Wyatt convinced me to destroy my 71...

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The finish will be black, but some of you know I'm colorblind, and black is black is black to me. I can't see the difference.
Should the finish be flat black, gloss black or something else so that it will look close to original?...

I believe it should be a satin/semi-gloss finish, like the inner fenders. What did you use on the air cleaner?
 
Black wrinkle powder coating .
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In this instance because it won't have direct sunlight exposure the gloss level won't matter, but for things exposed to sunlight a general rule of thumb is that higher gloss is more UV stable.
That depends on how much time the hood spends open showing off the engine bay when the car is done!!! :lol::lol:
 
That depends on how much time the hood spends open showing off the engine bay when the car is done!!! :lol::lol:
Which will hopefully be like 3 minutes at a time here and there. These cars look ridiculous with their hoods open.:stop:
 
I used to open the hood at car shows, but I usually leave it closed now. I don't have an issue with opening it to show someone who's into C bodies when at an event.
 
Soon after the tear down started, Wyatt came over and began to take the rest of the stub frame apart.
It's always fun working with him, shooting the $hit, and not having to have a boring moment while the day goes by.
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Went out back to verify the casting numbers on the cylinder heads, thinking they would be 906's (casting#2843906), but to my surprise the casting number is 3462346. Got me thinking what could be the difference for Chrysler's HP 440?
Went to the Mopar casting reference page and found the 3462346 has the same Chamber volume/79.5cc, Intake Valve/2.08 and Exhaust valve/1.74 as in the 2843906 head. No other head castings were the same.
The 72/73 head casting had the same number, as well as the intake & exhaust numbers but the Chamber volume was 81.5cc.
I'm guessing this was because of emissions?
I was pretty certain this car was number's matching, and took a few pics for the record.
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906 was 68-70 the 902, 346, I think 230 are all variations of the basic 906 idea. Some of the later castings would have hardening process on the seats, with true induction hardening not showing up till the 452.
I would not put too much faith in volume (cc) numbers as they can be all over the place.
The 906 heads that I am putting on my race car are cut alot (dead area across from the plug is flat with gasket surface, and they measure 80 cc) so 79.5 is a pipe dream for uncut factory machining. The factory untouched 452 heads I have on my Charger measured out at 91 cc. What is the casting date on them. Numbers on the other runners
 
The work you guys are doing is very inspiring. Keep it up while I live through you vicariously. LOL

Also I’d like to get first Dibs when you guys open up your C body restoration shop. LOL
 
Trying to source a torsion bar tool today from the various local auto parts store and came up with a big fat 0. Wyatt stopped by today and used his ingenuity, and devised a plan with some stuff that was laying around the shop. A couple muffler clamps, a piece of wood, and to keep it from sliding...a small piece of sand paper and a rubber glove for a better grip. It worked.
This will be going to get sand blasted and powder coated this week.
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Getting deeper into the engine, I coming to the realization this will be needing a bit more than clean up and re-gasketing.
My list is going to be a lot longer that anticipated by the time it is ready to go back in, but I'm OK with that and don't want to do a half assed job, and keeping my fingers crossed nothing will happen. If this engine isn't built correctly I'm going to hate my self for not doing it the right way.
You'll get the idea when you see what I seen today....
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I didnt want to find this...but I was always told to pull the caps furthest from the oil pump to check bearings for wear instead of pulling every cap. Welp. Better we found out this way then after it's back together and running.

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I had the same thing happen on a 71 300 I got from Michigan. An old lady drove the car for many years after buying it new and I got it from a guy that bought the car at an auction of her estate. When I went to start the car for the first time, it had bad knock from one of the rods. After pulling the pan I found oil much thicker than yours. She apparently never changed the oil on the car after some 80K miles of driving. I had to replace the crank to get it in spec. Ended up rebuilding the whole engine and very glad I did. It ran great after all of that, some $$$ later. You are doing things the right way. :thumbsup:
 
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