rear, rear=front).

John Kirby: You are correct the factory distribution blocks for 67/68 on up have the warning light indicator in them, however you are incorrect about the spring to hold off the rear brakes. That is for disc brake systems, and is part of what comprises a Proportioning Valve, where as drum/drum cars just have distribution blocks with no metering going on. While I am considering disc fronts, I have not done that yet.

As I have turned my focus to the front brakes, during some re-adjustment I found what appeared to be frozen wheel cylinders. Tearing down the front left drum brake I confirmed a seized wheel cylinder. This was rebuilt by me a few years ago (when the hard pedal and no braking started), and I remember the inside being pretty pitted, so I suspect I over-honed, or rather I honed almost enough but it was not a savable and should have simply been replaced. So I have obtained some new (Chinese, sadly) wheel cylinders and will begin replacing those.

Everything else is in accord (except for of course the right front seized brake), so I anticipate a drivable car once the brake work is complete.
 
Grabbed the power brake parts and disc components from a 72 Newport for my 66 NYer years ago. Took everything from the master cylinder/booster to the prop valve. Was a direct install with no issues. I would recommend replacing the brake hoses if they are original while doing the work. I suspect the lines are the same for 65 - 73 with few differences.
Summit Racing has copper/nickel brake line available that can almost be bent by hand. If you have the original it should serve as a template.
I fitted mine from a 73 Newport to my 66 Polara and it was a direct bolt in as well.
 
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