For Sale Not mine 74 Fury III $2850. Looks good

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Joseph James

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Low price. I don’t know what a 74 is worth but for a runner she doesn’t seem bad.

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1974 Plymouth with a little over 72,000 original miles. It is the base model and does not have AC or power windows. It has an AM/FM radio but the front speaker is blown. It has a 400 c.i.d engine with a 2bbl Holley, it was pulled from a field in Indiana and shipped here and I've done some work as you can tell but it's far from being completed. It does have rust but is still pretty solid for sitting in a field all those years. It’s not driven as we have gotten another vehicle. It does need an exhaust and maybe a distributor, but it is very drivable.Please no lowball offers I won’t respond. PRICE IS NEGOTIABLE. NO REASONABLE OFFER WILL BE REFUSED. I will accept cash with something of value


1974 Plymouth Fury III
 
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This car shows some salt exposure, especially on the underside. This could be a good driver quality car with some work, would probably need a complete brake system rebuild, a set of tires and a quality undercoat and sealing job to limit further rusting. Probably also has some rust on the rear window channel and the lower front fender on the driver side has bondo, suggests car may have been gone over at least once.

Dave
 
This car shows some salt exposure, especially on the underside. This could be a good driver quality car with some work, would probably need a complete brake system rebuild, a set of tires and a quality undercoat and sealing job to limit further rusting. Probably also has some rust on the rear window channel and the lower front fender on the driver side has bondo, suggests car may have been gone over at least once.

Dave

How bad do 74 emissions rob that 400 of power?
 
I transcribed this from MyMopar for the two engines that went standard into 1974 Furys:

360-2
1972 175hp@4000, 285ft-lbs@2400
1973 170hp@4000, 285ft-lbs@2400
1974 180hp@4000, 290ft-lbs@2400

400-2
1972 190hp@4400, 310ft-lbs@2400
1973 185hp@3600, 310ft-lbs@2400
1974 185hp@4000, 315ft-lbs@2400

No catalyst on these years and I can't recognize a tendency of dropping ratings. The 360-2 had its best year in 1974, whereas the 400-2 lost some power but gained in torque. I prefer torque over power in these cars. Therefore the 400-2 would be the better choice, with 25ft-lbs more on offer.
 
I transcribed this from MyMopar for the two engines that went standard into 1974 Furys:

360-2
1972 175hp@4000, 285ft-lbs@2400
1973 170hp@4000, 285ft-lbs@2400
1974 180hp@4000, 290ft-lbs@2400

400-2
1972 190hp@4400, 310ft-lbs@2400
1973 185hp@3600, 310ft-lbs@2400
1974 185hp@4000, 315ft-lbs@2400

No catalyst on these years and I can't recognize a tendency of dropping ratings. The 360-2 had its best year in 1974, whereas the 400-2 lost some power but gained in torque. I prefer torque over power in these cars. Therefore the 400-2 would be the better choice, with 25ft-lbs more on offer.

The 400 is the better of the two engines. Stronger and generally more reliable. Original emissions caused problems on both engines. The EGR valves were a piece of crap and often leaked which in turn caused erratic idiling and poor overall performance. The 2BBL carbs were also a POS on both engines. Blocking of the EGR port and replacement of the OEM carb will result in significantly better performance and fuel economy on both engines.

Dave
 
360-2
1974 180hp@4000, 290ft-lbs@2400
1975 180hp@4000, 290ft-lbs@2400
1976 170hp@4000, 280ft-lbs@2400
1977 155hp@3600, 275ft-lbs@2000

400-2
1974 185hp@4000, 315ft-lbs@2400
1975 175hp@4000, 300ft-lbs@2400
1976 175hp@4000, 300ft-lbs@2400

In 1975 the catalyst is introduced on the 360-2, but the rating doesn't change a bit! Power starts dropping only from 1976 on and goes off the cliff in 1977. So if there was a power loss between 1974 and 1975, it must have been less then 5hp. Power is stated in steps of 5, just like torque. It keeps me wondering what factors determined the ratings slide in 1976 and 1977.

For the 400-2 the rating drops right in 1975 and holds steady in 1976.
 
The 2BBL carbs were also a POS on both engines. Blocking of the EGR port and replacement of the OEM carb will result in significantly better performance and fuel economy on both engines.

Dave
Hi Dave
My 72 Suburban really stinks of rich mix and I want to replace the stock carb... A refurb stock unit at O'Reilly is about 225.00.. what carb do you recommend as an alternative?
 
Hi Dave
My 72 Suburban really stinks of rich mix and I want to replace the stock carb... A refurb stock unit at O'Reilly is about 225.00.. what carb do you recommend as an alternative?

I would probably not recommend a reman unit from most auto parts, my experience is that it usually take two or more of them to get one that actually works. Need to know which engine. I suspect you probably have a Holley 2200 series if the application is a 2BBL. If all you have is a carb that is running rich, it probably has a float with bad seams from moonshine blend gas or a bad needle and seat. That can be fixed by installing a carb kit and a new float. These are a fairly simple carb to rebuild if that is all that is wrong. A lot of Holley carbs had the air horns warped from over tightening of the air cleaner mount stud and there are few good fixes for that outside of a factory reman.

Holley shows a direct replacement #0-7448 for the 2200/2300 series. That will run you something over $300 by the time you have it in you hand. If this is a 400 engine, you might be able find an aftermarket 383 manifold set up for a 4BBL, that would offer some better alternatives for carbs. If you want to go exotic, FiTech now offers a 2BBL injection system that is a bolt on to most 2BBL applications, this does require electronic ignition. Just some thoughts. Depends on how much you are comfortable spending.

Dave
 
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