Does anyone drive a C Body as a daily driver year round?

[Joseph James]

Hey Everyone,

I thought it would be interesting to see who here on FCBO actually drives a C Body daily or at least semi-daily year round? I am asking this because I am looking to determine if doing so is a sacrilege or not.

Also, if you do drive a C Body (or any classic for that matter) year round and you live in a snow State, what do you do to protect against corrosion? We all know rust is the biggest killer of any classic car.

Yes. My 68 Sport Fury is my daily. I started driving it last March or April. If/when we get snow I will ride with the wife in her AWD VW. I live in the mountains and we get a few snows every year. They spray brine. I won’t drive it until things are clear.

I don’t consider it a sacrilege to drive a C body daily. To me, it’s a car and meant to be drove. Some members who get a lot of snow up North can be understood for not wanting to drive in Winter.

Different strokes and all. Consider I am about ready for a new stub frame and trunk pan and floor pans. Possibly a new driver side fender depending on what my body shop friend says. Mainly, I enjoy driving all week and fixing things over the weekend.

 

[furious70]

You can get agreed value coverage and still drive it a bunch these days, wasn't always true.
I drove mine the first winter I had it, never since. Have had rusty 2 doors or crew cabs in the winter, 2012 charger has been dd since new

 

[The Goose]

There's nothing wrong with making your C-body a DD. I don't do it because Hagerty won't insure a car that is a DD. (I believe this is true for all classic car insurance companies) I like having full value replacement insurance, so I drive my C-body Fury's on special occasions and drive my 1990 Dodge W150 as my DD.

Might think about dumping the hag and moving on to Stated Value or Agreed Value. No limits no exemptions no curfew just go drive it. You agree w the agent on what the check is cut for under a total loss and off you go. I pay State Farm $180 every 6 mos for $12500 agreed value on a car I got maybe 4500 bucks in. Go ahead crook make my day $$Lol$$ !!!

Our agent (my uncle ) said that $12k would’nt buy 1/2 a new Toyota so it’s small potatoes (is to me & he meant no offense) AND we know you’ll take care of the car or you wouldn’t be looking at this kind of coverage. Check into it and lose the nanny insurance.

Most don’t need an appraisal they know the values...

 

[Joseph James]

Might think about dumping the hag and moving on to Stated Value or Agreed Value. No limits no exemptions no curfew just go drive it. You agree w the agent on what the check is cut for under a total loss and off you go. I pay State Farm $180 every 6 mos for $12500 agreed value on a car I got maybe 4500 bucks in. Go ahead crook make my day $$Lol$$ !!!

Our agent (my uncle ) said that $12k would’nt buy 1/2 a new Toyota so it’s small potatoes (is to me & he meant no offense) AND we know you’ll take care of the car or you wouldn’t be looking at this kind of coverage. Check into it and lose the nanny insurance.

Most don’t need an appraisal they know the values...

This.

My wife the insurance agent got a stated value policy on the Fury. She wanted to write me Hagerty but said I couldn’t drive it. Screw that. I got 10k stated value policy. If I get totaled I will take my check and buy another C body.

 

[furious70]

Not stated value, get agreed value.
I thought even haggerty had higher mileage polices now.

 

[NWPT70]

I have American Collectors. Agreed value for over $10k. Higher is mileage allowed. $150 for the entire year.

 

[The Goose]

I have American Collectors. Agreed value for over $10k. Higher is mileage allowed. $150 for the entire year.

Do they have a garage rule? A lot of collector type policies demand it be parked inside while not in use. This is another reason to throw off the chains of limited use collector car insurance.

Not that I’m anti-garage but in the real world sometimes it’s outside overnight.

 

[furious70]

Where else can you get agreed value?

 

[The Goose]

Where else can you get agreed value?

I believe any real insurance dealer. Just have to ask. My buddy’s dad was my first agent and explained it to me in the 80’s. The reason mine went up from about $200 a year was I cranked up the medical & uninsured underinsured and my max liability. I did this after I got hit by a red light runner who totaled my mustang convertible. I probably overdid it...

 

[Daniel Romero]

I drive my 73 Fury year round and I live in Colorado. I’ve had it since July 2016 and it had 67K miles then and now it’s at just under 91K. I’ve driven it in rain, sleet and snow. I drove it from Pueblo to Avon and back all in one day in blizzard conditions last Presidents Day. I’ve taken it to a few concerts in Denver and a few basketball games at the Pepsi Center. As long as gas prices and the costs of maintaining it remain within my means I have no plans to change up my mode of transportation.

