Before I hurt myself or cause more damage....

[Fast Eddie B]

... I’m sure someone knows what to do here! I understand the spring with unwind if I simply remove the motor. How do I need to secure that spring or the components it is holding...

Thanks in advance.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Stick some screwdrivers or a bolt with a nut through the holes so that it can't unwind. Let the spring load the regulator arm up against the bolt to hold it in place.

 

[detmatt]

Or just take a pair of vise grips’s and clamp the thing with the teeth on it to the thing that the motor is bolted to.

 

[Ross Wooldridge]

Vice grips can let go if one bumps up against the release lever... just sayin'. Bolting it down makes it impossible.

 

[75LandYacht]

... I’m sure someone knows what to do here! I understand the spring with unwind if I simply remove the motor. How do I need to secure that spring or the components it is holding...

Thanks in advance.

View attachment 326606
View attachment 326607

What car that come from Eddie? I need to do the same to my 77 NYB.

 

[1978 NYB]

Stick some screwdrivers or a bolt with a nut through the holes so that it can't unwind. Let the spring load the regulator arm up against the bolt to hold it in place.

What car that come from Eddie? I need to do the same to my 77 NYB.

If you have a FSM it will have clear instructions on how to safely remove and repair it.

The simple answer is to drill a hole through both arms of regulator and use a bolt and nut to secure it. This is a very dangerous spring and if it does comes apart it is very difficult to restoring the spring back in place.

 

[Dobalovr]

I used the bolt method on my 70 worked excellent. If I was really smart I would have used the bolt method while still in the door rather than fishing it out then trying to install it afterwards.....

BTW you drill a hole through the door panel and the regulator together then install bolt and voila no broken limbs!

 

[thrashingcows]

When I was removing the rear quarter PW mechanism on the 68 Coronet vert I restored... I was still pretty green to old cars....I removed the motor while I had my arm stuck in through the body and around the mechanism....well it came around like a guillotine and I was trapped in there for at least and hour before I managed to free myself. Thankfully no long term damage but sure gave me a healthy respect for those power window mechanisms. ;)

 

[1978 NYB]

I used the bolt method on my 70 worked excellent. If I was really smart I would have used the bolt method while still in the door rather than fishing it out then trying to install it afterwards.....

BTW you drill a hole through the door panel and the regulator together then install bolt and voila no broken limbs!

Or missing fingers!

 

[Fast Eddie B]

What car that come from Eddie? I need to do the same to my 77 NYB.

77 T&C

 

[Fast Eddie B]

If you have a FSM it will have clear instructions on how to safely remove and repair it.

The simple answer is to drill a hole through both arms of regulator and use a bolt and nut to secure it. This is a very dangerous spring and if it does comes apart it is very difficult to restoring the spring back in place.

The FSM started with some crazy method to remove the glass first and then the regulator. I didn’t read much further than that before looking here and finding out I can sneak it out the bottom.

I’ll read further and see what they reco.

there are a couple of holes that look like they line up and will try and align them.

now, for someone who has had them apart, if the gear is stripped now and I could move the window up and down, manually, what is stopping the spring from unwinding now with the regulated unbolted from the door frame? Isn’t the motor and gear what is holding it locked in place right now?

 

[detmatt]

I’m probably going on a 7 or 8 motor replacements on my silver car and just did 4 on the green coupe earlier this year. I no longer pull the regulator out of the door when I do it and never have had a locking plier fail on me. Come to think of it as a metal fabricator in some of my work and restoration projects I can’t remember EVER bumping a locking plier loose that took any effort to squeeze shut.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

Well, I used the bolt method.

found my problem.

 

[Fast Eddie B]

NEXT!

where do I find one of these?

 

[detmatt]

There’s a familiar site. The motor that is.
As far as that roller goes it doesn’t look anything like the ‘60s stuff I have here.

 

[Samplingman]

All the info you need for the motor rebuild is in the thread:

How to rebuild Chrysler Power Window motor clutch assembly

@71Polara383 should have parts for the regulator arms.

 

[75LandYacht]

Pm sent Eddie

 

[twostick]

For future endeavors, make note of where the 3 bolts that hold the motor to the regulator are and drill a 3/8" hole through the inner steel door panel so you can get at them with a 1/4 drive socket. As long as the regulator is still connected to the glass and bolted to the door, you can reach in and hold the motor and spin out the bolts and remove it safely in just a few minutes. Very low risk of bloodshed and no wrestling with that long handled regulator trying to figure out how to hold your face so it comes out through the hole in the door.

Kevin

 

[detmatt]

Window up, quick grip clamp on the glass at the door beltline, remove all but the forward most fastener holding the reg to the door, loosen by a couple of turns the last one and install locking plier where I mentioned above. At this point you can get at 2 of 3 fasteners holding the motor to reg, remove the last bolt holding the reg to the door and Move it far enough to access the last bolt holding the motor to the reg through the same hole used to get the other 2 out. Grab the new motor and reverse the process. Make sure you clean any old grease out from around all the moving parts and squirt some new in. In the rear of my coupe it takes longer to get at the motors than it does to actually R & R them and I’ve got the doors down to 30 or 40 minutes per.

 

[Mr C]

NEXT!

where do I find one of these?

View attachment 326707

That wheel/ guide looks okay. What's wrong with it? As long as it isn't falling off and is free wheeling, you're good. All it does is slide in the track...
I'm thinking clean it well and lube up what you've got...unless there's something there I'm not seeing (chunk missing?).