74 Fury III Planning

jason99

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While I have plenty of basic mechanical things on my list that will come before either of these items I wanted to get some opinions about two things because I like to plan for the future.

Air Conditioning
The A/C hasn't worked since I purchased the car and at least part of the issue is one of the hoses appears to be patched by putting a larger hose over it with clamps. It gets hot here and ideally I'd like to have cool air for the summer. I'm aware of the A/C retrofit kits for more popular mopars (A/B/Es), but what are people doing with the A/C on their formals?

Four Barrel Upgrade
I have a stock 400 2 barrel setup. Is it worth anything to go up to a four barrel? Is the common path finding a factory four barrel manifold or are people going with 'performance' parts for this type of swap? What will I need besides the carb/manifold?


#edit
Visual on the questionable A/C
1D50D95F-5C05-4DA2-9675-88A28CF937AE.png
 
Last edited:
While I have plenty of basic mechanical things on my list that will come before either of these items I wanted to get some opinions about two things because I like to plan for the future.

Air Conditioning
The A/C hasn't worked since I purchased the car and at least part of the issue is one of the hoses appears to be patched by putting a larger hose over it with clamps. It gets hot here and ideally I'd like to have cool air for the summer. I'm aware of the A/C retrofit kits for more popular mopars (A/B/Es), but what are people doing with the A/C on their formals?

Four Barrel Upgrade
I have a stock 400 2 barrel setup. Is it worth anything to go up to a four barrel? Is the common path finding a factory four barrel manifold or are people going with 'performance' parts for this type of swap? What will I need besides the carb/manifold?


#edit
Visual on the questionable A/C
View attachment 343835
Wow, talk about your patch jobs on the A/C. You will definitely need a new hose assembly and a new filter drier. I would have the compressor checked out thoroughly since R134 Freon does not work well in the factory RV2 compressor. Their are many kits to change it over to a rotary type.
As for changing to a four barrel, the best route is the Edelbrock carb and intake. Make sure you get the throttle adapter so you can hook up the throttle linkage for the transmission.
 
Any pointers to where to get correct hoses? I’m just not familiar at all with A/C anything.
 
I like to add to the 4bbl upgrade.
I agree on the Eddy Performer intake and carb.
On their website it is called 383 Performer but fits the 400 no problem.
I have the same intake on my car.
I grounded off the name and painted it engine color do it "looks" stock,lol!
Get a carb with electric choke.
A 625 CFM is fine on a stock 400.
A 750 out of box may work with the leaner jets they are born with.
You say it gets hot where you are?
Well to help keep engine from boiling the gas right out of the carb block the exhaust heat crossover ports. You are there when swapping intakes.
Wrap some household insulation in tin foil and stuff between the turkey pan and intake.
If you have room, install a 1 inch spacer between carb and intake.
Altogether this helps hot starts and gain a few lbs of torque.
Just keep in mind factory tuning specs do not apply. Tune the motor to what it wants/likes.
The electric choke does its job on cold starts.
Just run 1 wire from the switched side of ballast wire (dark blue) to feed the choke.
Hope this helps.
 
This is all quite helpful, thank you.

@cbarge yes I'm in Atlanta GA so it is regularly 80-95F here in the summer. I have a Performer intake on an actual 383 in another car, so I'm familiar with it, although the carb is a Holley. This part you mention:
"Well to help keep engine from boiling the gas right out of the carb block the exhaust heat crossover ports. You are there when swapping intakes.
Wrap some household insulation in tin foil and stuff between the turkey pan and intake. "

These are two separate items you are suggesting, correct? The first is block the exhaust heat crossover ports which is a function of either the pan or the intake gasket used. The second is to further insulate the intake from the motor by putting insulation in the gap between the intake and the motor?
 
This is all quite helpful, thank you.

@cbarge yes I'm in Atlanta GA so it is regularly 80-95F here in the summer. I have a Performer intake on an actual 383 in another car, so I'm familiar with it, although the carb is a Holley. This part you mention:
"Well to help keep engine from boiling the gas right out of the carb block the exhaust heat crossover ports. You are there when swapping intakes.
Wrap some household insulation in tin foil and stuff between the turkey pan and intake. "

These are two separate items you are suggesting, correct? The first is block the exhaust heat crossover ports which is a function of either the pan or the intake gasket used. The second is to further insulate the intake from the motor by putting insulation in the gap between the intake and the motor?
Yes,2 separate items yet both work in conjunction to keep the heat away from the carb.
I had done both a few times in the past.
I usually cut up the old turkey pan and make blocks the shape of the ports and use hi-temp silicone to put them in place.
I lay the pan down first,then the tabs to block the ports,then intake.
That's why i suggested electric choke since the passage will be blocked
You can also use heat sheathing over the fuel line,too.
With the 1 inch spacer under the carb,I guarantee the carb will be 90 degress cooler than the rest of the engine.
The denser the fuel,the better the motor runs and start on first click of the key when hot. No perculation.
make sure you adjust the kickdown linkage properly after doing the intake/carb swap.
Cheers
 
Thanks for the tips. I have a vague recollection of blocking the crossovers on a car in the past. Does the insulation between the intake and the motor actually work better than just having the air flow through it for cooling?
 
Thanks for the tips. I have a vague recollection of blocking the crossovers on a car in the past. Does the insulation between the intake and the motor actually work better than just having the air flow through it for cooling?
The factory did put some there in the past.
Chrysler mainly put it there for engine noise but every little bit helps,IMHO
Pulled a lot of the factory stuff outa there in the past.
The cooling aspect work in theory if you had a hi-rise or tunnel ram intake,LOL!!
As you may already know,the aluminum intake does not hold heat like the cast iron lump.
 
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