 

[3C's & a D?]

I once bought a really rusty '71 Newport custom, 4door hardtop, for 800$, as a parts car. Once I had drove it 80 miles home, I realized it was a driver. Put that ol' brute through two Edmonton winter's, (6+ months) each, with minimal maintenance. Ended up putting about 13,000 miles on it. Would have lasted longer, but the original nylon timing chain skipped a couple cogs a 110 MPH, and I decided that was it. The parts live on! With a nice car? Even with all of the corrosion protection available, that won't help you avoid someone who doesn't know how to drive, sliding into to you. Same can be said of any day of the year, winter does up the odds though.

 

[3C's & a D?]

Do they have a garage rule? A lot of collector type policies demand it be parked inside while not in use. This is another reason to throw off the chains of limited use collector car insurance.

Not that I’m anti-garage but in the real world sometimes it’s outside overnight.

I've been with Hagerty, under a few other Canadian brokers, for a few years now. Just added another this last year, so rates increased a bit, still a steal though. I believe there is the garage rule. Of course, as you mention, life happens. Not a deal breaker. And I'm pretty sure they don't have "garage police" checking up on you. Regarding the "agreed value", up here they let you decide your own value up to 15 - 20,000$? After a certain number they want an appraisal. The more you want your car to be insured for, the more your insurance costs. I couldn't believe they didn't require a safety inspection! That's Alberta for you.

 

[Wildaugust]

No. I try to get her parked for winter just before they throw the salt. If we didn't have winter then I would. I probably wouldn't bother with a late model at all and would just drive my Newport, Meteor and truck in rotation as dailys. I have some rust, mainly lower quarters and driving it year round would quickly cause the rust to get worse. It wouldn't likely be worth fixing at that point. I still want to be able to fix it

 

[Cortez]

I asked this question a while back about my 67 vert and got flamed but I have come to realize it isn't what anyone thinks but you and so long as you are prepared for every situation take pride in being "that Guy" that drives the old school 24/7

 

[Carmine]

 

[King Hooter]

I get enough grief about driving the Challenger all year long.

 

[NWPT70]

I don't like the idea of driving any car around other drivers when it snows. I trust myself but not anyone else around me. Drivers in there Tri-state area drive like they are in the taliban. It is also usually the case that on the free way the cars in front of you are blowing salt dust in your face.

 

[1970FuryConv]

I don't like the idea of driving any car around other drivers when it snows. I trust myself but not anyone else around me. Drivers in there Tri-state area drive like they are in the taliban. It is also usually the case that on the free way the cars in front of you are blowing salt dust in your face.

Agree. Virginia drivers are complete idiots in the snow. I never drive my C-body's in the snow because I don't want to sacrifice my cars at the altar of snow stupidity. I drive my 1990 Power Ram W150. Run into that, you morons.

 

[thrashingcows]

I used to drive my 2dr 70 sport fury as my year round daily driver for over 3 years. You have to be proactive about corrosion prevention. I would use engine oil in a hand pump bottle and spray inside the rear quarters, doors, fenders, rockers and use a long hose to dribble oil into the subframe and unibody frame on the car. Never really had too much deterioration and I live up in BC Canada.

I have been driving my old 1984 W350 Crewcab cummins conversion year round for a decade now, again all above rust prevention methods are done at least twice a year. But it is still a bit of a battle, but not having a huge vehicle payment and being able to fix whatever goes wrong with it and not have to pay through the nose at the repair shop or Stealership is worth it to me.

I recently purchased a 18" 360* hose attachment for a can of Fluidfilm and have been using that as well for the last year or so....works really well for doing inside frame rails and other tight locations.

 

[Joseph James]

I used to drive my 2dr 70 sport fury as my year round daily driver for over 3 years. You have to be proactive about corrosion prevention. I would use engine oil in a hand pump bottle and spray inside the rear quarters, doors, fenders, rockers and use a long hose to dribble oil into the subframe and unibody frame on the car. Never really had too much deterioration and I live up in BC Canada.

I have been driving my old 1984 W350 Crewcab cummins conversion year round for a decade now, again all above rust prevention methods are done at least twice a year. But it is still a bit of a battle, but not having a huge vehicle payment and being able to fix whatever goes wrong with it and not have to pay through the nose at the repair shop or Stealership is worth it to me.

I recently purchased a 18" 360* hose attachment for a can of Fluidfilm and have been using that as well for the last year or so....works really well for doing inside frame rails and other tight locations.

What would work well to disperse the oil? I have several gallons that have come out of my Fury. Would be nice to be able to use it.