Can't be aligned?

[WissaMan]

This post is referring to my 68 New Yorker and goes way back to the early 90's. But I'm asking it now since I'm in the early stages of restoring it.

Back then, it was wearing the driver side tire on the inside, so I took it to a very reputable alignment shop in town. He said he couldn't align it, not because he didn't have the skill but because something was wrong.

Unfortunately, I can't remember if he ever told me what was wrong or what part was bad. So I have no idea what could be wrong. The only thing I can remember is that at one point I turn a turn too tight, to avoid another car, and the front passenger tire hit the curb. What could I have damaged by doing that? Hopefully nothing that can't be replaced. I'd hate to get the car all finished and then find something is terribly wrong that can't be fixed/replaced.

 

[Davea Lux]

This post is referring to my 68 New Yorker and goes way back to the early 90's. But I'm asking it now since I'm in the early stages of restoring it.

Back then, it was wearing the driver side tire on the inside, so I took it to a very reputable alignment shop in town. He said he couldn't align it, not because he didn't have the skill but because something was wrong.

Unfortunately, I can't remember if he ever told me what was wrong or what part was bad. So I have no idea what could be wrong. The only thing I can remember is that at one point I turn a turn too tight, to avoid another car, and the front passenger tire hit the curb. What could I have damaged by doing that? Hopefully nothing that can't be replaced. I'd hate to get the car all finished and then find something is terribly wrong that can't be fixed/replaced.

Most likely you have a bent upper or lower control arm on the driver side. The lower one is the more sturdy of the two, so I would check upper one first. If the car was in a side impact collision on the driver side, it is also possible that there could be some frame damage on that side. The FSM gives frame measurements that can be checked to verify damage. Look at the attachment points on the driver side for the upper control arm and check for any signs of stress, such as cracked welds or distortions to the frame. The other thing to check would be to remove the pivot bolts from the eccentric for the upper control arms as they sometimes also get bent and a small bend there can have major effects on alignment.

Dave

 

[Davea Lux]

As a follow up, bad upper or lower control arm bushings and also lead to severe alignment issues.

Dave

 

[66Newyorker]

You said you were wearing the inside of the front left (drivers) side. You hit the right front (passenger) side. Hitting the right front won’t cause the left front to wear the inside. Wearing the inside of the tire is usually caused by too much negative camber, the top of the tire being tipped in. Being a 50 year old car I would suggest checking for bet parts and replacing upper and lower control arm bushing and Baal joints if they have play also check the steering linkage part for wear. Then see if it can be aligned.

 

[WissaMan]

Well, so maybe it was a coincidence...the curb hit and the wearing tire. I hope so. I had BFGoodrich radials on it and drove it pretty hard, so I certainly wouldn't be surprised that bushings all around are shot to hell. I doubt any of those things were replaced ever. Maybe when my Dad drove it (til around '82) but once it went to my brother and then to me I don't think there was any suspension work done.

 

[rapidtrans]

To bend a control arm you would have bent the rim severely.
I’ve been there. (I can still see that wire wheel cover flying through the air)
As you don’t mention the car pulling, I would bet the upper control arm bushings.

 

[mrfury68]

51 year old rubber has pretty much out lived its usefullness. Put all new bushings on that front end and you will be surprised how nice it rides.

 

[Gerald Morris]

New rubber will help before aligning. My 66 Newport has still got a bad appetite for tires, but having replaced swaybar bushings last week and shocks helped quite a lot. Unfortunately, I suspect I got some aged rubber in the LCA bushings I installed 2 yrs ago, and am going to have to do that part of the job over soon. Also, I will be more attentive to keep the camber in spec, which is, just SLIGHTLY negative, instead of slightly positive. Same for toe-in. Mathilda holds the road wonderfully, but the price has been high......

 

[WissaMan]

I don't remember it pulling badly to one side and I didn't damage any rims, so I'm cautiously optimistic that it's just the bushings

 

[CBODY67]

ONE thing to remember . . . when replacing any rubber bushing that twists, do NOT do the final torquing of the pivot bolt until the car is "on the ground" (not with the car jacked-up off the ground). Then jounce the car a time or two to ensure the suspension is at "ride height" (or the center of its travel) so that when tightened, the respective bushings will not have any pre-load on them, rather being in the center of their travel (neutral position). This can extend the flexibility life of the bushing . . . or that's what's claimed, which makes sense to me.

My experiences with our Chryslers is that they hold alignment as good as any other car, even with the eccentric-cam adjusters (rather than shims). The tire wear (on one tire only) could have been from the LCA rubber pivot bushing "taking a set" due to age and deterioration. It has to be pressed into place, as I recall, on the LCA. So not "bolt-in".

Enjoy!
CBODY67

 

[savoy64]

find a better alignment shop----tell them about the incomplete report by the first shop---the alignment shop may try to sell you a job but that is ok......

 

[WissaMan]

Thanks for all the tips and advice.

It was so long ago, I honestly can't remember the full details of this story. It was probably just not alignable without some sort of, possibly costly, repair. I was in college at the time and had almost no money so my Dad was helping me out. And he probably thought he was helping me by convincing me to give up on the old girl and get something more practical. In all honesty, it did need other work -- body was rusting pretty badly, rear left springs were shot (one had a broken front eyelet even), A/C compressor seized, PS pump leaked and the bracket was wobbly. It also got < 10mpg . Probably other things I'm forgetting ATM. But I loved that car even then and that's why I never got rid of it.