Fuel line path

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Here you go.
View attachment 317079
Fuel pump to filter hard line.

View attachment 317078
Hard line from filter to carb.

Both pieces should be the same as a “B” body available from Classic Industries and others.

Thank you for the extra photos. My fuel pump has a nipple and 3/8 rubber hose attached to it. Maybe I will just have to get creative.

 

[ayilar]

I remember reading somewhere that EA4 was not a very "stable" color. I wonder if what you think is green might be a silver gone off. Meanwhile, here are some EA4 original photos:

1970 sport fury GT A4 silver platinum

Look at how this other EA4 Sport Fury looks greenish: 1970 sport fury GT A4 silver platinum

Here is another example, posted by @detmatt: Do Your Homework

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I will get you pictures

 

[saylor]

on the fuel pump R&R there is a pushrod driven off the cam that drives the pump arm you gotta mind that. there is a pipe plug to get at it if you have to.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thanks for the input. I also saw something on youtube about this. Trying to stay alive!!!!!

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I've been researching, do I need to prime the carb? The car hasn't been started since beginning of the year so it was sitting. New battery so the car is cranking but no gas getting up into the filter between the pump and the carb (mechanic put one of those plastic see thru one in line). Thus no gas getting to the carb.

 

[saylor]

remove the inbound line to the pump and see whats doin there. if its stinky old gas, or barely any comes out, etc., its ungood.
there is metal fuel line mostly except there are rubber pieces at the fuel sender and entrance exit going thru the frame. change all these rubber pieces out with new FI rated rubber fuel line from vatozone. the mechanical FP is a puller it creates negative pressure to draw fuel. this will collapse rubber fuel hoses if they are old. this will also pull air if there is a pinhole along the length, so again no fuel draw. lastly, vacuum = vapor lock (but you are not there yet).

you can unhook the line at the sending unit and at the FP and blow air thru if you have a compressor. but just change out all the rubber lines for sure.

I elected to install a mr gasket electric FP back by the tank / rear wheel area and ditched the mechanical FP with a blockoff plate. elec pump is a pusher not a puller, so there is no vacuum - we now have positive pressure. it also helps prevent vapor lock in heat, as pressure = higher boiling points same as a radiator. worked great. wire in a rollover switch or oil pressure switch to shut off the pump in case you rectum.

on my new motor I did put a mechanical FP back on, and left the elec pump as well. the main risk here is if the mech. FP gives up and I push fuel into the block... but we are at like 4 psi so..

lastly - psi. priming your carb = no don't do that. you just need fuel flow. generally speaking a carb expects 5psi-ish of fuel pressure. for a very short test, put a gascan on the roof of the car or hang it on the fence etc, and run a tube down to the carb. it has to be a few feet high so we get enough pressure from gravity. 1psi = 1foot IIRC (?)

have a fire extinguisher in case deficate interacts the rotational device.

if you have a bunch of hands, on the inbound line on the FP put your finger over the hole and crank the motor see if it has any suction.

that's all I got.

- saylor

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

What happened to try not to die? Thanks for the info. I will check the lines. I put 5 gallons of new gas in. Right now the fuel line from the pump to the carb is new. Put in a new gas tank last year so that shouldn't be mucked up at. Once again thanks for all of the help.

 

[rapidtrans]

Thank you for the extra photos. My fuel pump has a nipple and 3/8 rubber hose attached to it. Maybe I will just have to get creative.

The hard lines run about $25 for both.
I don't like rubber fuel line on top of my hot engine.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Although I get the sense that most people don't like them I did like have the clear fuel filter so I could see that there was gas getting thru.

 

[saylor]

agreed i used to run glass filters on all my cars so i could see fuel levels, until my friend burnt up a T/A because his the little rubber 0 ring gave up on one side and hot fuel all over everything the top of the motor double plus ungood.

try not to die -

- saylor

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Do I need to be worried about gas mixing in with the oil if there is an issue with the fuel pump (the diaphram being blown)? Someone that I work with mentioned this to me.

 

[Polara_500]

Fuel can leak into the engine where it dilutes the oil. So, yes, it can be an issue. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil for fuel contamination - but you may want to back away from the engine compt first to keep from smelling the carb or the like.

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

Thanks for everyones help, car was finally up and running yesterday. Felt good just to drive around the neighborhood with the top down. New fuel pump, new line from fuel pump to carb and fitting at the carb. Want to work on my tube bending skillls but she is running

And I didn't die.

 

[saylor]

why hell ya

 

[Cags70PolaraConvert]

I see traces of liver paint on the tag — no green.

What does the firewall look like? Behind the door panels? Pics?

Look at the door jamb there, that green is what I see at the firewall, under the trunk, ect. Doesn't seem like silver to me.

 

[ayilar]

That color indeed does not look like the EA4 color on your 1970 Polara convertible's tag. I am stumped, unless there was a complete repaint at some point in F8 or a similar color. I know of another Polara 'vert of the same year (originally BL1 beige) that was repainted in F8. In any event, @saforwardlook , @polara71 , other experts will need to chime in.

 

[ayilar]

(...) I happen to know of a good supplier for these.

@Cags70PolaraConvert -- did you get new fuel lines?

I have a related routing issue with Snow White, my '70 N-code Polara 'vert: the fuel line from the pump to the carb is not just incorrect, I am also not comfortable with the location. I would like to go back to original. Van's has lines for a '67-'72 A- or B-body or a '70-'71 E-body 383 and for '67-'72 400 and 440 on A- and B-bodies, but it's not clear to me whether either would work for a C-body.

@detmatt, @saforwardlook, @CBODY67 and anyone else with prior experience here, I am all ears for a supplier suggestion. The carb on my car is a Carter AVS 4734S that has just been rebuilt by @Dana. Here are a few pictures that @71Polara383 took.

 

[saforwardlook]

@Cags70PolaraConvert -- did you get new fuel lines?

I have a related routing issue with Snow White, my '70 N-code Polara 'vert: the fuel line from the pump to the carb is not just incorrect, I am also not comfortable with the location. I would like to go back to original. Van's has lines for a '67-'72 A- or B-body or a '70-'71 E-body 383 and for '67-'72 400 and 440 on A- and B-bodies, but it's not clear to me whether either would work for a C-body.

@detmatt, @saforwardlook, @CBODY67 and anyone else with prior experience here, I am all ears for a supplier suggestion. The carb on my car is a Carter AVS 4734S that has just been rebuilt by @Dana. Here are a few pictures that @71Polara383 took.

View attachment 364512

View attachment 364513

View attachment 364514

The Van's descriptor doesn't really help for a C body vehicle. What matters for a C body is whether you have an Carter (AVS or Thermoquad) or a Holley on your application. For your N code Polara, the correct line in their offerings would be for a Carter AVS:

FUEL LINE PUMP TO CARB 1967-1972 A, 1970-1971 E-BODY 383 CARTER AVS CHZLNE003

Van's descriptors of what someone would need even for A, B, and E bodies seems suspect to me and isn't as simple as they seem to suggest - there was more complexity than they as acknowledging I believe, but for you, the choice is clear.

 

[ayilar]

Thanks a lot! Anything else I would need, like clips or other sundry supplies specific for this?