This is what I wrote in another thread. I just copied it to save some typing.
First is to buy yourself an engine leveler. Yea, we've all done the job without one, but it does make things easier if you are pulling the trans at the same time. An engine stand is also a very good investment.
Second is the torsion bars..... The way the trans mount is built in a C body, it's an integral part of the rear torsion bar mount in the stub frame. To do it right, the torsion bar adjustment needs to be backed off so there is no tension on the torsion bars. Then you can remove the trans crossmember safely. If you don't do this, the tension will try to twist the rear of the stub frame and if there's any weakness from rust, it can possibly twist the frame into a pretzel... If nothing else, it makes removal and installation much easier.
So... My procedure is basically this....
Remove radiator and engine accessories (alternator, P/S pump etc.). With a big block car, I like to remove the water pump housing as it gives me more room. Take the fan off as a minimum. I like to remove the lower pulley too, but some people don't. Disconnect the carb linkage. Remove the carb so you don't break it. Good time to bolt the leveler on the engine.
Remove hood.
Jack the car up and place jack stands under the frame about where the firewall is.
Unbolt the exhaust head pipes from the manifolds. The head pipes can stay in the car.
I personally think that if you don't need to pull the trans, leave it in the car.... I would unbolt the converter from the flex plate, push the converter back in the bell housing as far as it goes and place a pair of vise grips on the lower part of the bellhousing to keep the converter from sliding forward.
Get the hoist in position.
From here, this is leaving the trans in the car.
Place a floor jack under the trans pan and unbolt the trans. I like to leave a couple loose bolts in the bellhousing that I can reach from above.
Remove the motor mount bolts.
Take up the tension on the hoist and remove the loose bellhousing bolts.
Pull the engine...
Once it's out, you can cut a 2 x 4 so it lays across the torsion bars and drill a couple holes (they can be big and sloppy) so you can slide a couple bolts in the bellhousing and then you can take the jack out from under the trans, allowing you to move the car etc.
If you want to remove the trans at the same time, just remove the driveshaft, speedo cable, cooler lines and
back off the torsion bars. Put the hoist in place and place a floor jack under the trans. Remove the rear mount/crossmember. Place an old driveshaft yoke in the trans or, if you don't have one, put a plastic bag and rubber bands around the tailshaft. This will keep trans fluid from making a mess on the floor when you pull it out.
Take up the tension on the hoist and remove the motor mount bolts and pull the engine. The leveler will let you angle the engine so the trans can get by the firewall. Watch the tailshaft of the trans once it's out. It gets swinging and can take a windshield out or dent a cowl up.
I think that's about it... Just never get under the engine once it's unbolted and supported only by the hoist. Take it slow and stop and check everything often as it comes up. Lower the engine when moving the hoist once it's clear of the car. Common sense goes a long way...
Oh... and make sure that you have enough travel in the hoist and chain to lift the engine up far enough
AND lower the engine/trans combo to the ground... I've made this mistake! This is another reason that leaving the trans in the car can work out better... You only have to lower the engine to engine stand height if there's no trans attached.
Engine leveler.
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