Starter relay question

C Body Bob

Old Man with a Hat
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On my 66 300. Sometimes it acts up. Starts then nothing. Rock Auto list one with auto trans as part # SR105. Local parts store doesn’t have a listing for auto trans but power windows. The part guy & I think that may be a typo & is the auto trans version. However it’s # SR102. I don’t know which one to get. Anybody know for sure or will either work
 
Maybe check a factory parts manual and see if there was a different SR for auto and manual. I can't imagine there would be, or power windows for that matter.
 
Don't know the answer for sure, but it's not a typo i don't believe. It looks to me like it's the same switch but with different mounting. I would think yours would be the SR105 given the mount style. I did'nt think auto or manual made a difference to the switch either. It's just that the clutch makes the ground connection on a manual instead of the neutral safety switch on an auto. HTH. Lefty71
 
It shouldn't matter, the relays will work for either car...
Be careful though, sometimes the no-name brand ones will have the assembly put in upside-down in the housing... you may have to bend the housing tabs out, flip over the relay assembly and put it back in...
3996174_bwd_s105_thmb.jpg

see this thread...
Forums / General Tech / Replacement Starter Relay Upside-Down???? - C-Body DryDock
 
Early cars would have manual and auto difference because no safety switch on clutch pedal (which should be disconnected to save your thrust bearing in a occasionally use car). You can use the auto in a manual car just leave the blade connected to nothing.
Bob.are you sure it's not the single pin switch on the trans?
I would ground the terminal on the relay and try it for a while to see. Be careful though grounding it disables the neutral safety ie. It will start in gear.
 
Early cars would have manual and auto difference because no safety switch on clutch pedal (which should be disconnected to save your thrust bearing in a occasionally use car). You can use the auto in a manual car just leave the blade connected to nothing.
Bob.are you sure it's not the single pin switch on the trans?
I would ground the terminal on the relay and try it for a while to see. Be careful though grounding it disables the neutral safety ie. It will start in gear.
No I’m not. I tried a relay from one of the cars I parted & I couldn’t get nothing. It needs a new relay anyway. Part of the restoration process. Just didn’t want to put on the wrong one.
 
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There are two different relays...
One for automatic and one for manual...
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If it is a manual car then "G" is folded over and attached to the case...
"G" is where the neutral safety switch yellow wire plugs into......
 
You want SR105, it is the correct one, is it also used for power windows?
SR102 will work but is the wrong form factor (different mounting tabs)

(SR106 is for manual trans)


Alan
 
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Well it went from bad to worse. I stopped by the parts store & picked up the 102 switch. It looks correct. Mounting wise & pole positions. I installed it & the car would click but that’s all. Checked the battery & it was weak ??? It’s only 6 months old & I had charged it last week. Put another good battery in & it made a strange buzzing noise. I looked over the wires & jiggled them. Went to try to start & the engine turned over good but did not fire. Then suddenly I see a lot of smoke. Turned the switch off & looked & it fried a aftermarket fuseable link a previous owner had installed. I have no idea what happened. Now with that wire burned up I get nothing.
 
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The fuseable link that burned connects to a medium blue wire that goes into the lower right bulkhead just below that brite green wire.
 
You’ve reached the point where historically i would’ve jumped it w a horn button and 5 feet of wire. Funny that start buttons are cool now and back then that fix was considered Mickey Mouse... good luck with the repair. I hate wiring issues.
 
You’ve reached the point where historically i would’ve jumped it w a horn button and 5 feet of wire. Funny that start buttons are cool now and back then that fix was considered Mickey Mouse... good luck with the repair. I hate wiring issues.
I love my starter button, took it from my dad when I moved out, he wasn't going to have anything old enough to use it on.
 
Looking at that butt splice to the fusible link, I'll wager at 50% odds THAT is your original problem. Butt splices come in two quality levels: BAD and UTTERLY USELESS. I recommend you use a connector which will permit you to undo the connection if needs be AND gives an ELECTRICALLY and MECHANICALLY SECURE CONNECTION. I like 3M Scotchlock wirenuts or split brass bolts taped with rubber tape, then cloth friction tape. You can always solder the connection and use shrink-wrap also.

I had a starter relayt issue in 2018. Turned out the original factory crimped connection had burned down to the LAST STRAND OF WIRE. I could get it to start with a jump only because the absurd amount of current then would momentarily get through the single strand of wire to engage the relay.

I put a new connector on and the old relay has worked splendidly ever since. If you want to install a new one, get Standard/Blue Streak. There are few good brands anymore..... maybe try an NOS one if you can snag it.
 
Looking at that butt splice to the fusible link, I'll wager at 50% odds THAT is your original problem. Butt splices come in two quality levels: BAD and UTTERLY USELESS. I recommend you use a connector which will permit you to undo the connection if needs be AND gives an ELECTRICALLY and MECHANICALLY SECURE CONNECTION. I like 3M Scotchlock wirenuts or split brass bolts taped with rubber tape, then cloth friction tape. You can always solder the connection and use shrink-wrap also.

I had a starter relayt issue in 2018. Turned out the original factory crimped connection had burned down to the LAST STRAND OF WIRE. I could get it to start with a jump only because the absurd amount of current then would momentarily get through the single strand of wire to engage the relay.

I put a new connector on and the old relay has worked splendidly ever since. If you want to install a new one, get Standard/Blue Streak. There are few good brands anymore..... maybe try an NOS one if you can snag it.
Good info. Thanks
 
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