K Frame Isolator

Read that cast iron K Frame isolators really tighten up a ride. Where can I find them?

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robndi43

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I read that cast iron isolators can really tighten up your ride versus rubber or poly.
Where can I find them for my '61 Chrysler.
I know, I know, ride quality will suffer. I'm willing to sacrifice that.
 
I read that cast iron isolators can really tighten up your ride versus rubber or poly.
Where can I find them for my '61 Chrysler.
I know, I know, ride quality will suffer. I'm willing to sacrifice that.

It is not only ride quality that suffers. The factory ones were rubber to keep metal parts from cracking due to excessive stress. Rubber is a good shock reducer to keep suspension and other structural parts from breaking. I would not install metal ones on any car that is going to be driven over rough roads.

Dave
 
Yea, no K frame or stub frame in a '61.

Full frame bolted directly to the body.
.
 
Even with the stub frame, solid metal bushings add NOTHING else to the car except transmit every vibration of every pebble on the road.
 
Even with the stub frame, solid metal bushings add NOTHING else to the car except transmit every vibration of every pebble on the road.
Still learning this car. Thanks for the education.
Read about the issue on the B body forum. Now figuring out, with all this help, that it doesn't apply to my car.
 
Even with the stub frame, solid metal bushings add NOTHING else to the car except transmit every vibration of every pebble on the road.
The bigger issue seems to be the complete lack of existent replacements for full-size Mopars of any year....

The thoughts of the required engineering has been bouncing around in my head, I have put thought into multiple materials.

For longevity and ride quality you're kinda screwed, you have to choose one or the other, the best materials to use would be either aluminum, polyurethane or some type of PVC or even Some style of closed cell rubber....
 
The 1961 Chrysler has a bolt on front subframe. The body is a unibody. Get a service manual and you can see how they are built. No K frame.

Last full frame Chrysler was 1959

If your car doesn’t drive good and you need to “tighten up the ride”, then first step is find and fix the problem causing the looseness. These cars usually drive very well.

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Still learning this car. Thanks for the education.
Read about the issue on the B body forum. Now figuring out, with all this help, that it doesn't apply to my car.

BBody's had rubber Isolated K frames starting in 73. All F, J, M and R bodies also did.

Additionally, you will be hard pressed to ever find any of those original cast iron pucks anymore unless your extremely lucky. If you are looking for a set of solid isolators for those cars, Firm Feel produce and sell aluminum ones. For the B and R bodies you would also want to replace the Isolated torsion bar mini pucks as well.
 
Not my car but here is a pic of the crossmember (black) and you can see the back of the torsion bar in the socket and the end shows the rubber bushings to the body of the car

torsion bar isolation.jpg
 
Would a set of sub-frame connectors give him the effect he's looking for?
 
How did we go from 61 Chrysler to B-bodies.
We didn’t, they did. LOL. Whatever works I guess.
Would a set of sub-frame connectors give him the effect he's looking for?

Start with the basics on a 58 year old car, first get the suspension tight. There is a rubber bushing between the column and the steering box, has that been checked? It can make it loose.

Basics first, then get fancy.
 
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